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Old 03-08-2018, 05:37 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gajagfan View Post
I did just that. Started at the dealer, who said that they could not answer my questions of what would or would not be warranted. They were more than happy to take it apart and give me an answer, but before looking could not tell me what would or would not be covered. I told them that was not acceptable, and they suggested that I call GM which I did.

The first person I spoke with GM took my info and said that the would be getting with someone that would call me back. Later that day I got a call from my dealer, and they gave me another number at GM to call and start a case file on the problem. The dealer said that by doing this, they could move forward (not sure what that meant). I called the new number and started a case file.

There were a few different folks that I spoke with from GM on multiple occasions after a case file was created, all very nice and professional. They spoke with the dealer, and eventually got back with me and said that the dealer, and they agree, feel that the rear end had been abused and would not be warrantied. There justification was that I had admitted to sliding the car a bit through corners, which they consider abuse. I questioned them regarding their producing a car that was track oriented that could not take spirited street driving, and they again said that what I had done classified as abuse.

I, like yo do not agree, but before I spend $200 for an evaluation, to be told that I abused my car (Which I did not), I thought it better to move forward with a better product. If you have any other suggestions, I welcome them. I guess this is the old if you play your going to pay deal!
Abuse?



Were your wheel-wells full of tire boogers?
You have 15" wheels with drag slicks on them?

Something isn't right. Who is the dealer?
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Old 03-09-2018, 09:51 AM   #16
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Abuse?



Were your wheel-wells full of tire boogers?
You have 15" wheels with drag slicks on them?

Something isn't right. Who is the dealer?
Dan Vaden Chevrolet in Brunswick, GA. I have had decent luck purchasing cars from them, but dealing with Service has been a nightmare. As far as the wheels, they never even looked at the car. If they could not take the cover off and do a full inspection, they had no interest. But to answer your questions, no tire buggers or drag slicks!

On a side note, I had the tire and wheel warranty and got a puncture in the left rear. I was able to get the car home and the next day, I took the wheel and tire to the dealership for repair. They would not fix the tire because it had to much wear (stupid to get a tire warranty on these GoodYear tires I guess), but the kicker was that they would not even consider the warranty because they had no proof the wheel was off a warrantable car. The tire could be from another vehicle. I bought the 1LE from them. The 1LE I bought was still covered under the tire / wheel warranty they sold me. The wheel I brought in only comes off of a 1LE or a ZL1. With all these facts, they said that it was mandatory that I brought the car into the dealer.

The next closest non-Vaden Chevy dealer is about 1 hour away, so not so easy to get things done. As always, any thoughts or help is appreciated.
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Old 03-09-2018, 11:20 AM   #17
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Catch cans are a touchy subject . I had the clean side 1LE and a apex catch can on for a year ,and in that time I used no oil between changes and there was never any oil in the apex catch can on the dirty side , just a bit of oily film . I removed the Apex catch can and sold it and left the 1LE can in place . I use 0/40 Mobile 1 Euro formula oil and change it every 3500 to 4000 miles and use no oil . Some swear by them and have lots of oil in their catch cans , It wasn't the case with me . I never rev past 6000 , so maybe that the difference. Good luck with the new torsen , in the long run you will be better off with it anyway.
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Old 03-18-2018, 11:02 PM   #18
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GONIF,

Gajagfan, Looooooooooooooooooooves catch cans!! Loll

Look at his avatar Sherlock lol!

Deep down, he knows that this present day nightmare, would be X2 had it not been for his catch can!!



Btw, yo Gajagfan, just a food for thought. When I (proactively of course ) drained out the factory fill, OEM diff oil at a mere couple thousand km’s or so, the fluid was BLACK! Everyone around me who saw it l, was like staring at each other in silence lol.

I have since (now at 20000km) drained it total 2-3 times(I forget) with the default 75/90 Redline product (yes with the additive already premixed in it). By the last drain, it looked nice and golden, even after a few major beat downs.

Were you still on the factory fill when it started to feel tired, and loosy goosy?
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Old 03-18-2018, 11:08 PM   #19
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Catch cans are a touchy subject . I had the clean side 1LE and a apex catch can on for a year ,and in that time I used no oil between changes and there was never any oil in the apex catch can on the dirty side , just a bit of oily film . I removed the Apex catch can and sold it and left the 1LE can in place . I use 0/40 Mobile 1 Euro formula oil and change it every 3500 to 4000 miles and use no oil . Some swear by them and have lots of oil in their catch cans , It wasn't the case with me . I never rev past 6000 , so maybe that the difference. Good luck with the new torsen , in the long run you will be better off with it anyway.
my observations from this forum, have clearly shown, that Elite catch can users, for whatever reason or reasons, are the ones reporting catch cans full of oil, some even to the extreme (like myself).

I can only conclude if this is truly coincidence or sheer catch can fact, unless I swap my Elite out, for something like yours, and other types even, who never seem to collect more than 1/2 a tablespoon of oil after quote on quote ✌🏼✌🏼 , 20000 miles of hard drivin’ lol!
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Old 03-19-2018, 08:49 AM   #20
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I have an Elite on the dirty side and I change my oil every 3K miles. It's roughly 50 to 60% full at each oil change.

Car is daily driven, rarely sees above 5K RPM on the street, and as an interesting observation, I did a lot of auto-crossing last year (roughly 50 runs) and the amount of oil in the can wasn't noticeably different.
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Old 03-19-2018, 09:40 AM   #21
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You said it not me .PS: If I had just bought a damn catch can, I might not be in this boat!
Dude, he was kidding........
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Old 03-19-2018, 10:17 AM   #22
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For a control test. I do not have a catch can. And it has not caused any problems with my diff.... i will give a 30,000 mile update in 10 years when I get there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gajagfan View Post
Car has never done a burnout or seen track time.
Not even sure why you bought the car in the first place.
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Old 03-19-2018, 10:57 AM   #23
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For a control test. I do not have a catch can. And it has not caused any problems with my diff.... i will give a 30,000 mile update in 10 years when I get there.



Not even sure why you bought the car in the first place.
Track time, but life has got in the way somewhat!
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Old 03-19-2018, 10:59 AM   #24
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GONIF,

Gajagfan, Looooooooooooooooooooves catch cans!! Loll

Look at his avatar Sherlock lol!

Deep down, he knows that this present day nightmare, would be X2 had it not been for his catch can!!



Btw, yo Gajagfan, just a food for thought. When I (proactively of course ) drained out the factory fill, OEM diff oil at a mere couple thousand km’s or so, the fluid was BLACK! Everyone around me who saw it l, was like staring at each other in silence lol.

I have since (now at 20000km) drained it total 2-3 times(I forget) with the default 75/90 Redline product (yes with the additive already premixed in it). By the last drain, it looked nice and golden, even after a few major beat downs.

Were you still on the factory fill when it started to feel tired, and loosy goosy?
Yep, that first change at about 25 - 28K was the factory fill.
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Old 03-19-2018, 11:54 AM   #25
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I have always changed the factory diff fluid on a new car or truck after 1500 miles , and then 12000 miles after that every 12000 miles. I always use Redline , and I never have diff problems .
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Old 03-19-2018, 12:01 PM   #26
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I have always changed the factory diff fluid on a new car or truck after 1500 miles , and then 12000 miles after that every 12000 miles. I always use Redline , and I never have diff problems .
I probably should have done that. I followed the suggested maintenance in the owners manual. Obviously that was not a good idea. And of course, should have installed a catch can!
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