Hesster's 2010 SS "Street Monster" Build Thread

[hesster]

HOW TO: Custom Fog's and Headlamps with Oracle Halo's
Thought I would post how I did my Fog's and Headlamps. They look great, and are part of my Mod Flog. I added some custom touch's based on some Posts I found.

FOGS -
I will not go into cutting them open as this is well covered in the Forum, other than I used a Dremmel and a very thin diamond wheel. Easy 2 do. I also wet sanded the Lens with 2000 grit and polished them with plastic polish with my buffer clamped in a Vice.
This is the Fog Lamp disassembled with the Oracle Dual color Amber/White LED ring pushed into the housing. I had to drill the hole larger for wire clearance, and slightly grind some relief into the housing at the base of the wires until the LEDs would fully seat down into the housing. I did this so the 80mm Diffuser Ring from Diode Dynamics would fit inside the Housing and allow the Lens to seat flush for bonding.
Then I put a few dabs of Plastic Epoxy at 4 quadrants to assure adhesion, and used clear silicone to seal the circumference of the lens to eliminate any leaks. Pics are the Lamps lit with White, then Amber using a 9v battery. 12v is 4x as Bright!
Next was the Headlamps. Again, there are plenty of Videos on how to remove the Lens, but I will add some comments based on my experience. First of all, I did not use the Oven Method, since the part cools too rapidly and I don't think "Baking" them is a good idea. I used a heat gun and worked a 3-4" section at a time. You have to pry the crap out of the housing and get the screwdriver or pry tool up and under the lens as it sits in a "U" channel of the housing, and dig out as much adhesive as possible. You will distort and even create minor deformation and damage to the housing, but by hitting the housing again with the heat gun after the Lens is removed you can reshape the "U" channel by squeezing it back together with pliers. This is a really brutal and frustrating job, but it can be done with lots of patience.
First thing I did was wet sand the Lens with 2000 grit and polish it like I did with the Fog Lens's.

This is the Headlamp Insert Assembly removed from the Lens. I elected to add a inner Fog Lamp LED and a Diffuser to give it a "Eye" effect. First I installed the large Dual Color White/Amber Halo Ring. Some grinding to the housing is necessary to make it seat flush, and a few dabs of Epoxy to secure it. Tip - also Epoxy the wire connections at the Ring as they can break off easily. I decided to reuse the Large Diffuser Ring, and you have to cut it per the directions. Then I installed the Fog LED Ring, and ground some relief into the housing where the wire connections are so it would fit flush, drilled a hole for the wires to pass through, and added a few dabs of Epoxy. I then installed the Diffuser Ring on top of the LED Ring, centered it, and secured it with some Epoxy. It actually sits on top of the outside of the LED Ring, but covers 90% of and still works as intended.

I repeatably tested the LEDs every step of the way to assure function. This is a test with the Amber and Green.

Then assemble the LED housing into the Lens. I used a soft cloth to clean the inside of the Lens before assembly. The Large Diffuser Ring go's in first, and I added a few small washers under the housing between it and the Diffuser Ring to provide the proper clearance before torquing down the 4 fasteners, as the LED ring has a slight interference with the Diffuser and you don't want to distort or crack the LED Ring! I used electrical tape on a foot of the wires, poked a hole in the Vent, and fished them through. Then it is time to glue the Lens to the Headlamp Housing.

This is the Sealant I used. It is Crystal Clear, flexible, but takes a little longer to cure. Any 100% clear Silicone will work. Fill the "U" channel FULLY with adhesive. Then press the Lens into the Housing, clamp where possible, and let it dry overnight.

Seal the vent where the wires exit.
These are the finished product Lit in White/Green and Amber/Green. Looks Killer. It will be a while before I install them to the Vehicle, and I am going to finish my extensive Suspension Mods first.

