New radiator/ coolant burping

[AGM 1LE]

I just installed a new Dewitt's Radiator and am at the point of burping the air out of the system. I filled the radiator full of coolant/water mix and the overflow bottle was about 1/3 full.
I started the car with the rad cap off and the heat/ defroster blasting. The coolant in the rad started to get a bunch of tiny bubbles in it and looked kind of foamy. It got up to about 176*F before i had to shut it off because it was starting to overflow the radiator and go everywhere so the T-stat never opened up (and the hose from the T-stat was soft and cold). The level never dropped like I was expecting.
I checked all of the connections to/from the rad and all where clean and dry, nothing leaking out of them.
Any suggestions on how to get this guy bled and running?
Thanks

[AGM 1LE]

I ran it again with the rad cap on. It got up to 205*F with the fans on before I shut it off. I waited till cooled down to open the cap and the rad still full with the over flow tank same as before

[CFD]

Everyone has different ways of bleeding them. I find the easiest thing to do is disconnect the upper radiator hose from the radiator, hold it up and you can pour the antifreeze in the hose and fill the block, makes it fast and easy. Make sure it's not hot when you do it.

[AGM 1LE]

Thanks, I'll try that after work today

[AGM 1LE]

Tried that. I pulled the upper hose off and it was already full of liquid (spilled down the drip tray and onto the subframe/ underbody panel). I held it up and nothing would flow out to the block side. Hooked it back up and started the car with the rad cap off. The water did nothing till it read 200 in the car and then it started bubbling a little then foamy and starting to overflow. Shut it off, water level never lowered.
Is that how it would act if it's mostly bled or still not good?

[CFD]

Originally Posted by AGM 1LE

Tried that. I pulled the upper hose off and it was already full of liquid (spilled down the drip tray and onto the subframe/ underbody panel). I held it up and nothing would flow out to the block side. Hooked it back up and started the car with the rad cap off. The water did nothing till it read 200 in the car and then it started bubbling a little then foamy and starting to overflow. Shut it off, water level never lowered.
Is that how it would act if it's mostly bled or still not good?

If the upper hose is full then the block is close to full. The bubbling may be the thermostat starting to open. The system may be full so try running it with the cap on, let it get a bit hotter, you may be shutting it off right before the fans kick on. A few things come to mind, how much fluid have you put in it? Are you sure the fans are connected and working?

[Russell James]

Does this new radiator have a nipple for the small crossover tube that goes from head to head, then t's to the radiator? That small hose burbs out the air in the top of the motor to the top of the radiator.

The service manual has the procedure for purging the air out. Start cold with rad cap off. One person in car holding rpms between 1500 and 2000, and watching temp gauge. Second person adding coolant as necessary to rad.

When the coolant is rushing rapidly, the thermostat just opened. Keep adding as needed. Should take maybe 3 mins. If you don't ever see the change from coolant just sitting there to rushing fast... something is wrong, T stat or pump or huge air pocket.

Some cars that are tough to get the air pockets out, may need to raise the front about ramp height. Repeat the 2-3 min cold start with 2000 ish rpm. In some cars, unless you raise the rpms like that the pump is not flowing enough to blow the air pockets out.

Takes two people to purge a car right, with an electronic throttle.

[AGM 1LE]

Fans are working, I can see them coming on. I put about 9 quarts of liquid in, 8 came out originally. But this rad has way more capacity than stock.
It has the crossover tune and its hooked up. It must be a big air pocket since it looks like as soon as the tstat opens the rad starts to overflow and I have to shut it off

[AGM 1LE]

I sucked a little liquid off the top of the rad so it wouldn't overflow again. Ran it with the cover off. It would get to 207 and no higher. I ran it at 1700 rpm for a minute or 2 and it would drop back to 196ish. There is definetly older coolant on the rad now, it looks less clean then the new stuff. Still no drop in level as I was expecting.

[CFD]

Sounds like it's circulating properly. There's no drop in fluid level because the block is full as evident by no fluid being able to be added through the top hose.

[AGM 1LE]

I guess I got lucky and didn't empty the block that much when draining it. I'll drive it around and check on the coolant level after

[AGM 1LE]

Drove it around, temps leveled in the 190s the whole ride. Checked the rad and it was full to the bottom of the cap and the overflow bottle was on the full line. Guess I'm good now.

[4.0=SS]

I overheated my 2010 SS while changing coolant. Now my heater smells like a hot iron. Anyone experienced this? Any solutions? Don’t want to spend $3000 on a heater core swap😉