Started SS3 Cam Install Today

[Chris49066SS]

Very interesting! I hadn't given any thought to replace the CHEs really. Mine have 16k on them, and even though mine sees 7800rpm, and previously 7600rpm, I am not there all that often. I will try to keep mine until I go shaft mounted rockers.

[IWANTA(ss)]

Originally Posted by FasNuf

[/B]


I'm curious what you meant about BTR being sticky. Do you mean when holding the rocker and trunnion in your hand and moving the rocker back and forth? The BTR's are packed with grease. In my install video, I put the whole assembly under oil and worked it back and forth to get oil inside the bearings. They loosened right up. 10,000 miles so far and no issues.

That’s exactly what’s happening one is so tight I have to force it move

[Badbubba]

Originally Posted by demonspeed

I have a feeling there’s going to be quite a bit of thunder here about bronze trunions… just wait until it goes to LS1tech

Sorry OP for the thread hijack!

No problem. All good info and replies!!!

Will replace springs and trunions at 20k intervals.

[Badbubba]

Got the new cam inserted tonight and the retainer plate on. Put the push rods in #1. The intake pr was not traveling as much as the the exhaust. I was applying pressure to the push rods with my fingers. It wasn't until I pulled the cam forward against the plate, or close to it, that the intake pr dropped down further. Seemed like the side of the lifter was riding on the cam's bearing area. Will the cam's thrust be pulled forward after the cam gear is bolted on? Not sure how that would happen though. Concerned. Ptv would not be good. Doesn't seem correct. Possibly too much material on that cam's bearing area? Hate to pull it out and mic everything. The SS3 hardened core also seemed to have more thrust travel. Rockers are still off. Will call GPI tomorrow.
To note: I didn't notice this with the stock cam. I rotated the stock cam with the pushrods in it to see if the lifters would stay up in the trays. They did. I pushed down on the push rods to have the lifters contact the cam. I did this process a few times to check the amount of force it took to push them down. I even left it sit over night to see if they would drop. None of them dropped any amount. So I removed the push rods, spun the cam by hand, inserted the dowel rods and swapped the cam. I only inserted the push rods into #1 so I could explain to my son how the crank, cam, lifters, push rods, rockers operate. But then saw the 1st, most forward, push rod not traveling as much. The timing chain and cam gear would be the only thing I can think of that would keep the cam forward. But if there was slack in the chain it could allow the cam to walk. For instance, slack after shifting. Retainer plate torqued to the recommended 11 ft/lb. 20k miles on the vehicle. I know this is a roller cam, but the flat tappet would tend to push the cam back, not forward. I've read that with roller cams, shims can be placed between the cam gear and timing cover to control thrust, but that would make it worse. But could the cam be slightly shorter, thus increasing thrust travel because of more space between the cam and rear timing cover? Does the front timing gear set the location of the cam?

[Badbubba]

Pic of stock cam to show wear pattern location, which is on center, with minimal wear. Possibly the cam gear against the retainer plate would keep the new cam forward. But there is not really any signs of wear on the plate. Pic of plate with stock cam still installed.

[demonspeed]

Did you get a new retainer plate? The new molded-in gasket may make it seem like it has more room for movement, but I’m sure this truly isn’t the case once you get everything buttoned up.

[Badbubba]

Originally Posted by demonspeed

Did you get a new retainer plate? The new molded-in gasket may make it seem like it has more room for movement, but I’m sure this truly isn’t the case once you get everything buttoned up.

No. Plate is in great shape, no wear, not bent/warped. I plan to bolt the three bolt cam gear on without the chain to see the out come. If that affects it, I'll see by how much. Still would like the added insurance of a "longer cam" to lessen the gap at the back cover. I did not measure or compare the cams. I usually do compare parts, but wanted the cam in asap after removal of the stock cam. The potential for dropping a lifter was stressing me.

[demonspeed]

One should always replace the retainer plate because the gasket is non-reusable.

[Badbubba]

Spoke with Kevin from GPI. Apparently the cam retainer does center the cams location front to back. Being sandwiched between the cam gear and face of the front bearing. There should be a slight clearance. I'll check if I'm satisfied with enough space for #1 intake lifter to keep from hanging up. Some info in the attached link. Watch "Checking Camshaft Thrust While Cam is Not in LS Motor. C6 Build. Part 19" on YouTube
https://youtu.be/bKwt4kMx6w0

[Badbubba]

Originally Posted by demonspeed

One should always replace the retainer plate because the gasket is non-reusable.

Yeah. Thanks for the info. The gasket seemed to be in great shape. So I'll just go with it as I want to start on the springs. But if I have any delay, I'll order one.

[Badbubba]

Cam gear pulled the cam out from the cam retainer plate about 1/4"+. Leaving about, guessing, .005 clearance between the cam gear, plate and cam bearing. The cam needed pulled forward about 1/32" from the plate to allow the intake lifter to have full travel on the lobe. The cam when fully inserted was recessed about 1/8" in the plate. So it seems all is ok. Probably some over reacting from me before thinking it through.

[Badbubba]

1st start after finishing install on Memorial Day. Primed the oil pump by removing the front plug. Had 40 psi after guage sweep. Still on the bolt-ons tune.

https://youtu.be/ptd4lusvWog

2nd start, hot. Continuing to purge the cooling system. Video has better sound.

https://youtu.be/T9U4Bt2FHiQ

[1JEWLDSSRS]

Nice, well done! Sounds pretty good so far..

[acammer]

Sounds good!