'14 AGM 1SS/1LE Track build [COTW 11/17/14]

[X25]

Originally Posted by L99CAMA2011

How does the Camaro feel with those 19s. How much faster?

I honestly don't know yet. It's been raining all the time, and these Hankook tires also seem to need some heat to work; I kept spinning them in my short trips. I'm sure I'll soon have opportunity to try them : )

[Lonewolf583]

I'm considering going the same route for suspension. My biggest reservation was ride height difference. Do you know if the perches on the Z28 for springs are the same size as an SS? If so could probably get lowering springs in the rate you need.

[X25]

Originally Posted by Lonewolf583

I'm considering going the same route for suspension. My biggest reservation was ride height difference. Do you know if the perches on the Z28 for springs are the same size as an SS? If so could probably get lowering springs in the rate you need.

I honestly would not want to touch a highly tuned suspension's springs, though. The last pics are with the 1LE suspension, and I am yet to start installing the Z/28 suspension. I do not know if they have any difference in suspension height..

[Lonewolf583]

The time GM has spent on this is what drew me to the kit in the first place, so I don't disagree there.

However, I do suppose you're right. If you lower it, roll center changes and you'll have to up spring rate a bit to compensate. Something I may play around with later, though.

I suppose we shall see where it ends up on yours

[X25]

BC Racing Q10-ER (For '13+ Camaros), waiting in my brother's garage with its extended reservoirs (for clearance with FE4+ suspension) to be installed on his '13 1LE. We also have SWIFT springs to upgrade the front coilovers' springs.

[X25]

Started installing the Z/28 kit! A few notes below:

• Z/28 kit comes with all 4 shocks, both sway bars, and most of the control arms. A part of the kit shown here (the rest behind me).
  
  
• DSSV shock was about 1.25" shorter from bottom mount to the top. I am not sure if it is just to drop the car a bit, or if it is to compensate for the stiffer springs.
  
  
• Top: Z/28 front sway bar. Bottom: 1LE sway bar. You can easily see the difference in diameter. The Z/28 sway bar is also lighter, but could not weigh it yet (since I did not have the 1LE end-links out of the car yet at the time for fair comparison).
  
  
• The new DSSV shocks obviously bolt on.
  

Some of the measurements I logged in my journal:

• 1LE rear sway 17.8 lbs.
• Z/28 rear sway 15 lbs.
• Front 1LE shock
  • 21.8 lbs,
  • 22.75" from top mount to the bottom mount.
• Front Z/28 shock
  • 23.2 lbs,
  • 21.5" from top mount to the bottom mount.

[Camaro Dude]

Originally Posted by X25

Read this!
http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.p...l=1#post508830

OK I think I am a victim of computer wizardry. I will just install a REAL oil temp sensor (or get it installed).

I read the entire thing, and I thank you for bringing this to the table.

I must ask you though, in regards to post #81 here: http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=30648&page=9

In light of that graph, it only seems that the OEM GM temp sensor is merely "too slow" to react. Obviously not as a desirable trait for a good race session. That said though, once temps have stabilized, the actual accuracy of a final temperature reading when comparing both aftermarket and GM oil temp sensor is about the same.

Is my interpretation here correct sir?

[X25]

Originally Posted by Camaro Dude

I read the entire thing, and I thank you for bringing this to the table.

I must ask you though, in regards to post #81 here: http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=30648&page=9

In light of that graph, it only seems that the OEM GM temp sensor is merely "too slow" to react. Obviously not as a desirable trait for a good race session. That said though, once temps have stabilized, the actual accuracy of a final temperature reading when comparing both aftermarket and GM oil temp sensor is about the same.

Is my interpretation here correct sir?

I have seen that graph. It was one of the reasons I've insisted that our oil temp gauge should be real. That said, after all the testing, I am now very confident that what we read is fake. In fact, I think the reading from that sensor is not used for oil temp reading at all. The guy at the G8 forum has unplugged the sensor completely, and he was still able to get readings from the engine oil temp display! You read that right: No sensor, and he was still able to get regular temp readings at driving test he performed.