[hesster]

Assembled and set up my BC ER's yesterday. The Moreno Camber insert without the Black Silicone Band fit nicely inside the BC Spring and I was able to pop it in easily and seat it flush with some large channel locks. I set the spring preload at ~4mm, and extended the shock body quite a bit to start in order to make up for the loss of height in not using the stock isolator and Moreno adapter. I set the shock adjustment at on the top of the shaft at 15 clicks for now which is in the middle of the 30 click REBOUND adjustment. The remote reservoir also has a knob for adjustment for COMPRESSION so I also set that at 15 clicks. Time to assemble the suspension and adjust ride height - I'm sure this will be trial and error, and hopefully I have enough ride height.

[hesster]

Holes drilled for the Coilover Extensions, will add some hose as a grommet. Popped in the 1000hp Axles, LH went in easily, RH side not so easy, hopefully it is seated and seems to have the same engagement depth.

Now gotta figure out how to press these trailing arm bushings out.

[CALLAWAY11]

Man! Your car is looking awesome. You are going gonzo on it. Hopefully I get to see it, if it ever quits snowing You are pretty handy I see, that's awesome. Keep it up

[hesster]

Quick trip to ACO for a Pipe Coupling and the right diameter threaded rod, the metal cone I found in my basement box of junk parts, some nuts, washers, and a little oil on the threads, and it pressed right out. New bushings and sleeve went in with some BMR jelly and large channel locks. NOW it is time to get serious on suspension reassembly.

[hesster]

Initial assembly completed on Drivers Rear. Everything seemed to fit real nicely. Torqued specific bolts that are not subject to Bushing Timing (Strut Plate to body, Toe Link, UCA Bushing Saddle Bolts, Bolts at Knuckle). Will tighten those subject to "Timing" after Cradle is raised and bolts tightened, Caliper is loose installed, Rotor, and Wheel installed, and car is lowered on it wheels, and finally ride height is adjusted on the Coilovers. These are the UCA Bushing Bolt, Trailing Arm, LCA at Subframe, and Shock to LCA Bolt. Before I raise the Cradle, I will install my Magnaflow Resonator while the exhaust is dropped slightly, and change the Diff Fluid. Then torque the Axle Nuts, these are 36mm and 199 ft lbs - you need a really big torque wrench! May have to go back and forth a few times depending on the access to certain bolts, and the ride height results. As for now, this is some mighty fine looking stuff.

[hesster]

So on to the Front Suspension Assembly. Much easier in ways than the Rear.

First was to change the Diff Fluid while the car is up in the air, access to the plugs was easier. Debris on the Plugs not so bad, I have seen much worse. Used Lucas 75W-90 Synthetic. Old stuff stinks like - well it stinks...


Assembled everything loosely, then final torqued all bolts to spec except the Radius Rod and Control Arm Bushing Bolts, these are "Timed" and tightened after the car is lowered and ride height set. The Strut Clevis bolts are 59 ft lbs - not much, but then you gotta go 180 degrees which is a boat load of torque and took everything from my 250 ft lb Torque Wrench/Angle Gage to get 'er done. Kinda like a dead lift pulling on the wrench. Rotors are Ride Tec and Hawks Pads. Also got some Caliper Chevy/Bembro stickers to put on. Moreno Camber Plates are a nice touch, no messing with the Strut Clevis Bolts again to get Camber - I hope.

[hesster]

Woo - Hoo - 22's.

[hesster]

Front Suspension assembly is done.
Finished up the rears today, assembled the brakes, and installed the Rear Sway Bar. So I searched the forum to determine if the sway bar should be installed with the end link with the 3 positions angled up, or down, as it has a slight offset from dead straight. I installed the Bar with the end link pointing up, as I saw one pic om the C5 forum and hope it is correct. [B]The Sway Bar Links are a pain to install, and they seem angled, but followed the instructions. Anyone let me know if this installation looks correct.


Last bit of work today was to saw off a 24" section of my exhaust at the crossover so I can install a resonator, as the car is ungodly loud after the blower and cam along with the Borla Atak - this was a PITA, and I have more work to do to separate the exhaust.

[hesster]

Installed the Hurst Shifter with Pit Pack Option. Not too hard cause the exhaust section was already cut out and clearance was good. What a difference!

