A MUST READ for Oil Temps for Tracking - Page 8 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

hcsi99 · 05-31-2015, 03:02 PM

Line size is AN10 I believe.

hcsi99 · 05-31-2015, 03:05 PM

The 290 I had seen on the factory DIC was before the cool by the way.

JusticePete · 05-31-2015, 08:03 PM

The Improved is a nice piece. Not thrilled with the -8 hole, but nothing is perfect. Earls works well. For more than a stock build we have found we need to go BIG.

Overall Height (in): 5.875 in.
Overall Width (in): 21.000 in.
Overall Thickness (in): 3.000 in.

Not easy to mount. To get good air requires fabrication, but is works.

hcsi99 · 05-31-2015, 08:13 PM

I thought about doing two duel earls, but wasn't sure what that would do to the pressure.

X25 · 05-31-2015, 08:45 PM

I used 50-172-7612 Setrab 72 row Series 1 115mm oil cooler:

4.5" wide core (115mm)
72 rows or 22.5" (571.5mm) core height

With so many rows and very short row length, it promises the least pressure drop. I followed Justice Pete's recommendation and used -12AN hose and connections.

backeddy · 05-31-2015, 10:42 PM

Quote:

I even got extended so they will own any issues that come up from tracking this beast for the next 7 years. Haha, chackmate GM.

You "abused" your car....The REAL checkmate.............................

backeddy · 05-31-2015, 10:58 PM

Damn Justice, wouldn't a hole/skeleton-ized approach left a much stronger crash bar in place? I worked on my friend's (NASCAR) race team for a while and they would never think about compromising a support/safety structure like that. Need airflow? skelton-ize it????? just curious if that is how it was left? Not busting balls, just curious....

JusticePete · 06-01-2015, 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by backeddy

Damn Justice, wouldn't a hole/skeleton-ized approach left a much stronger crash bar in place? I worked on my friend's (NASCAR) race team for a while and they would never think about compromising a support/safety structure like that. Need airflow? skelton-ize it????? just curious if that is how it was left? Not busting balls, just curious....

The bumper bar from the factory is 'folded' together. The finished bar in this car is boxed and welded.

X25 · 06-01-2015, 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JusticePete

The bumper bar from the factory is 'folded' together. The finished bar in this car is boxed and welded.

Just a thought: If it's folded, not welded from factory, perhaps it's a crush zone, not a crash bar?

JusticePete · 06-01-2015, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by X25

Just a thought: If it's folded, not welded from factory, perhaps it's a crush zone, not a crash bar?

I think the term is bumper bar, but I could be wrong. It appears to be an energy absorbing design. There is a vendor that sells a single tube replacement or was selling one. We looked at that and felt with the additional fabrication work required to mount the cooler, we would just go ahead with the cut and box.

backeddy · 06-02-2015, 12:17 AM

Thanks for the insight Pete, as always, you rock!

STONE SS · 06-03-2015, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 12-motorsports

A few have asked for details of my build list. Here are the ones related to coolers' jobs.

Engine Oil Cooler Jeg's 555-51705
Engine Oil Cooler Thermostat Adapter Improved Racing EGM-113
Engine Oil Cooler Lines & Fittings Improved Racing Various (-10 AN)
Transmission Cooler ADM ADM-TRANSCOOLER
Transmission Cooler Lines & Fittings Summit Racing Various (-6 AN)
Transmission Cooler Fan & Thermostat Summit Racing Various (Fan: FLD-FHP34107)
Transmission Dip Stick B&M BMM-22168
CN Series Interceptor Gauge Aeroforce CN101
Interceptor Gauge Sensors, etc Aeroforce Various (3/8" NPT Temp Sensors)
Gauge Pod SLP 90554

Do you remember how many feet of hose you needed for the engine oil cooler?

X25 · 06-06-2015, 04:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by STONE SS

Do you remember how many feet of hose you needed for the engine oil cooler?

