O2 Sensor Issues-Need help - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

littlejorr · 07-31-2016, 06:38 PM

I am new to this forum so please bear with me. I have a stock 2011 Camaro V6. It has about 85k. The CEL is on and reads Bank 2 Sensor 1 heater circuit. Any time in the past I have just replaced the sensor and that is that. I have changed both banks #1 sensor and rotated bank 1 sensors, with no change. I have also inspected the fuse and swapped the relay (which I believe goes to both sides). This time I'm fearing it may be an ECU, but I don't have a vehicle specific wiring diagram to know for sure.

The connector has 4 wires. one is battery/alternator power (12-14v), one is ground (~1 ohm), one is 450mV, and the last one is 2.4v with the car off and key in run position. All readings match the other bank. When I start the car, the 2.4v on bank 2 ranges from 1.8-~3v. Bank 1 stays solid at 2.4v. I believe this is a reference signal for the computer, but I do not know where it comes from or what would cause this to happen; besides a bad connection. I inspected and wiggled the crap out of the wires to see if I could get a deflection without success. Is this even a problem? Anyone have a wiring diagram specific to the V6? Anyone seen this before or have any guidance?

Most of the time, an o2 sensor is not a big deal. You can drive it and not worry about it. However, this is making my car idle unsteady, miss/generally run rough, and has even throwing it into safety mode. This mainly happens when I first start it after it sits for the weekend. Thank you in advance for your help.

*Added*
Today I disconnected the battery and the ECU for approx an hour. I also reohmed the sensors. B1S1 is 10 ohms and B2S1 is 11 ohms. The code I am getting is P0052 O2 Heater Circuit high. I reinspected the vacuum lines, but found nothing abnormal. The scanner is showing fuelsys2 OL fault (sometimes shows CL fault) and nearly everything from bank 2 has a question mark. Hooked everything back up and the car ran smooth again but the CEL came back on.

Side note - MAF was .01-.02 at idle; also, my passenger was watching my scanner as I drove today and said my rpm gauge did not match my tach. But later when I got home, it was normal.

Any more ideas?

littlejorr · 08-02-2016, 05:55 PM

Does anyone have any solid ideas?

yzark99 · 08-07-2016, 11:15 AM

Sounds like a big expense to have the dealer figure it out. I would buy some o2 extenders and screw the sensors into those. They reduce the amount of exhaust they have to measure, and this is usually enough to fool the computer that everything is fine: http://www.bigdaddiesgarage.com/stra...ddies%20Garage

JerTM · 08-07-2016, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yzark99

Sounds like a big expense to have the dealer figure it out. I would buy some o2 extenders and screw the sensors into those. They reduce the amount of exhaust they have to measure, and this is usually enough to fool the computer that everything is fine: http://www.bigdaddiesgarage.com/stra...ddies%20Garage

This will not affect a heater circuit DTC.
Since you clearly know how to use a multimeter, I would suggest checking the circuits from the PCM to the affected O2. Check for shorts to power and ground, and a good continuity check. It's likely you have a short in the wire.

firestone_ss · 08-07-2016, 12:44 PM

well if you have good power to the heater circuit then make sure the ground side is also good,it may be worth spending the 100 bucks to get it diagnosed since its starting to sound like a possible wiring or pcm issue and without diagrams your shooting in the dark.

cornerspeed92 · 08-07-2016, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yzark99

Sounds like a big expense to have the dealer figure it out. I would buy some o2 extenders and screw the sensors into those. They reduce the amount of exhaust they have to measure, and this is usually enough to fool the computer that everything is fine: http://www.bigdaddiesgarage.com/stra...ddies%20Garage

What he said! Long story short i had issues when i went High Flows. The only thing that worked were the Bigdaddies angle extenders.

littlejorr · 11-01-2016, 11:19 AM

Thank you all for your help. The final result was the computer sending a bad reference signal once the o2 sensors heated up. I ended up changing the computer. $700 and they waived the t/s fee.

08-07-2016, 11:15 AM	#3
yzark99 I run 2 catch cans... Drives: 2012 1LT SIM Auto Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: OR there Posts: 1,038 View My Garage	Sounds like a big expense to have the dealer figure it out. I would buy some o2 extenders and screw the sensors into those. They reduce the amount of exhaust they have to measure, and this is usually enough to fool the computer that everything is fine: http://www.bigdaddiesgarage.com/stra...ddies%20Garage __________________ Overkill tuned • Air Scoop • CAI • VMAX PTB • JacFab Laminator FX + Extendolator • SOLO Hi-Flo Cats + Cat-Back Exhaust View my top 3 LFX performance mods and more: .

11-01-2016, 11:19 AM	#7
littlejorr Drives: 2011 Camaro LT RS Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: OK Posts: 3 View My Garage	Update Thank you all for your help. The final result was the computer sending a bad reference signal once the o2 sensors heated up. I ended up changing the computer. $700 and they waived the t/s fee.

07-31-2016, 06:38 PM	#1
littlejorr Drives: 2011 Camaro LT RS Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: OK Posts: 3 View My Garage	O2 Sensor Issues-Need help I am new to this forum so please bear with me. I have a stock 2011 Camaro V6. It has about 85k. The CEL is on and reads Bank 2 Sensor 1 heater circuit. Any time in the past I have just replaced the sensor and that is that. I have changed both banks #1 sensor and rotated bank 1 sensors, with no change. I have also inspected the fuse and swapped the relay (which I believe goes to both sides). This time I'm fearing it may be an ECU, but I don't have a vehicle specific wiring diagram to know for sure. The connector has 4 wires. one is battery/alternator power (12-14v), one is ground (~1 ohm), one is 450mV, and the last one is 2.4v with the car off and key in run position. All readings match the other bank. When I start the car, the 2.4v on bank 2 ranges from 1.8-~3v. Bank 1 stays solid at 2.4v. I believe this is a reference signal for the computer, but I do not know where it comes from or what would cause this to happen; besides a bad connection. I inspected and wiggled the crap out of the wires to see if I could get a deflection without success. Is this even a problem? Anyone have a wiring diagram specific to the V6? Anyone seen this before or have any guidance? Most of the time, an o2 sensor is not a big deal. You can drive it and not worry about it. However, this is making my car idle unsteady, miss/generally run rough, and has even throwing it into safety mode. This mainly happens when I first start it after it sits for the weekend. Thank you in advance for your help. Added Today I disconnected the battery and the ECU for approx an hour. I also reohmed the sensors. B1S1 is 10 ohms and B2S1 is 11 ohms. The code I am getting is P0052 O2 Heater Circuit high. I reinspected the vacuum lines, but found nothing abnormal. The scanner is showing fuelsys2 OL fault (sometimes shows CL fault) and nearly everything from bank 2 has a question mark. Hooked everything back up and the car ran smooth again but the CEL came back on. Side note - MAF was .01-.02 at idle; also, my passenger was watching my scanner as I drove today and said my rpm gauge did not match my tach. But later when I got home, it was normal. Any more ideas? Last edited by littlejorr; 08-02-2016 at 05:51 PM. Reason: Added more info

08-02-2016, 05:55 PM	#2
littlejorr Drives: 2011 Camaro LT RS Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: OK Posts: 3 View My Garage	Does anyone have any solid ideas?

08-07-2016, 12:44 PM	#5
firestone_ss Drives: 2010 camaro ss Join Date: May 2009 Location: Tacoma WA Posts: 779	well if you have good power to the heater circuit then make sure the ground side is also good,it may be worth spending the 100 bucks to get it diagnosed since its starting to sound like a possible wiring or pcm issue and without diagrams your shooting in the dark.