Whacked out a 2' section of exhaust to install a Magnaflow Resonator. Not easy, limited use of a sawzall, but got er done. I prefer the Lap Stainless Muffler Clamps as they clamp like no tomorrow, and do not damage the exhaust if you have to disassemble at some point. Had to pull the rear Pipes to get enough lateral travel, but it is "easy". Assembly was easy, but the Resonator may interfere with the BMR Frame Cross Brace. I will figure that out.

Then Tightened the new Cradle Bolts and Axle Nuts. Really Big Torque wrench required.

And finally - jacked up the rear some more, slapped on the Foose 22"'s, lowered it on the Race Ramps, lowered the Quick Jack, and assessed the initial Ride Height. Time to adjust the BC ER's down tomorrow, especially in the rear. Then take some rough caster and Toe measurements.

[hesster]

Installed the BMR Sub Frame Braces and modified the cross brace so it did not interfere with the Magnaflow Resonator.

On to setting Ride Height. But - ran into a big issue - the BC ER Remote Reservoir Hose was getting pinched due to insufficient clearance in the BMR LCA when the car was lowered. This REALLY sucked cause I was NOT about to tear the suspension down, so I got out the Dremmel and cut some slots. Took forever since I did not want to damage the Reservoir Hose or Shock Body, but Got 'Er Done. BMR boys - you need to address this for us double adjustable Coil Over Guy's with Reservoirs. I measured the flat top of the Tire to the Top of the Inner Fender, and set the Fronts at 15/16" and the Rears at 1-1/4" for now. The 315's in the Rear look like they will be pretty tight to the inside of the inner fender when in Jounce so I don't want to go too low to start. Then I torqued all of the Timed Bushings but the Rear Toe and Camber Bolts, will do that next. Finally loosened and pushed the Moreno Camber Plates Fully Outboard as instructed, and checked Camber with my Gauge. Who knows if it is correct, but for now a little over 1 degree is perfect.

[hesster]

On to some exterior/body mods. Front Fascia had seen it's share of scrapes, so I touched it up a little with a rattle can. Cleaned the Inner's. Installed the Mail Slot Scanner, Fogs, Shark Tooth Grille, and APR Splitter. Have to sort out where to connect the Support Rods for the APR.

[Magna_Flow]

The lower looks good! That's a neat little camber gauge you have there, too.

[hesster]

Bouncing around on my exterior Mods. Some frustration creeping in on some of this as I will outline. This in not unusual, and one needs to know when to step back, have a beer, and think about it. My friggin new Quick Jack stopped working properly and would not lift the car, and one side leaks down (almost tipped the car on its side - I was mortified). Gonna call them today to resolve this. Thankfully I have the suspension done.
I like the CF stuff, it is pricey for sure, and hope it fits to my expectations. We will see.

Finishing up on the Front Fascia, I added diodes to keep the Halo's on with the DRL's, and wired up the Fog Halos to be operated with a PB switch in the cockpit. Then installed (2) of the support rods, I have (2) more on the way. The APR Splitter was secured front and back so it does not flop around at "speed".

Removed the rockers, only broke (4) clips but the CF new one's do not attach at the bottom like the stock part, so I don't have to get any new one's. Not too hard to remove, just follow the DIY post.

I have a Siebon Rear Lid with the integrated Spoiler, but in transferring the inner hardware I noticed a very small hairline "crack" in the Gel Coat or clear coat right on the crown of the spoiler. I am not happy at all about this, have no idea how it happened as I have been real careful with handling the part (prob as shipped), but will sand it out, apply some resin, and re-clear it as it has to be perfect. ANY INPUT ON THIS FOR REPAIR WOULD BE APPRECIATED!. Will also paint the inside. Started by pulling off all the harness clips and latch.

The Terminator Hood looks killer. Will wait to install after installing a E2 Elite Catch Can and some engine dress.

Siebon CF Rockers, hope these also fit nicely.

Have a Havoc Diffuser withe the CF insert option. Paint required. So in Michigan, that means at least 65 degrees and dry.