AC/Heater Blender Door - Page 7 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

andyrose98 · 05-27-2020, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CamaroFred

One valve is all you need. Any kind for fluids works, even the cheapest ones.
Don't buy one for natural gas, those use grease as a seal and hot coolant will flush that out.

I know this is an old discussion, but it's the problem I'm dealing with now. Before I go buying parts, I wanted to verify that this method really works with no negative repercussions. And is only one actually needed? Does it matter which hose I install a valve on? (It seems to me that stopping the flow on either side would have the same effect, but I'm far from an expert.)

uvraise · 05-28-2020, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andyrose98

I know this is an old discussion, but it's the problem I'm dealing with now. Before I go buying parts, I wanted to verify that this method really works with no negative repercussions. And is only one actually needed? Does it matter which hose I install a valve on? (It seems to me that stopping the flow on either side would have the same effect, but I'm far from an expert.)

Just reading your post. I'm the OP of this thread. About two months ago, I fixed the blend door, as others have done, by cutting into the side of where the actuator is located. There are many threads on this fix. I've posted one on my experience. It took me a few hours, some patience and about $25 in parts. The fix works great and leaves the repaired section in a state to do a much easier replacement in the future, if needed.

andyrose98 · 05-28-2020, 06:29 PM

I was planning (dreading) to go that route before I found this thread. I was really intimidated by the fear of making the cut just right without damaging the heater core, and the idea that the new plastic door could break all over again just made it worse. After reading the whole thread (which I hadn't done when I made my first entry) I've decided to go with two valves and the H pipe. I've priced out the parts and it's going to cost just under $100. That's well worth it to me to not have to cram myself down into the floorboards for a fix that may not be permanent anyway.

andyrose98 · 06-06-2020, 07:21 PM

Today was the day! I only installed the 5/8" valve because the other one looked like it was going to be too loose a fit. I may buy a different valve, but I think it's going to be ok for now. I only took a short test drive, but the AC is good and cold now.

InFiD3ViL · 06-06-2020, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andyrose98

Today was the day! I only installed the 5/8" valve because the other one looked like it was going to be too loose a fit. I may buy a different valve, but I think it's going to be ok for now. I only took a short test drive, but the AC is good and cold now.

Awesome. Glad to see more people trying other solutions. Good part about a valved system is that you can occasionally open the valves to 'flush' the heater core with fresh fluid vs. a closed fix.

andyrose98 · 06-07-2020, 11:22 AM

For me, it's not just a seasonal thing either. there are plenty of days where I need the heat in the morning and the air conditioning in the afternoon. I can just open the valve before I leave for work in the morning, and close the valve before I start my drive home in the afternoon.

Valkyrie14 · 09-13-2020, 06:20 PM

So I didn’t have AC this summer. And now it is colder I am finding out I don’t have heat either. I put in a LSA blower this winter.

I tested the heater core hose this summer with a vice grip and the AC seemed colder. So I am thinking blend door is the or one of the issues. The bypass seems to work for restoring AC, but what about fixing heat?

Also, I think this is a dumb question, but is it possible that I flipped the coolant hoses when I reinstalled?

sixty9fordkiller · 09-13-2020, 06:22 PM

the heater hoses are 5/8 and 3/4

it would be pretty hard to mix them up

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

BuddyLee · 09-13-2020, 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uvraise

Well, my suspicions were correct. I closed off both the supply and return lines to the heater core with valves. It worked like a charm! I'm now getting 46 degree air from the vents as opposed to the 80 I was getting. The temp here is now 91 degrees out, so looking at the chart I found online, the temp from the vents is a little better than average. In the fall, I'll just open the valves.

Did you or could you post a Youtube on how to do this?

Valkyrie14 · 09-13-2020, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Valkyrie14

So I didn’t have AC this summer. And now it is colder I am finding out I don’t have heat either. I put in a LSA blower this winter.

I tested the heater core hose this summer with a vice grip and the AC seemed colder. So I am thinking blend door is the or one of the issues. The bypass seems to work for restoring AC, but what about fixing heat?

Also, I think this is a dumb question, but is it possible that I flipped the coolant hoses when I reinstalled?

So, I must not have switched the hoses, but am I stuck with fixing the blend door to restore heat? Or will the bypass work for restoring heat?

06-06-2020, 07:21 PM	#88
andyrose98 Drives: '12 1LT, needs work Join Date: May 2020 Location: Amelia, OH Posts: 9	Today was the day! I only installed the 5/8" valve because the other one looked like it was going to be too loose a fit. I may buy a different valve, but I think it's going to be ok for now. I only took a short test drive, but the AC is good and cold now. Attached Images

09-13-2020, 06:20 PM	#91
Valkyrie14 Valkyrie14 Drives: Chevrolet Camaro SS Join Date: Mar 2020 Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin Posts: 962	So I didn’t have AC this summer. And now it is colder I am finding out I don’t have heat either. I put in a LSA blower this winter. I tested the heater core hose this summer with a vice grip and the AC seemed colder. So I am thinking blend door is the or one of the issues. The bypass seems to work for restoring AC, but what about fixing heat? Also, I think this is a dumb question, but is it possible that I flipped the coolant hoses when I reinstalled? __________________ 2014 SS LS3/LSA Supercharger, 10% Super Damper, 2.55 upper, AGP Dual Pump, ID 1050 injectors, Pegasus solid rear cradle bushings, LT Headers, Roto-Fab CAI, Elite E2 catch can, E85 corn fed, 160 Thermostat, Monster Twin Disk, MGW Short Throw shifter, Tick Clutch Master Cylinder, HP Tuners, JL Audio system.

09-13-2020, 06:22 PM	#92
sixty9fordkiller Donkey Dick Cam Camaro Drives: 2010 2SS/RS LS3 M6 Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 1,998	the heater hoses are 5/8 and 3/4 it would be pretty hard to mix them up Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk __________________ Bone Stock

05-28-2020, 06:29 PM	#87
andyrose98 Drives: '12 1LT, needs work Join Date: May 2020 Location: Amelia, OH Posts: 9	I was planning (dreading) to go that route before I found this thread. I was really intimidated by the fear of making the cut just right without damaging the heater core, and the idea that the new plastic door could break all over again just made it worse. After reading the whole thread (which I hadn't done when I made my first entry) I've decided to go with two valves and the H pipe. I've priced out the parts and it's going to cost just under $100. That's well worth it to me to not have to cram myself down into the floorboards for a fix that may not be permanent anyway.

06-07-2020, 11:22 AM	#90
andyrose98 Drives: '12 1LT, needs work Join Date: May 2020 Location: Amelia, OH Posts: 9	For me, it's not just a seasonal thing either. there are plenty of days where I need the heat in the morning and the air conditioning in the afternoon. I can just open the valve before I leave for work in the morning, and close the valve before I start my drive home in the afternoon.