Per my how-to thread:

Quote:

Parts list (The last number is quantity):

AHL-12 Raceflux lightweight black nylon racing hose, -12AN 12 feet.
DS-090-12 Hose end, double swivel, 90-degree, -12AN, black 3.
DS-120-12 Hose end, double swivel, 120-degree, -12AN, black 1.
EGM-113-12AN / EGM-113 Oil cooler adapter, low-profile, thermostatic, GM LS-series engine, rear sump, high temp (212 degrees F).
ORB-12-08 Adapter, -12AN flare to -08AN straight thread o-ring boss, Viton o-ring, black 2
50-172-7612 Setrab 72 row Series 1 115mm oil cooler, M22F threads.
M22AN12-SE M22 to -12AN Adapter, OEM FD3S oil cooler and Setrab coolers 2
ABKT-235 Setrab oil cooler bracket, 235mm core 2.
12561663 PLUG - Coolant Plug for GM LS Engines 1
FF-12 Fireflex hose sleeving, 1" (-12AN) 3.

hcsi99 · 07-28-2015, 12:17 PM

I ran at Gingerman yesterday where it was around 85 degrees most of the day. I'm running an Earl's 16 row cooler with AN10 fittings and hoses, and Improved Racing's 180 degree oil thermostat mounted right side up. I have an Auto Meter digital oil temp gauge with the sensor mounted in the Improved Racing oil cooler adapter reading the oil temp of the oil going to the cooler.

The first few sessions I drove the car the way I've always driven at Gingerman. I keep the car in 3rd gear until I get to the long straight between 10B and 11 where I shift to 4th. I've always felt that my lap times were good (1:46.9) driving this way. The RPM's drop to about 4,300 from what I remember in the slowest corner on the track, but the car still has good torque and gets me going just fine out of the turn. Driving the car this way I was seeing oil temps of around 288 degrees, with a few times hitting 295 with someone in front of me.

The last few sessions I tried down shifting into 2nd in the slower corners to see if I benefited at all. I felt that I got out of the corners faster, but felt that I had to slow down more to justify 2nd gear, and I also felt that my times reflected it. I was running low 1:47's keeping the car in 3rd gear, and running high 1:48's when I shifting into 2nd for the slower turns. Sure it felt quicker, and I was busier, but for me, it was slower. To each their own. When down shifting into 2nd I and pulling 2nd gear to redline I the oil temps were at 305 degrees, and I expected that with more RPM.

I'd love to get my temps down to the 250 to 270 range, and I'm going to need to do some research to figure out how to do that. I can also confirm that my factory oil temp will not read above 266 degrees. I know I had said in another thread that mine went higher, but was wrong.

One thing I noticed was in the few left handers that Gingerman has, my added oil temp gauge would read 200, 170, 130, then 0 while in the left hander, then as soon as the car was straight again the temp would go back to more realist numbers. I didn't encounter this on right handers. I'm assuming that the oil is going away from the cooler pickup in left handers, and causing the false readings.

The icing on the cake came in the last session. I was on my 5th lap and noticed the corner worker in 5 waving a black flag in one hand, and pointing at me with the other. I looked in my mirror and saw a little light colored smoke behind me. I made my way to the pits where I was greeted by a track worked telling me that fluid was dripping from under my engine. I made my way over to grid and shut the car down. At this point there was some more smoke, and it was coming out of the vent on the hood. I released the hood, grabbed my cooler full of ice and water, and opened it up. The 2nd to last spark plug wire on the passenger side was on fire. It wasn't big, maybe 3 times the size of flame that you get from a lighter. I grabbed a hand full of water and ice and quickly put out the little blaze. Further inspection revealed that the dip stick had popped out of the tube and sprayed a 1/4 of a quart of oil all over the under side of the hood, the passenger front strut tower, and the passenger exhaust manifold. I removed my top engine cover long ago because I believe it causing the coils to retain to much heat, so all the coils and wires are exposed. I always check my oil before each session, and I'm 90% sure that I got the stick back in the tube all the way. It still takes a good amount of force to get the stick out of the tube, so maybe I didn't. I was able to borrow some brake clean and spray off the oil that had leaked out, but I didn't dare touch the spark plug wire that looked like it was hanging on by a thread. I started the car expecting a misfire, but no misfire felt, no check engine light. We loaded the car up, topped off the oil, and hit the road for our 100 mile drive back to Indiana. The car ran great, and the dip stick stayed in the tube. I need to order a new wire, maybe some wire insulators this time, and I'm going to invest in a fire extinguisher to take with me. A trailer is also in the works for next season. My wife called me on my way home and asked me how it went, and I replied, " just a small fire, no big deal."

