How do people get ridiculous numbers for cam swap?

[USAFS197]

As far as I know, you should always check your push rod length when doing a cam swap. I don't think there is such a thing as a one size fits all push rod length in the strictest terms. I'm sure a 7.4" is super close but it may not be exact.

[Bodywerks]

Originally Posted by AustinWithrow

shouldn't they be 7.4"?

I don't think you've done enough research on the subject based on this statement. Your pushrod length needs to be whatever it measures out to be, and it's not always going to be exactly 7.4". If you have a high lift cam you may have a smaller base circle which will affect required pushrod length, for example.
And you said earlier that your tuning is 'taken care of'. If you are already tuned it will be completely null and void once you get the cam installed. fuel scheduling, ignition timing, idle rpm, rev limit, etc will need to be completely different with a cam. So unless you 'know a guy', chances are you will be paying for another tune, even if it is a remote tune.
Also, the stock oil pump has a known issue of bypass valves sticking open, and more oil flow is always a plus. This is why the majority of cam installs include a pump replacement or at least a port job and bypass valve rework.

[Joseph1LE]

Originally Posted by AustinWithrow

shouldn't they be 7.4"?

This raises the question now of if you have enough experience and have done enough research to do the job yourself confidently without damaging your car. Bodywerks explained it well. Really make sure you take your time. If you don't have and can't get a pushrod length checker, you CAN buy an off the shelf cam (BTR cam for example) and the maker of the cam (Brian Tooley lets say) will often be able to tell you what size pushrod you'll need for that particular cam and for your set up. And even then it's still good to check but in that case 99% chance you'll be fine.

[rberns]

As stated above the L99 usually replace the stall converter which I think mine was around the $1000 mark.

[CamaroCracka]

It's cheaper with a manual and choosing a cam that works with stock springs and push rods keeps the cost down even more. There are a couple out there. I Lingenfelter has one. You don't gain as much hp but the risk is a lot less especially if you're daily driving it. If you are paying someone to do the swap the smaller cams don't make financial sense but if you do your own work its just time in the garage

[AustinWithrow]

Originally Posted by Bodywerks

I don't think you've done enough research on the subject based on this statement. Your pushrod length needs to be whatever it measures out to be, and it's not always going to be exactly 7.4". If you have a high lift cam you may have a smaller base circle which will affect required pushrod length, for example.
And you said earlier that your tuning is 'taken care of'. If you are already tuned it will be completely null and void once you get the cam installed. fuel scheduling, ignition timing, idle rpm, rev limit, etc will need to be completely different with a cam. So unless you 'know a guy', chances are you will be paying for another tune, even if it is a remote tune.
Also, the stock oil pump has a known issue of bypass valves sticking open, and more oil flow is always a plus. This is why the majority of cam installs include a pump replacement or at least a port job and bypass valve rework.

no, I've done my research. every cam swap that I've seen with the lethal night fury cam has always went with 7.4. I've never see a 7.375 or 7.425. and yes, I know someone that will do the tuning for me. I know it will have to be retuned. it has a dyno tune right now, with just bolt ons. and yes, I've found out that either a new oil pump or porting of the old one is a good upgrade.

[AustinWithrow]

Originally Posted by Joseph1LE

This raises the question now of if you have enough experience and have done enough research to do the job yourself confidently without damaging your car. Bodywerks explained it well. Really make sure you take your time. If you don't have and can't get a pushrod length checker, you CAN buy an off the shelf cam (BTR cam for example) and the maker of the cam (Brian Tooley lets say) will often be able to tell you what size pushrod you'll need for that particular cam and for your set up. And even then it's still good to check but in that case 99% chance you'll be fine.

I have enough experience to do the swap. my grandfather was a mechanic for 40 years, he will be helping with it. I'm just saying, the research that I've done on the lethal night fury cam has always used 7.4"

[Nor Cal ZL1]

You always need to check and verify the pushrod lenght. Lots of motors are ruined by not doing so. Bringing this to your attention could have saved you a motor.
That is why people spend more money to have someone else do it.

About two months ago someone thought the same thing about the pushrods and trashed his cam lobes. The metal from the cam lobes circulated through his motor and ruined many bearings, oil pump etc. The aftermath looks like a lifter failure, but the cause was wrong length. It needs to be what it needs to be. He used the length 7.4 because it seems to be the most common measurement that works. But it does not work everytime.

[christianchevell]

actually a lot of the cams I heard of on here require the 7.425 mainly based on the amount of lift as the base circle for a cam has to be smaller to make the higher lift lobes, so it is what ever is the right measurement..........

[EFI]

You're comparing the basic cost of a cam kit + fluids with the cost of a full cam kit + fluids + labor + tune.

You doing the work yourself saves $1500. You doing just the bare cam kit saves close to $1000. That's how people can end up spending over $3000 when you're just spending $1000.

no, I've done my research. every cam swap that I've seen with the lethal night fury cam has always went with 7.4

They do that because most people are lazy and don't bother to actually measure and get the proper length for the proper lifter preload. Stock is 7.4 so they just put a new 7.4. That's why you see those, not because it's the proper length.

[Lethal Racing]

Originally Posted by Sales@Phastek

What also plays a factor is the name of the shop, like Hennessey or Lethal. The bigger the name the more they might charge more, if they advertise or promote the business in any way the will bump their price to account for their marketing.

Thanks. I have seen estimates from many other companies here and I believe we are inline on pricing with the market. We give discounts in our install packages. I believe anyone who has received quotes from us know this already. If they do believe we are higher its mainly because we change everything that needs to be changed. We don't reuse gaskets or fluids. I'd also rather give you the right price upfront instead of quoting low and hitting you with a larger bill when you pickup. Thats never nice for customers on a budget.

Shawn

[CWI]

I did my own swap a year and a half ago. It cost me about $1500 in parts but I also replaced the lifters and rebuilt the heads at the same time. Extra over just a cam swap was new exhaust valves, new valve seals, and lapping the heads and valves. Got that part cheap by a friend that works a machine shop.

Most of the $ figures I'm seeing on here are pretty average.

[Bodywerks]

To do it right, you need a new chain, $160, upgraded oil pump, $130, upgraded rockers(che bushings are $450, I went with btr cryo treated rockers with btr trunnion upgrade, also $450), a good set of pushrods, $200-250, and of course the cam, $400-500, 've seals for everything, $40, a couple changes of oil and filters, $100-150, new coolant, $40-50, and then finally, the tune, anywhere from $150-550, depending on if it's a first tune or retune.

[ksmrz]

Originally Posted by Nor Cal ZL1

You always need to check and verify the pushrod lenght. Lots of motors are ruined by not doing so. Bringing this to your attention could have saved you a motor.
That is why people spend more money to have someone else do it.

About two months ago someone thought the same thing about the pushrods and trashed his cam lobes. The metal from the cam lobes circulated through his motor and ruined many bearings, oil pump etc. The aftermath looks like a lifter failure, but the cause was wrong length. It needs to be what it needs to be. He used the length 7.4 because it seems to be the most common measurement that works. But it does not work everytime.

I doubt a little less preload on the lifters destroyed the cam/engine. I have 7.4s in my car, 7.425s had too much preload. My valvetrain is quiet. Every engine is different but still...