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Old 11-05-2010, 03:17 PM   #85
WeeZee
 
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Can't knock Roto-Fab, Im getting one when I get my 2011 SS next spring !!!
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Old 11-11-2010, 12:52 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeeZee View Post
Can't knock Roto-Fab, Im getting one when I get my 2011 SS next spring !!!
Thanks for the vote of confidence! There are lots of choices out there, so we're happy so many of you have chosen our intake system. We very much appreciate all of the support from Roto-fab owners...and "soon-to-be" customers.
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Old 11-15-2010, 08:18 PM   #87
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You can't get the intake in Real Carbon Fiber? I was also wondering if the tubing and hoses come in Inferno Orange??

And whats the difference between Dry Filter and an Oiled Filter?
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Old 11-15-2010, 09:19 PM   #88
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QUOTE=Jabs;2549512]You can't get the intake in Real Carbon Fiber? I was also wondering if the tubing and hoses come in Inferno Orange??

And whats the difference between Dry Filter and an Oiled Filter?[/QUOTE]

First, here is an explanation of the oil vs dry filters-



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Roto-fab CAI, dry filter vs. oil filter
We continue to receive many questions about this as we offer our intakes with a dry or oil type filter. Both filters are American made and will last the life of your vehicle, although they do require routine maintenance. Our oil filters are made by S & B filters and our dry filters are made by AFE. We will summarize the maintenance of each as well as the advantages/disadvantages of each.

Oil filter-

With oil type filters the main concern tends to be the possibility of oil entering the air stream and contaminating the MAF sensor. This is a legitimate concern and can happen if the filter is over oiled. Our oil filters do come pre-oiled, so you don't have to worry about oiling for 10K or so.
The first step in maintaining the filter is to clean it thoroughly with the solution provided in a filter service kit. Service kits are available through us or simply buy one at a local parts store. Allow the filter to air dry thoroughly before the oiling process. When it isn't possible to meter the amount of oil being applied to the filter (such as with oil in a spray can) it's better to oil the filter very sparingly leaving some bare areas. Allow this oil to "wick" outward for about 5 minutes, then repeat the process-again oiling sparingly.

Benefits of the oil filter

More power-this filter flows more air which means it makes slightly more power. Strongly recommended with modifications such as heads/cam, S/C, etc.

Less $- with our intake systems, the oil filter is standard and the dry is a $12 option


Dry filter-

Dry filters have no possibility of contaminating the MAF sensor with oil-one less thing to worry about in life! Also, they are a little easier to maintain in that you don't need to have filter oil and a specific cleaning solution. AFE does have service kits available. However, you can give them a quick clean-up with a shop vac or lightly knocking filter against something. The filter can be washed in a cleaning solution such as laundry detergent. Allow the filter to air dry! This is a cotton element and will shrink just like a cotton t-shirt if heat is applied. When this happens, the element can actually pull away from the end cap.

Benefits of the dry filter-

Piece of mind-no concern about oil on the sensor.

Better air flow than the stock air element (although less than oil filters)

Slightly more efficient filtration than the oil filter

Some like the white filter appearance over the traditional maroon

To summarize, if power is everything to you-go with the oil filter. The oil filter gives you the most power at a lower cost. If you want good performance, superior filtration and don't want to worry about the whole oil issue, the dry filter is a better choice for you. I hope this helps you make a more informed decision and thank you for considering our products

[IMG]



We use the carbon fiber finish instead of real carbon fiber because it gives the appearance of CF while maintaining the qualities of our original pieces. For example our inlet elbow has a brass fitting molding in it for the breather hose. Also, we mold it thick for slower heat transfer and a more rigid clamping surface. We are able to maintain these characteristics when we add the finish to our existing pieces.
We don't have orange hoses. Some customers have painted our plastic elbow; however, we don't paint them ourselves. For IOM cars we do offer the air box painted body color. Then you can go with the CF finish tube or a polished stainless tube if you want something with more color than our standard black tube.

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Old 11-30-2010, 08:58 PM   #89
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http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?k...=1&output=html

This s/sheet seems to imply that the Roto CAI loses 0.8 hp. Am I reading gthe data results correctly?
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Old 11-30-2010, 09:01 PM   #90
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What is Roto Fab's view on after market air mass sensor upgrades? They advertise that your CAI performance will improve more than wo the AMS upgrade? After searching C5 site, I've read a lot of horror stories. Just curious.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roto-fab 1 View Post
QUOTE=Jabs;2549512]You can't get the intake in Real Carbon Fiber? I was also wondering if the tubing and hoses come in Inferno Orange??