I'm going through the video and data, and hope to have something put together this weekend. I tried a new external mic that mounts to my gopro, but still got a lot of wind noise, so I'm going back to my old set up.

I'm going to be doing some instructing again at the Optima Battery Challenge at Road America. I instructed their event at Michigan International Speedway when they ran the roval earlier in the summer. Some of the guys running in the pro class had some very fast 5th gens, but I didn't get a change to see what kind of set up they are running as far as oil coolers go. I instructed a guy with a built 1LE that has 500 plus HP, and was also running an external oil cooler set up, but he was seeing temps well over the 300 degree mark. He told me what cooler he was running, but I didn't get a chance to see it, or recognize the brand.

The oil temp drama continues.

05-31-2015, 03:02 PM	#99
hcsi99 Cadillac Service Manager Drives: 2014 Camaro 1SS, 1LE, NPP, RECAROS Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Indiana Posts: 672 View My Garage	Line size is AN10 I believe. __________________

05-31-2015, 03:05 PM	#100
hcsi99 Cadillac Service Manager Drives: 2014 Camaro 1SS, 1LE, NPP, RECAROS Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Indiana Posts: 672 View My Garage	The 290 I had seen on the factory DIC was before the cool by the way. __________________

05-31-2015, 08:13 PM	#102
hcsi99 Cadillac Service Manager Drives: 2014 Camaro 1SS, 1LE, NPP, RECAROS Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Indiana Posts: 672 View My Garage	I thought about doing two duel earls, but wasn't sure what that would do to the pressure. __________________

05-31-2015, 08:45 PM	#103
X25 Drives: '16 C7 Z51 Join Date: May 2012 Location: Redmond, WA Posts: 3,056	I used 50-172-7612 Setrab 72 row Series 1 115mm oil cooler: 4.5" wide core (115mm) 72 rows or 22.5" (571.5mm) core height With so many rows and very short row length, it promises the least pressure drop. I followed Justice Pete's recommendation and used -12AN hose and connections. __________________ '16 Corvette C7 Z51 1LT (Build Thread) '14 AGM 1SS 1LE [COTW 11/17/14] (Build Thread) (SOLD) '13 Mazda MX-5 Club (Build Thread) '17 RAM 1500 Crew Cab 4x4 Night Edition '15 Nissan Rogue S AWD Last edited by X25; 05-31-2015 at 09:00 PM.