Accurate oil temp sensors are costly. I think GM engineers realized that they could easily predict the oil temp given a few parameters (like ambient temp, average RPM, coolant temp, oil pressure, etc. that they already log for engine oil life prediction), and that's what they feed us, fake data. I am sure they did their homework, and it is pretty close to real temps. That said, the system has no idea when you change the system, like a bigger radiator, when an external oil cooler is added, or even when the OEM oil cooler is removed! Let me give you another example: I completely removed the OEM engine oil cooler which warms up the engine during startup. With the OEM cooler/warmer, my car was hitting about 120 degrees F engine oil temp right when I merged onto the main street from my house in the mornings. Guess what, after the removal of the OEM cooler/warmer, I STILL hit about the same oil temps right where I used to; how is that even possible?

My deductions from all this is the following:

• Engine oil temp sensor exists, and is real. However, at least on wet sumped recent LS engines, it is not accurate enough to be used as an oil temp gauge, and it only serves to (1) warn user of low oil level, and (2) when the engine oil gets too hot, which gets the car into engine protection mode.
• If you fiddle with the engine or oil cooling system, the PCM has no way of knowing those changes, so the (estimated) oil temp displayed will diverge from the reality. This is dangerous in both ways!
• Beware: If the gauge reading diverges from the real temps (since you upgraded the radiator or replaced the OEM cooler with an external oil cooler, etc.), it might also show high temps when it is too cold. This means, if you see 150 degrees F at the dash, it might be much lower than that, so your engine might not be ready for you to slam throttle pedal!
• IF you upgrade your cooling, you really need oil temp gauge to ensure it is working properly.
• I have dismissed radiator upgrade as a viable solution to engine overheat since it did not impact oil temps, but in light of this fake temp gauge revelation, it deserves to be revisited. After all, keeping the OEM cooler and using the larger radiator will also warm up the engine oil in the mornings, a very nice benefit. We intend to test this route again on my brother's car next summer (2013 1LE).

[PYROLYSIS]

Originally Posted by X25

Started installing the Z/28 kit! A few notes below:

• Z/28 kit comes with all 4 shocks, both sway bars, and most of the control arms. A part of the kit shown here (the rest behind me).
  
  
• DSSV shock was about 1.25" shorter from bottom mount to the top. I am not sure if it is just to drop the car a bit, or if it is to compensate for the stiffer springs.
  
  
• Top: Z/28 front sway bar. Bottom: 1LE sway bar. You can easily see the difference in diameter. The Z/28 sway bar is also lighter, but could not weigh it yet (since I did not have the 1LE end-links out of the car yet at the time for fair comparison).
  
  
• The new DSSV shocks obviously bolt on.
  

Some of the measurements I logged in my journal:

• 1LE rear sway 17.8 lbs.
• Z/28 rear sway 15 lbs.
• Front 1LE shock
  • 21.8 lbs,
  • 22.75" from top mount to the bottom mount.
• Front Z/28 shock
  • 23.2 lbs,
  • 21.5" from top mount to the bottom mount.

Awesome. Let us know how it rides/performs compared to stock.

[AG1LE]

Originally Posted by X25

BC Racing Q10-ER (For '13+ Camaros), waiting in my brother's garage with its extended reservoirs (for clearance with FE4+ suspension) to be installed on his '13 1LE. We also have SWIFT springs to upgrade the front coilovers' springs.

Just curious - why is the Swift spring upgrade needed for new BC ER-type coil overs? Did BC Racing offer the springs as an upgrade?

[X25]

Originally Posted by AG1LE

Just curious - why is the Swift spring upgrade needed for new BC ER-type coil overs? Did BC Racing offer the springs as an upgrade?

SWIFT springs are known to be one of the best springs available. They help the suspension react more linear when the suspension is compressed and let the valving do its job. You don't have to have it, but it will improve the performance, especially at the track.

[FKNGRSY]

Interested to see the results of the DSSV Z/28 suspension vs. your old setup.

Also, I can't help but feel cheated after learning the oil temp guage is slow/incorrect. I watch that thing like a hawk.

Subscribed as well.

[X25]

Stoptech BBK just got delivered today! Let's see how much work I can get done over the weekend. I need to:

• Finish front suspension, install sway bar.
• Do the rear suspension. Question: do I need to lower the cradle for rear upper control arm replacement?
• Install BBK
• Revise brake ducting layout per new wheels and brake calipers.
• Install oil temp/pressure gauges.

The 15" rotors are much lighter than stock 14" units.

[tw78911sc]

Merry Christmas!! My magic oil temp at the track is 266, every time, regardless of temp or lap count. Bogus digital number