Elite Engineering Catch Can Problem: Car won't start and left me stranded - Page 8 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

AG454 · 07-06-2011, 02:24 PM

Please send me the new stud, thank you.

Darth_Emma · 07-06-2011, 02:41 PM

I'm assuming your first solution will work on an L99 as well as an LS3. Is that correct?

Also, I have a maggie on my car. Will it work with that?

I will pm you with my address to send me the new stud.

Thanks.

molsonbrador · 07-07-2011, 07:37 PM

PM sent.
Thanks Steve. Top notch company.

Nomad · 07-07-2011, 09:13 PM

Had to return my intake to stock. PM sent. Excellent customer service. Well done Steve.

Mr. Notorious · 07-07-2011, 09:23 PM

Good job coming on and taking car of the customers

Avalnch · 07-07-2011, 10:51 PM

The OEM bolt was obviously not designed to handle any load and the contant vibration of the motor, coupled with the weight on the bolt caused it to fatigue and sheer.

Unless the bolt strength is upgraded, all OEM bolts will likely fail within the same time frame.

Elite Engineering · 07-08-2011, 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by molsonbrador

PM sent.
Thanks Steve. Top notch company.

Thanks all! I've always said the true measure of a good company is not only in the quality of their products, but how they react and handle a problem if one should arise.

Steve

2010 L99 · 07-08-2011, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

Thanks all! I've always said the true measure of a good company is not only in the quality of their products, but how they react and handle a problem if one should arise.

Steve

Darth_Emma · 07-08-2011, 03:08 PM

I'm curious as tp how you tighten the new stud into the engine block.

The stock hex nut stud has a hex nut attached to it that we use to tighten or remove it from the engine block.

The new stud you provide has no hex nut permanently attached to it. So, how do we tighten in down properly into the engine block before putting round wire and hex nut on it? (Did that make sense?)

I am anxious to get the new stud because I feel like I'm living on borrowed time right now.

AG454 · 07-08-2011, 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darth_Emma

I'm curious as tp how you tighten the new stud into the engine block.

The stock hex nut stud has a hex nut attached to it that we use to tighten or remove it from the engine block.

The new stud you provide has no hex nut permanently attached to it. So, how do we tighten in down properly into the engine block before putting round wire and hex nut on it? (Did that make sense?)

I am anxious to get the new stud because I feel like I'm living on borrowed time right now.

You will have to put two nuts on the stud, the original nut first then another nut and tighten them up against each other with about 3/4" of stud left out. Then tighten to the block and then back out the last nut while holding down the first with a open end wrench. Then install the Elite rod like before.

Elite Engineering · 07-08-2011, 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darth_Emma

I'm curious as tp how you tighten the new stud into the engine block.

The stock hex nut stud has a hex nut attached to it that we use to tighten or remove it from the engine block.

The new stud you provide has no hex nut permanently attached to it. So, how do we tighten in down properly into the engine block before putting round wire and hex nut on it? (Did that make sense?)

I am anxious to get the new stud because I feel like I'm living on borrowed time right now.

My original thought was once the stud is threaded into the block and the grounding loop/strap is installed, the Hex nut would act as a jam nut to keep everything tight. With that said, the stud we are supplying DOES have a recess at the end for an Allen socket. So all should be good!

Steve

Darth_Emma · 07-08-2011, 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

My original thought was once the stud is threaded into the block and the grounding loop/strap is installed, the Hex nut would act as a jam nut to keep everything tight. With that said, the stud we are supplying DOES have a recess at the end for an Allen socket. So all should be good!

Steve

That sounds like a great solution. Thanks for the reply.

molsonbrador · 07-08-2011, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darth_Emma

That sounds like a great solution. Thanks for the reply.

Just remember the split/ lock washer and all should be good. The stud would have to (unthread?) itself through the lockdown nut and the aluminum rod at the same time, a feat I'd like to see...on someone elses non- Camaro.

Darth_Emma · 07-08-2011, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by molsonbrador

Just remember the split/ lock washer and all should be good. The stud would have to (unthread?) itself through the lockdown nut and the aluminum rod at the same time, a feat I'd like to see...on someone elses non- Camaro.

What split/lock washer? I don't see one of those in post 100.