07-28-2015, 12:17 PM	#112
hcsi99 Cadillac Service Manager Drives: 2014 Camaro 1SS, 1LE, NPP, RECAROS Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Indiana Posts: 672 View My Garage	My Oil Cooler I ran at Gingerman yesterday where it was around 85 degrees most of the day. I'm running an Earl's 16 row cooler with AN10 fittings and hoses, and Improved Racing's 180 degree oil thermostat mounted right side up. I have an Auto Meter digital oil temp gauge with the sensor mounted in the Improved Racing oil cooler adapter reading the oil temp of the oil going to the cooler. The first few sessions I drove the car the way I've always driven at Gingerman. I keep the car in 3rd gear until I get to the long straight between 10B and 11 where I shift to 4th. I've always felt that my lap times were good (1:46.9) driving this way. The RPM's drop to about 4,300 from what I remember in the slowest corner on the track, but the car still has good torque and gets me going just fine out of the turn. Driving the car this way I was seeing oil temps of around 288 degrees, with a few times hitting 295 with someone in front of me. The last few sessions I tried down shifting into 2nd in the slower corners to see if I benefited at all. I felt that I got out of the corners faster, but felt that I had to slow down more to justify 2nd gear, and I also felt that my times reflected it. I was running low 1:47's keeping the car in 3rd gear, and running high 1:48's when I shifting into 2nd for the slower turns. Sure it felt quicker, and I was busier, but for me, it was slower. To each their own. When down shifting into 2nd I and pulling 2nd gear to redline I the oil temps were at 305 degrees, and I expected that with more RPM. I'd love to get my temps down to the 250 to 270 range, and I'm going to need to do some research to figure out how to do that. I can also confirm that my factory oil temp will not read above 266 degrees. I know I had said in another thread that mine went higher, but was wrong. One thing I noticed was in the few left handers that Gingerman has, my added oil temp gauge would read 200, 170, 130, then 0 while in the left hander, then as soon as the car was straight again the temp would go back to more realist numbers. I didn't encounter this on right handers. I'm assuming that the oil is going away from the cooler pickup in left handers, and causing the false readings. The icing on the cake came in the last session. I was on my 5th lap and noticed the corner worker in 5 waving a black flag in one hand, and pointing at me with the other. I looked in my mirror and saw a little light colored smoke behind me. I made my way to the pits where I was greeted by a track worked telling me that fluid was dripping from under my engine. I made my way over to grid and shut the car down. At this point there was some more smoke, and it was coming out of the vent on the hood. I released the hood, grabbed my cooler full of ice and water, and opened it up. The 2nd to last spark plug wire on the passenger side was on fire. It wasn't big, maybe 3 times the size of flame that you get from a lighter. I grabbed a hand full of water and ice and quickly put out the little blaze. Further inspection revealed that the dip stick had popped out of the tube and sprayed a 1/4 of a quart of oil all over the under side of the hood, the passenger front strut tower, and the passenger exhaust manifold. I removed my top engine cover long ago because I believe it causing the coils to retain to much heat, so all the coils and wires are exposed. I always check my oil before each session, and I'm 90% sure that I got the stick back in the tube all the way. It still takes a good amount of force to get the stick out of the tube, so maybe I didn't. I was able to borrow some brake clean and spray off the oil that had leaked out, but I didn't dare touch the spark plug wire that looked like it was hanging on by a thread. I started the car expecting a misfire, but no misfire felt, no check engine light. We loaded the car up, topped off the oil, and hit the road for our 100 mile drive back to Indiana. The car ran great, and the dip stick stayed in the tube. I need to order a new wire, maybe some wire insulators this time, and I'm going to invest in a fire extinguisher to take with me. A trailer is also in the works for next season. My wife called me on my way home and asked me how it went, and I replied, " just a small fire, no big deal." I'm going through the video and data, and hope to have something put together this weekend. I tried a new external mic that mounts to my gopro, but still got a lot of wind noise, so I'm going back to my old set up. I'm going to be doing some instructing again at the Optima Battery Challenge at Road America. I instructed their event at Michigan International Speedway when they ran the roval earlier in the summer. Some of the guys running in the pro class had some very fast 5th gens, but I didn't get a change to see what kind of set up they are running as far as oil coolers go. I instructed a guy with a built 1LE that has 500 plus HP, and was also running an external oil cooler set up, but he was seeing temps well over the 300 degree mark. He told me what cooler he was running, but I didn't get a chance to see it, or recognize the brand. The oil temp drama continues. __________________

05-31-2015, 08:03 PM	#101
JusticePete Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Virginia Posts: 20,174	The Improved is a nice piece. Not thrilled with the -8 hole, but nothing is perfect. Earls works well. For more than a stock build we have found we need to go BIG. Overall Height (in): 5.875 in. Overall Width (in): 21.000 in. Overall Thickness (in): 3.000 in. Not easy to mount. To get good air requires fabrication, but is works.

05-31-2015, 10:58 PM	#105
backeddy Banned Drives: 2011 Boxster Spyder (best car ever) Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: San Jose, Ca Posts: 1,529	Damn Justice, wouldn't a hole/skeleton-ized approach left a much stronger crash bar in place? I worked on my friend's (NASCAR) race team for a while and they would never think about compromising a support/safety structure like that. Need airflow? skelton-ize it????? just curious if that is how it was left? Not busting balls, just curious....

06-02-2015, 12:17 AM	#109
backeddy Banned Drives: 2011 Boxster Spyder (best car ever) Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: San Jose, Ca Posts: 1,529	Thanks for the insight Pete, as always, you rock!