03-09-2016, 07:35 PM | #15 |
Drives: 2014 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,054
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There are two part numbers on the ACDELCO bottles - smaller font part number on the bottle matches what is printed in my 2014 Owners Manual.
Here is what I used for my SS - 1st drained and then added ~3.3 ounces of this 4 ounce bottle of ACDELCO friction modifier 8890030: http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-10-400...ds=88900330%2C Then filled up the rest of the way with ACDELCO Axle Lube 88900401: http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-10-401...words=88900401 Usually ships free with Amazon Prime, or can check prices at your local dealer and avoid shipping charges. There is room to reach the drain and fill plugs without jacking up the car (no jack stands needed), i just made sure the car was sitting level. And took out the fill plug first, then the drain plug. The drain plugs are magnets and should be cleaned off to get rid of the metal particles/silver sludge that sticks to them (2014). A length of clear plastic hose pushed on to a spout cap makes filling easier or can use a pump. Ron
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2014 2SS/RS, Z28 CAI and High Wing Spoiler, ZL1 5.1:1 Ratio Short-Throw Shifter, ZL1 Pedals, ZL1 splash guards, NPP Dual-mode quad tip exhaust, Z28 strut tower brace, Camaro LED Cup-holders with footwell Lighting option, Leather visors, and Leather E-brake boot. Chevy dealer sponsored 67 retro SS nose stripe package.
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03-09-2016, 09:53 PM | #16 | ||
Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 56
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My bad and the reason why I had so many questions. It kept on not adding up as I had many tabs open and where I kept re-reading them seeing tens of oils mentioned that somehow have a coorelation but didn't. Now that I cleared that up, I realize how stupid I've been. You're right, it honestly is just a bottle of that RP and pump bottle as I have everything else. Quote:
I appreciate everything! |
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03-09-2016, 11:23 PM | #17 |
Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mich
Posts: 4,483
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I buy 2 bottles of RP max gear 75w90. Just keep filling till it starts running back out. Car should be level. So either a hoist or 4 jack stands. Usually ends up about 1 qt maybe a bit more. Save the leftover for the next change. The magnetic drain plug will have a gob of gunk on it. That's just normal material shedding off the clutches. Wipe that off. Always a lot of material stuck to the magnet on the first change.
Transmission... Buy 4 qts Royal Purple Synchromax. You'll probably be able to pump in about 3.5 qts before it is running back out. Same thing, car needs to be level when filling. There's other brands, but my luck has been best with Synchromax, seems to shift a little smoother. I'm not a big fan of their motor oils. But RP gear lubes and trans fluids seem to work really good, noticeably better than OE fluids. Once you change the rear diff lube. Go to a big parking lot and do about 8 to 10 slow figure 8s in low gear. That works the LS stuff into the clutch packs. There is a Chevy bulletin that tells dealers to do that for noisy or chattering rears. The LS additives wear out. The slows figure 8s gets all the clutches working better and the new lube worked into them. |
03-10-2016, 07:24 AM | #18 | |
Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 56
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The transmission fluid change seems a bit more complex though so I may hold off on that till I do more research. Right now it seems to involve using the fill gauge and having the engine running while you add more fluid or such :/ |
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03-10-2016, 08:56 AM | #19 | |
Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mich
Posts: 4,483
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car, differential fluid |
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