And whats the difference between Dry Filter and an Oiled Filter?
First, here is an explanation of the oil vs dry filters-



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Roto-fab CAI, dry filter vs. oil filter
We continue to receive many questions about this as we offer our intakes with a dry or oil type filter. Both filters are American made and will last the life of your vehicle, although they do require routine maintenance. Our oil filters are made by S & B filters and our dry filters are made by AFE. We will summarize the maintenance of each as well as the advantages/disadvantages of each.

Oil filter-

With oil type filters the main concern tends to be the possibility of oil entering the air stream and contaminating the MAF sensor. This is a legitimate concern and can happen if the filter is over oiled. Our oil filters do come pre-oiled, so you don't have to worry about oiling for 10K or so.
The first step in maintaining the filter is to clean it thoroughly with the solution provided in a filter service kit. Service kits are available through us or simply buy one at a local parts store. Allow the filter to air dry thoroughly before the oiling process. When it isn't possible to meter the amount of oil being applied to the filter (such as with oil in a spray can) it's better to oil the filter very sparingly leaving some bare areas. Allow this oil to "wick" outward for about 5 minutes, then repeat the process-again oiling sparingly.

Benefits of the oil filter

More power-this filter flows more air which means it makes slightly more power. Strongly recommended with modifications such as heads/cam, S/C, etc.

Less $- with our intake systems, the oil filter is standard and the dry is a $12 option


Dry filter-

Dry filters have no possibility of contaminating the MAF sensor with oil-one less thing to worry about in life! Also, they are a little easier to maintain in that you don't need to have filter oil and a specific cleaning solution. AFE does have service kits available. However, you can give them a quick clean-up with a shop vac or lightly knocking filter against something. The filter can be washed in a cleaning solution such as laundry detergent. Allow the filter to air dry! This is a cotton element and will shrink just like a cotton t-shirt if heat is applied. When this happens, the element can actually pull away from the end cap.

Benefits of the dry filter-

Piece of mind-no concern about oil on the sensor.

Better air flow than the stock air element (although less than oil filters)

Slightly more efficient filtration than the oil filter

Some like the white filter appearance over the traditional maroon

To summarize, if power is everything to you-go with the oil filter. The oil filter gives you the most power at a lower cost. If you want good performance, superior filtration and don't want to worry about the whole oil issue, the dry filter is a better choice for you. I hope this helps you make a more informed decision and thank you for considering our products

[IMG]



We use the carbon fiber finish instead of real carbon fiber because it gives the appearance of CF while maintaining the qualities of our original pieces. For example our inlet elbow has a brass fitting molding in it for the breather hose. Also, we mold it thick for slower heat transfer and a more rigid clamping surface. We are able to maintain these characteristics when we add the finish to our existing pieces.
We don't have orange hoses. Some customers have painted our plastic elbow; however, we don't paint them ourselves. For IOM cars we do offer the air box painted body color. Then you can go with the CF finish tube or a polished stainless tube if you want something with more color than our standard black tube.

[/QUOTE]
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Old 11-30-2010, 09:49 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trekmanone View Post
http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?k...=1&output=html

This s/sheet seems to imply that the Roto CAI loses 0.8 hp. Am I reading gthe data results correctly?
If you look at the knock, you will see we had 3.4 at 6k RPM. I haven't even looked at the curves if they are posted, but that would be where our power numbers went.

It's important to note that plenty of people including us have dyno tested and saw good gains without the knock. Also, if you tune this is no longer an issue. If you look at many of the high HP cars on this forum you will see our intake frequently.

Our entire system has the qualities that are necessary to achieve good power; however, if timing is pulled because of knock, none of that matters.
We have talked with Ted and plan to do more testing with him addressing this very subject. We will have more information on it in the upcoming weeks.

