JANNETTY RACING V8 CAI TEST PART 2 RESULTS

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by SummitWhiteLS

I agree with you Frank. The people at JRE are great, but the fact is that they did not test the SLP Blackwing.

They can certainly speculate on it, but that's it.

After independent dyno testing R8cerX stated "at least for now we know the SLP CAI works like a champ".

I'm thinking about going to a local dyno shop to do back-to-back testing and put an end to all the speculation ...

SLP was Honest and told us STRAIGHT UP, don't bother testing the black wing only, it won't make any power.

Looks cool though.

We did test the SLP stage 2 and the data is included in the results.

No speculation just Facts.

Ted.

[NickJRE]

The word from Kevin @ SLP was, Don't bother testing it because the gains are not going to be much.

So therefore they didn't send one for testing.

[FRANK121]

I was just wondering ... it would use the same stock intake scoop the Airaid uses, it would already have an enclosed top like the CAI, it would use a high flow filter and if insulated should keep the temperature down plus it would use a straight shot hose like the rest?
What am I missing? Not arguing, just trying to get the best for my limited budget.

[x626xBlack]

The problems with flex tubing and home made designs are not that they do not provide colder air but rather improper design causes turbulence impeding the delivery of the colder air.

[Halltech]

Originally Posted by NickJRE

Here's a link to the ADM Race Scoop on our site ADM Race Scoop, I know a couple people requested it. We have a bunch of them on the way.

I suspect Halltech's kit would produce the same results as the CAI w/ADM Race Scoop. I was very impressed with the Halltech kit.

Back in 1999, we made the Halltech TRIC intake which was a bottom breather, collecting air directly from the chin spoiler on the C5. The TRIC mad around 10 RWHP on the dyno, but when it rained, the filter got soaked. This did not cause any issues for the first year or so, but eventually where standing water and more torrential rains came in CA and other states, we had three hydrolocked incidents within one month. One was likely fraud, but the other two were friends, so it is unlikely they were lying.

We immediately discontinued this intake and converted back to an underhood version which was a hot air breather, but safe from rain.

Hydrolock is real, but does not happen very often, but like unemployment, nothing is more depressing. The other issue is that, aside from the hydrolock risk, the filter self cleans during rain storms, and guess where the dirt, grime and mud end up?

I would not recommend using this with our intake, but some folks never drive in the rain, and for those guys, this would be a sweet mod for sure, but 10 more HP can be gleaned through tuning, and is a lot safer.

Maybe ADM has some test information they could share in this regard that would refute what I think. I would be glad to listen to their side.

Jim

[axis]

Originally Posted by FRANK121

I was just wondering ... it would use the same stock intake scoop the Airaid uses, it would already have an enclosed top like the CAI, it would use a high flow filter and if insulated should keep the temperature down plus it would use a straight shot hose like the rest?
What am I missing? Not arguing, just trying to get the best for my limited budget.

Take a look at the stock tube and box design, then look at all the others. You'll notice a few things right off the bat. First, the bottom is open on all the other boxes and the OEM one is closed. The only air that can get in, is via the snorkle. Yes that means that most all of the air is coming from outside the engine bay but it's right beside radiator and it's entirely too small. Second is the size of the intake tube itself. While it has to be at OEM specs in the MAF area, a calculated transition into and out of that area makes a difference. In the case of the Halltech, it has a HUGE velocity stack built into intake tube. A few others have some smoothed edges or rely on the velocity stack built into the filter, but nothing as pronounced as the Halltech Yellowjacket. I believe this along with the one piece intake tube is what makes the Halltech as good as it is. The OEM setup boasts nothing like this. You have to know that in order to make air flow extremely well, it has to have smooth surfaces. Any break in the tube will cause turbulence and while it may not be much, every little bit counts.

[x626xBlack]

Originally Posted by Halltech

Back in 1999, we made the Halltech TRIC intake which was a bottom breather, collecting air directly from the chin spoiler on the C5. The TRIC mad around 10 RWHP on the dyno, but when it rained, the filter got soaked.
Jim

Did the filter get soaked because the Filter was at the bottom or because the Intake was at the bottom. I do know that the filter for the Fastlane Pipeline is located at the bottom and I could understand this happening.

Meaning once the filter is soaked you have a water lock to the intake with no breaks to release the pressure or let gravity let the water flow back out..

The CAI filter for example is in the Factory intake location, meaning you would have to draw a hell of a lot of head to fill the area between the scoop and the air box, then the airbox would have to fill before you suck water directly into the tube to the intake... <---- unlikely unless you drove it under water and intended to make it happen.... However I think that may be the least of your worries at that point.. LOL

The Yellow jacket seems to have the same design as the the CAI...


