CLUTCH FAILURE!!! WTF

[90503]

Originally Posted by KC Z28

...of course dealer did nothing since there is no bulletin and they couldn't replicate...

Welcome to GM/Chevy service.....There are no mechanics left in this country...Only robots who read bulletins.....Good luck...

And, oh, if they can't replicate it, you must be a liar....(That's probably in one of their bulletins)....

[Alain]

Originally Posted by 90503

Welcome to GM/Chevy service.....There are no mechanics left in this country...Only robots who read bulletins.....Good luck...

And, oh, if they can't replicate it, you must be a liar....(That's probably in one of their bulletins)....

So absolutely unfortunate but true.

Good luck OP, I'm pulling for you. I'm eager to see what the outcome is.

[mr02Z/28]

LoL ...... help me Tom Cruise !!!!!!

[Zfatuated]

Originally Posted by backtotintops

Remember prior to the full failure, that twice or maybe more the pedal has moved down 1/3 on its own always after a hard run...where is that hydraulic pressure going or coming from when I'm not doing anything?

As for the haters.... I'm with zfat...I adore this car. I get so much crazy fun out of it that's why I'm always driving it. Besides I had many way more serious issues with vipers like breaking 4 of the welds on the steering rack and learning about it in the essses at the glen. We will get through it...thanks for everyone's help.

Based on the facts, it's going to wind up being the clutch master cylinder. Bad internal seal, or a burr/some flashing, between the piston and bore allowing fluid to bleed by. It explains all the symptoms. Easypeazy fix, crap happens, onward upward.

"Adore", that a good way to say it

[Skylane765]

Ok, now we know it is not the throw out barring hanging up, he said the car is in gaged when it failed, so all now it can be is the master most likely, or the slave but not likely.
Zfat has the same thinking also. Looks like the master is leaking past a seal, and if you let it sit or drive the fluid will return to the right side of piston and work.

[Buckeye]

Interesting. My wife's 2013 1LE had not been run for a week. Went out and started it and the clutch pedal stayed on the floor. I can pull it back up but when I push it back in the pedal still stays down. Fluid is clean and at the proper level.
Looks like it'll be heading to the dealer next week, too.

[backtotintops]

So based on these latest theories and especially since two of you concur this is not an air issue. The dealer called back yesterday and said they "bled the clutch overnight" and then power bled the brakes too???...and "I'm good to go." I will print out this thread and bring it to them to put them on notice that I (we) believe it will likely happen again and the master cylinder will need full replacement. Is that expensive?...or can they just replace the seals.

[backtotintops]

and does this explain the pedal moving down 1/3 on its own?

What are the Vegas odds this will return?

[2SSRS@Gen5diy]

Originally Posted by backtotintops

and does this explain the pedal moving down 1/3 on its own?

What are the Vegas odds this will return?

110% it will be back.

[cam99]

Originally Posted by 2SSRS@Gen5diy

110% it will be back.

This, and shortly

[90503]

Originally Posted by backtotintops

So based on these latest theories and especially since two of you concur this is not an air issue. The dealer called back yesterday and said they "bled the clutch overnight" and then power bled the brakes too???...and "I'm good to go." I will print out this thread and bring it to them to put them on notice that I (we) believe it will likely happen again and the master cylinder will need full replacement. Is that expensive?...or can they just replace the seals.

Originally Posted by backtotintops

and does this explain the pedal moving down 1/3 on its own?

What are the Vegas odds this will return?

Not sure what "bled overnight" means, other than they probably "did nothing but let it sit"...

Sorry to be cynical, but my guess is you've only scratched Round #1 with the dealership....Next visit tell them you don't just want the pedal off the floor, you want the reason it stays there repaired....

Again, personally, I would find my own mechanic, or do it myself, and only go to the dealership as an absolute last resort, warranty or not....

They probably know what needs to be replaced parts-wise (master cylinder) in order to find what will fix it for good, they just won't do it yet.

Good luck.

P.S. If they did bleed anything, doubtful they used any upgraded dot4 fluid...Might ask them, just so you know...

[Zfatuated]

Originally Posted by backtotintops

I will print out this thread and bring it to them to put them on notice that I (we) believe it will likely happen again and the master cylinder will need full replacement. Is that expensive?...or can they just replace the seals.

I think you are wasting your time and perhaps offending them to print the thread. There is a chance they are competent and this will offend them. If probelm recurs, it'll be their next step anyhow to replace master.

No one rebuilds master/slaves at the dealer level anymore. That's was back in the "old" days.

Originally Posted by backtotintops

and does this explain the pedal moving down 1/3 on its own?

What are the Vegas odds this will return?

1. Yes.
2. Reno odds are 90%

[Mikebrinda]

What am I missing here? Why would a dealer behave as if replacing a suspect part comes out of their own pocket on a car under factory warranty? Is there some honey pot of bonus cash available for dealers with low dollar warranty claims? Rather than fool around and troubleshoot in stages, just change the most likely failing part. If the problem still occurs, at least the customer knows you gave it your best shot.

[90503]

Originally Posted by Mikebrinda

What am I missing here? Why would a dealer behave as if replacing a suspect part comes out of their own pocket on a car under factory warranty? Is there some honey pot of bonus cash available for dealers with low dollar warranty claims? Rather than fool around and troubleshoot in stages, just change the most likely failing part. If the problem still occurs, at least the customer knows you gave it your best shot.

I could be wrong, but I think the irony is the dealer can make more money on warranty claims if it is in fact done in stages....They can bill the factory more than once for the same thing...T=tops has had a brake/clutch bleed done under warranty....The dealership can bill GM again for the same thing when they do the cylinder replacement...

.Inconvenient for the customer, more money for the dealership....