As for MAF sensors, we haven't tested with anything but the stock one.
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Old 12-01-2010, 12:32 AM   #92
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I'm very interested in this because I really don't want to tune right now due to warranty! If there is something that can be done without tuning to rectify the timing pulling that would be great. The main reason for going with the Roto-Fab is that I was told that no tuning would be neccessary! Am I in danger of any engine damage at WOT with this condition? I'm also running with high flow cats so I worry about running lean at WOT!
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Old 12-01-2010, 04:35 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssmike View Post
I'm very interested in this because I really don't want to tune right now due to warranty! If there is something that can be done without tuning to rectify the timing pulling that would be great. The main reason for going with the Roto-Fab is that I was told that no tuning would be neccessary! Am I in danger of any engine damage at WOT with this condition? I'm also running with high flow cats so I worry about running lean at WOT!
From what I've seen, I highly doubt the knock retard seen in Ted's test is the norm. I am running this unit and my car has been on a dyno. That being said, the car had ZERO knock retard before it was tuned. I like the Roto-Fab setup a lot and would recommend it to anyone.
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Old 12-01-2010, 07:44 AM   #94
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Thanks! That's good to hear! I've never had it on a dyno so I don't know what it's doing other than seat of pants! Maybe I'll dyno it this Spring to see how it is performing.
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Old 12-01-2010, 03:54 PM   #95
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I've had my Roto Fab for almost a year and I love it, I wouldn't change it for nothing.
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Old 12-27-2010, 10:39 AM   #96
Roto-fab 1

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike2ss View Post
I've had my Roto Fab for almost a year and I love it, I wouldn't change it for nothing.
With all of the choices out there, your statement is a great thing to hear! Our best source of advertising is actual testimony from the ones that have our products. Thanks
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Old 12-27-2010, 10:46 AM   #97
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Here is a Roto-fab customer post from another thread. This is tuned, but check out the torque!
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Old 12-27-2010, 10:52 AM   #98
JEFF2010SSMANUAL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roto-fab 1 View Post
QUOTE=Jabs;2549512]You can't get the intake in Real Carbon Fiber? I was also wondering if the tubing and hoses come in Inferno Orange??

And whats the difference between Dry Filter and an Oiled Filter?
First, here is an explanation of the oil vs dry filters-



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Roto-fab CAI, dry filter vs. oil filter
We continue to receive many questions about this as we offer our intakes with a dry or oil type filter. Both filters are American made and will last the life of your vehicle, although they do require routine maintenance. Our oil filters are made by S & B filters and our dry filters are made by AFE. We will summarize the maintenance of each as well as the advantages/disadvantages of each.

Oil filter-

With oil type filters the main concern tends to be the possibility of oil entering the air stream and contaminating the MAF sensor. This is a legitimate concern and can happen if the filter is over oiled. Our oil filters do come pre-oiled, so you don't have to worry about oiling for 10K or so.
The first step in maintaining the filter is to clean it thoroughly with the solution provided in a filter service kit. Service kits are available through us or simply buy one at a local parts store. Allow the filter to air dry thoroughly before the oiling process. When it isn't possible to meter the amount of oil being applied to the filter (such as with oil in a spray can) it's better to oil the filter very sparingly leaving some bare areas. Allow this oil to "wick" outward for about 5 minutes, then repeat the process-again oiling sparingly.

Benefits of the oil filter

More power-this filter flows more air which means it makes slightly more power. Strongly recommended with modifications such as heads/cam, S/C, etc.

Less $- with our intake systems, the oil filter is standard and the dry is a $12 option


Dry filter-

Dry filters have no possibility of contaminating the MAF sensor with oil-one less thing to worry about in life! Also, they are a little easier to maintain in that you don't need to have filter oil and a specific cleaning solution. AFE does have service kits available. However, you can give them a quick clean-up with a shop vac or lightly knocking filter against something. The filter can be washed in a cleaning solution such as laundry detergent. Allow the filter to air dry! This is a cotton element and will shrink just like a cotton t-shirt if heat is applied. When this happens, the element can actually pull away from the end cap.

Benefits of the dry filter-

Piece of mind-no concern about oil on the sensor.

Better air flow than the stock air element (although less than oil filters)

Slightly more efficient filtration than the oil filter

Some like the white filter appearance over the traditional maroon

To summarize, if power is everything to you-go with the oil filter. The oil filter gives you the most power at a lower cost. If you want good performance, superior filtration and don't want to worry about the whole oil issue, the dry filter is a better choice for you. I hope this helps you make a more informed decision and thank you for considering our products

[IMG]



We use the carbon fiber finish instead of real carbon fiber because it gives the appearance of CF while maintaining the qualities of our original pieces. For example our inlet elbow has a brass fitting molding in it for the breather hose. Also, we mold it thick for slower heat transfer and a more rigid clamping surface. We are able to maintain these characteristics when we add the finish to our existing pieces.
We don't have orange hoses. Some customers have painted our plastic elbow; however, we don't paint them ourselves. For IOM cars we do offer the air box painted body color. Then you can go with the CF finish tube or a polished stainless tube if you want something with more color than our standard black tube.

[/QUOTE]




WOW your engine looks
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