Actually Google was my friend and that is exactly the way the TRIC was... Like the Pipeline.. I can understand how you could draw "straw" water right in. Judging from the look in this picture, it may have had nothing to do with the filter getting soaked "per sey" as much as it had to do with water being as high as the snorkel opening... making the filter moot... Just sucking in clean water.

[x626xBlack]

Just ordered the CAI from Jannetty... Best shipping rates I saw also! Beat CAI by a few bucks.

[Halltech]

Originally Posted by x626xBlack

Did the filter get soaked because the Filter was at the bottom or because the Intake was at the bottom. I do know that the filter for the Fastlane Pipeline is located at the bottom and I could understand this happening.

Meaning once the filter is soaked you have a water lock to the intake with no breaks to release the pressure or let gravity let the water flow back out..

The CAI filter for example is in the Factory intake location, meaning you would have to draw a hell of a lot of head to fill the area between the scoop and the air box, then the airbox would have to fill before you suck water directly into the tube to the intake... <---- unlikely unless you drove it under water and intended to make it happen.... However I think that may be the least of your worries at that point.. LOL

The Yellow jacket seems to have the same design as the the CAI...


Actually Google was my friend and that is exactly the way the TRIC was... Like the Pipeline.. I can understand how you could draw "straw" water right in. Judging from the look in this picture, it may have had nothing to do with the filter getting soaked "per sey" as much as it had to do with water being as high as the snorkel opening... making the filter moot... Just sucking in clean water.

The TRIC locked the two motors due to puddles splashing over the filter and the Big Gulp theory. Rain alone did not effect it.

Jim

[Doc]

Thanks for doing this Ted and team! I have the CAI which I'd ordered based on your first test last year. I'm pleasantly surprised to see it's still a top performer compared to the newer intakes. The results from the addition of the ADM scoop is an even nicer surprise.

How much benefit would this combo see from a tune?

[Jekyll-N-Hyde]

I dont see why you couldnt use the ADM air scoop with any aftermarket CAI.
The ADM airscoop deos just as the name says it does it SCOOPS the air towards the Cai Filter.

IF any of you put the adm scoop on your CAI and get water on the Filter


You need to quit driving in high waters.

if I were to stand in front of my car ( im 6ft tall ) the scoop is located about midway between my ankles and my knee's on the car and the ADM "4 filter is about where the button on my jeans is located at my waist.

There is no way for water to get to this Filter and if it did then your whole lower Valance would be completely under water.

( in which you shouldnt be driving in high water anyways )


Basically all this scoop is doing is giving a air passage way for the air to shoot up towards the filter.

By the way if your intake is like ADM's or im sure CAI's and you use the air scoop if you get water on your filter it will affect the headlights before the filter as they are a tad bit lower.




Halltech made there Cai the way they thought it needed to be used if they wanted a air scoop on there CAI they would have added one.

ADM ( Andy & Pat ) deisgned the ADM scoop to work with there unit.

[Sack Rat 2SS]

Originally Posted by BackinBlackSS/RS

From the videos on ADM website it does not show having to take off the bumper to install the race scoop, but it seems everyone is under the impression that the bumper must come off. Can we get a clarification? Thanks!

Just to reiterate, you do NOT have to remove the front facia to install the ADM Intake Scoop. The pic you see earlier in this thread is just to visually show its location. You do remove the Left front wheel and plastic inner fender liner (5 push pins & 5 screws) to gain access to the plastic deflector that you trim; and to remove the factory washer bottle (3 bolts). Then you mount the scoop and install the fender liner and wheel. 1 hour labor. Now if you add a heritage grill the facia comes off and much easier to install ADM Race Scoop at the same time. Ha Ha

[ssmike]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

Tuning will bring the Rotofab right up there with the best of them, this test was done without any tuning, this is noted on the spread sheet.

Rotofab is a fine product and we use them in many of our builds per customer request.

Ted.

Ted, I also have the Roto-Fab and I'm concerned with the a/f ratio and timing numbers without tune. Would I be better off replacing it with the CAI with no tune or get a tune with the Roto-Fab? I've been shying away from tuning for warranty purposes but I'm worried between the Roto-Fab and high flow cats that I might be running lean at WOT. What is your advise? Thanks!

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by ssmike

Ted, I also have the Roto-Fab and I'm concerned with the a/f ratio and timing numbers without tune. Would I be better off replacing it with the CAI with no tune or get a tune with the Roto-Fab? I've been shying away from tuning for warranty purposes but I'm worried between the Roto-Fab and high flow cats that I might be running lean at WOT. What is your advise? Thanks!

Your Missing WAY too much Fun without a Tune, Keep the Rotofab, Nice Piece and get a Tune, SCT FTW!

Ted.