07-06-2011, 02:24 PM	#99
AG454 I am not "Fast & Furious" Drives: 2010 Camaro LSX454 1LE Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Greeley Colorado Posts: 1,040 View My Garage	Please send me the new stud, thank you. __________________ The day I take a bend too fast Judgement that could be my last I'll be wiped right off the slate Don't wait up 'cause I'll be late, I'll be late

07-07-2011, 07:37 PM	#101
molsonbrador Drives: 2010 Camaro SS, 2018 Colorado Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: NC Posts: 2,207	PM sent. Thanks Steve. Top notch company. Last edited by molsonbrador; 07-07-2011 at 09:09 PM.

07-07-2011, 09:13 PM	#102
Nomad Drives: '11 2SS/RS RJT M6 Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Grounded in the 'Shwa Posts: 478 View My Garage	Had to return my intake to stock. PM sent. Excellent customer service. Well done Steve. __________________ Vararam CAI, Elite Engineering Catch Can, Separate Clutch Fluid Reservoir, Ghost Armor Full Protection Package, Chromed Turn Signal Bulbs, RPI Stealth Splash Guards, Skip Shift Eliminator, Defenderworx Chrome Bowtie Inserts, Pfadt Trailing Arms, Camaro Decal Store CGM Hood Spears with "376ci" custom text, Billet Depot/Drake Underhood Polished Caps, CGM Lug Nut Decals, Pedders Front Radius Rod Inserts, JacFab Front License Plate Bracket

07-07-2011, 10:51 PM	#104
Avalnch Drives: Rally Yellow Camaro+Avalanche Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Vancouver Posts: 1,110	The OEM bolt was obviously not designed to handle any load and the contant vibration of the motor, coupled with the weight on the bolt caused it to fatigue and sheer. Unless the bolt strength is upgraded, all OEM bolts will likely fail within the same time frame. __________________ Vengeance Kaotik Cam, C.A.I., ARH LT, Pypes Cat Back, ZL1 Shifter+2012LS3VERT bushing, Quantum Brake Ducts, JDP Tow Hook Scorch Yellow Trim Kit, Shark Fin, AAC DRLs+ABLs+SMDs, ZTA Rear Spoiler, R.Y. 1LE Splitter. Pfadt coilovers, camber plates, trailing arms, Pegasus Solid Subframe. Pedders ZL1 barz, radius arm & steering rack bushings. BMR adjustable toe-rods. Hotchkis Max Chassis Brace. ZL1 GMPP Driveline Upgrade. TurnOne P/S pump. CTS-V 6 pistons. 447 HP @ 6180 RPM / 418 TQ @ 5100 RPM

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
PQs Camaro [COTW 9/20/10]	PQ	Member Car Journals	5675	09-01-2024 08:48 AM
DIY: LS3 Camshaft Install (a lot of pictures, may take a moment to load)	robertway	Camaro DIY & HOW-TO instructions & discussions	313	12-16-2023 07:53 PM
Pedders Suspension Benchmark Track Testing and New Jersey Track Day	Info@PeddersUSA.com	USA - NY / NJ / PA	35	10-26-2009 06:20 PM
#4768 - Delivered and Made Ready the Right Way!	Number_9	5th Gen Camaro SS LS LT General Discussions	62	07-16-2009 03:42 AM
09 Mustang GT and 09 Challenger R/T test drives	CamaroSpike23	General Automotive + Other Cars Discussion	19	04-10-2009 05:27 PM

07-06-2011, 02:41 PM	#100
Darth_Emma Psssssssssshhhhhhhhhhhhh! Drives: under contruction Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Marysville, Ohio Posts: 12,996 View My Garage	I'm assuming your first solution will work on an L99 as well as an LS3. Is that correct? Also, I have a maggie on my car. Will it work with that? I will pm you with my address to send me the new stud. Thanks.

07-07-2011, 09:23 PM	#103
Mr. Notorious Drives: 2011 2SS/RS Summit White :) Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: New York Posts: 60	Good job coming on and taking car of the customers

07-08-2011, 03:08 PM	#107
Darth_Emma Psssssssssshhhhhhhhhhhhh! Drives: under contruction Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Marysville, Ohio Posts: 12,996 View My Garage	I'm curious as tp how you tighten the new stud into the engine block. The stock hex nut stud has a hex nut attached to it that we use to tighten or remove it from the engine block. The new stud you provide has no hex nut permanently attached to it. So, how do we tighten in down properly into the engine block before putting round wire and hex nut on it? (Did that make sense?) I am anxious to get the new stud because I feel like I'm living on borrowed time right now.