10-05-2017, 08:25 PM | #1 |
Drives: Black 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Lakewood WA
Posts: 44
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Paint shopped messed up my car
Car details: 2010 ss w/custom comp cam/springs installed professionally in va back in 2012. Has run great ever since. only 9k miles, garage queen never driven hard...ever. Took it to a local (olympia, wa) paint shop to get a ding out of the hood. Picked up a week later and it had a p0502 code (speed sensor) which means no front tire speed, over 3k rpm and rear wheel speed (burnout/launching). car seemed to be ok and when I questioned them they said they had no idea. Took home and parked in garage. fast forward a month, pulled the car out to wash it so i could drive the next day and realized there were 4 quarter sized oil spots on the garage floor under the engine! drove it back to them to confront them which they denied and had all the traction control lights come on the whole time. I'm absolutely gutted. Bought the car after my 4th deployment overseas. It's been babied ever since. Now I have no idea what to do. Should I take it to the chevy dealer? I worry about them not being familiar with a cam and getting into the engine and just saying "new motor". I believe the nearest performance shop is a 5 hour dive and there is no way i would try to drive this thing 5 hrs. Any suggestions/advice?
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10-05-2017, 08:56 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2014 Black 2SS/RS L99 Coupe Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Standish, Maine
Posts: 44
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Unfortunately I don't have any advice that would be useful, but wish you the best in getting the problem solved. Thank you for your service!
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10-05-2017, 09:03 PM | #3 |
Fast Cars and Old Guitars
Drives: 2015 2SS RS (L99, baby!) Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: N. CA
Posts: 3,974
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I'm no expert but isn't there some kind of computer forensics to see RPM, rev limiter bounce, top speed, etc., to pull maybe by a local tuner? The dealer may also provide a clue. Proving it wasn't you may be tough. : / Joy riders out of control!
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10-05-2017, 09:07 PM | #4 |
Drives: Savitar; The 500rwhp N/A Monster! Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Middletown, Ohio
Posts: 2,914
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This is why it is wise to have a dash cam. Sorry about your luck OP, hope you get it sorted out and thank you for your service!
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10-05-2017, 09:21 PM | #5 |
Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mich
Posts: 4,482
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One thing is not always connected to another. You can do burnouts and not set codes or cause oil leaks.
If the clutch and tires were melted, I'd suspect abuse. Oil leak, I'd suspect loose oil filter or oil cooler. I had a '10 back 2010-2012... Was at the dealer 4 times for an oil cooler leak. They tried o rings, gaskets... couple times... 4th time, I suggested how about you just replace the f'n oil cooler before the summer is over. That fixed it. Then I talked to a more informed dealer...oh yeah, we've replaced a ton of coolers. Good luck, and hang in there. Start with the easy stuff...make sure the drain plug and oil filter are tight. Oil pan bolts nice and snug. Still dripping, have a competent shop take a good look at the oil cooler. On the codes, will need to go down the service manual diagnostic trees for the codes. |
10-05-2017, 10:10 PM | #6 |
Big Crow
Drives: '13 ZL1 Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: California
Posts: 1,487
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R James is correct for sure. Find where the oil leak is coming from if you can. IIRC there is some UV dye you can buy that's engine safe and a cheap UV flashlight sold online. That's one idea if you can't see where it's coming from. And if it was UV you would know it wasn't dripping from the last oil change because it didn't have dye in it then.
Any catch can lines or vents? I wouldn't further confront the paint shop. Find what's wrong first and if your confident they abused your car in a burnout or more, post it up on yelp or google reviews. Try to be reasonably sure first. Without more evidence I don't know you would win anything in small claims court which would be your next step if there is damage. Edit: IIRC the traction control light stays on for a short distance before resetting. I found this out with wheelspin exiting a car wash and wondering why the traction light was still on in a different non-camaro car. I'd read up more on the TC light and the code, but I agree it definitely points to them doing burnouts. If no damage was done nothing you can do but negative reviews. Then again, one sensor being bad or a computer could cause those lights and codes. Get it figured out before you further blame them and get upset. Last edited by silversleeper; 10-05-2017 at 10:20 PM. |
10-06-2017, 06:41 AM | #7 |
Drives: 2014 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,053
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Here is an area to check for oil leaks ... located on the flange connection between the oil cooler and the oil pan, sometimes the bolts are loose and need to be snugged up slightly to stop seepage at the gasket (carefully - they are threaded in to aluminum).
Two bolts installed here within the Yellow Box:
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10-06-2017, 07:05 AM | #8 |
old school chevy rodder
Drives: 2013 2SS/RS Manual,DM exhaust,CRT Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 5,587
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The car has speed sensors on the wheels for the stabillitrac and TC, take it too the tire store, the oil leaks you should be able to find on a rack if they are that bad. All the TC lights could be coming on from a loose PCV hose to a catch can or even the stock PCV hose loose and make stumbling usually, those lights come on for about anything including a slow start from header heat...you learn to reset battery then go from there...if its a continuing problem it will throw codes again. Many also block off the oil cooler which is more of a heater and can leak.
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10-06-2017, 07:49 AM | #9 |
Drives: 2002 Camaro SS SOM; 2015 Malibu LTZ Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Queens, NY
Posts: 4,022
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It will be hard to prove that the body shop had anything to do with it after a month. It will be especially hard since the shop didn't work on the mechanics. I would try going through the consumer goods bureau in your area and/or the Attorney General and see what type of relief they can provide for you.
Good luck. See if your bill of sale notes the mileage that you brought the car in for. That could be a good clue for you to prove abuse.
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10-06-2017, 01:28 PM | #10 |
Drives: 2015 Camaro LT Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Fox Lake, IL
Posts: 393
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I'll take a car that is driven regularly over one that sits and dry rots any day. Also, it's 7 years old, so....
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10-06-2017, 02:26 PM | #11 |
"Old School"
Drives: 2010 2SS L99 Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Sherrills Ford, NC
Posts: 1,295
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How do you know the body shop is at fault? Things go bad on vehicles, fixing the hood really doesn't have them near the problem areas you have now.
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10-06-2017, 02:33 PM | #12 |
Drives: 2015 SW 1SS/RS 1LE Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Brighton, CO
Posts: 2,736
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Did you note(take pics) mileage before/after dropping off car? That's how I busted the body shop that repaired my Camaro.
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10-06-2017, 02:51 PM | #13 |
Account Suspended
Drives: Camaro V6 Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: U.S.
Posts: 1,722
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So, you suspect them driving your car a little hard, after you left it there, and now you have oil leak
problems? Man, what kind of cars are these if you can't drive them a little hard without problems cropping up? I drive my little V6 like a rental car sometimes and I have had no problems to speak of. It still idles smooth as glass and I have no leaks or anything. Oh, I have ultra low miles too. I think basically whatever leaks you have now, after taking it to the shop, were bound to happen due to basically sitting in the garage all these years. I say just get the oil leaks fixed and move on. If a little aggressive driving causes engine problems and oil leaks to happen, I think we all bought the wrong performance/sporty cars. lol! |
10-06-2017, 03:54 PM | #14 |
Drives: 2014 2SS blue Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Socal
Posts: 689
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There is a hood sensor that disables remote start. Make sure its connected and working.
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