01-30-2013, 07:18 PM | #29 |
Drives: chevy Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: cleveland ohio
Posts: 847
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Best of luck to u sir please keep us updated
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01-30-2013, 07:35 PM | #30 |
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Here is a link to 2 tools to install the new balancer when you get things worked out.
Best of luck Works on LS7 as well. it is longer than the LS3 specific installer. http://www.coloradospeed.com/hawk-ls...7-p-18291.html Or this one does many different makes of cars. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/po...1100/overview/
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LPE 417 - TVS2300 787 RWHP 759 Torque - Built by WWW.KYSPEED.COM
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01-30-2013, 07:43 PM | #31 |
Blown Cool Breeze
Drives: 2011 Black on Black 2SS M6 Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pinehurst NC
Posts: 1,027
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Good Luck Man.
The tool listed above from Summit works very well and the price won't break the bank. A must have for anyone pulling a Balancer
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2011 Black on Black 2SS M6
Had a 2010 IBM 2SS M6 Enjoy life.Think of all the women on the Titanic who passed up dessert. |
01-30-2013, 08:43 PM | #32 |
Seeking 9s on M6...
Drives: 2012 2SS/RS LS3 aka "BlackWidow" Join Date: May 2012
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 397
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Thanks! I just bought the one from Summit, with hopes i'll be using it sooner than later... Hope to get the drill bit on Friday. Will let you know how it goes.
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01-30-2013, 09:28 PM | #33 |
Drives: Silver 2SS, 68 Firebird 400,70 vett Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: clear lake
Posts: 240
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So the one from Summit will work on Ls motors? LS3 in particular?
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02-04-2013, 11:04 PM | #34 |
Seeking 9s on M6...
Drives: 2012 2SS/RS LS3 aka "BlackWidow" Join Date: May 2012
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 397
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Well, I think my original post was accurate...I was screwed.
So i received my recover bit and it drilled through the ARP bolt like butter, but the hole was only 1/4 inch. Then talking w/my Dad, he had a set of carbide diamond head bits that were larger and also able to cut right through the ARP bolt (made me feel like a wasted $100 on the rescue bit). So i had a large hole down the middle of the bolt. (Step 1) Next, I found some kroil lubricant online (which was in an article I found on how to remove a snapped balancer bolt from the crank). I filled up behind the bolt w/the kroil. I removed the oil pump so I could head the crank until the kroil started to boil (i learned the hard way to remove the timing chain tensioner - i had a foil heat shield for the heat gun, but slightly melted the chain tensioner anyway...oops - i removed it after the first time). Theoretically the crank is supposed to expand while the steam from the kroil seeps into the treads and lubricates the snapped bolt. After it started to cool, i put the largest easy out i could find into the hole, got a good grip and used an impact air gun to try to turn it. I didn't really expect it to turn, but was hoping the impact might help get the kroil to seep in and who knows, maybe i'd get lucky. I repeated this numerous times. In the end, I heated it up one last time, but the 1/2" ratchet on the ez out and started putting more and more torque on it. Added the cheater bar, and snapped the ez out. I pretty much expected that to happen. Not sure what else i could have tried. if i really wanted to, i'm sure i could get the ezout out, but don't really see the point. It appears the bolt has become one with the crank. I could drill out the entire bolt, but that would result in even more thread damage than i already have. I just don't think i would trust re-tapping the crank. So time to pull the engine, replace the crank :(, and while i'm at it...replace the pistons and rods w/forged internals . I expected to get many more years out of my bottom end, and this is not the way i expected it to go, but it happened...so i guess its time to go all in. If anyone can point me to a DIY on pulling your motor...stripping the block...etc., i would really appreciate it. I really thought i had a shot at salvaging it, but i guess now the question is Wiseco or Mahle or other... .
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02-04-2013, 11:14 PM | #35 | |
Drives: G5.R Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,377
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Quote:
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02-04-2013, 11:32 PM | #36 | |
Seeking 9s on M6...
Drives: 2012 2SS/RS LS3 aka "BlackWidow" Join Date: May 2012
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 397
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Quote:
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02-05-2013, 05:14 AM | #37 |
V8 Lounge member #2
Drives: 2001 Ws6 Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Burbank,IL
Posts: 6,373
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Nathan your a top notch member!!!
I was hoping for a better outcome, but like I say if you gotta go in might as well upgrade while your in there.
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2001 ws6, 40k miles, Ls3 416 stroker, short block built by PER the rest by me. LPE Ls3 heads milled to 12-1 comp, FAST 102, NW 102, kooks 2", dual DMH cutouts, Magnaflow C/B, BTR cam + springs. Full UMI suspension.
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02-05-2013, 05:27 AM | #38 | |
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Quote:
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LPE 417 - TVS2300 787 RWHP 759 Torque - Built by WWW.KYSPEED.COM
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02-05-2013, 08:01 AM | #39 |
Drives: 2006 Z06 Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 5,712
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Tons of good pistons. I'm running livernois pistons made by Ross, but Diamond, Mahle, Wiesco are all good.
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Nick
Corvette Z06 -1200ish rwhp |
02-05-2013, 08:18 AM | #40 |
Drives: Black '13 2SS/RS/1LE w/NPP/NAV Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tampa by way of Miami...
Posts: 4,934
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Damn... I was hoping this would turn out better. Sorry bro. Time for a stroker motor?
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02-05-2013, 09:26 AM | #41 |
Drives: Anything I want Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: DfW - Texas
Posts: 5,405
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I have several cranks in stock as well.I even have a forged ctsv crank that has a key slot in it from the factory.Only problem is that it has 8 bolt instead of 6.
Would at a good be willing to sell. Andy |
02-05-2013, 11:53 AM | #42 |
Drives: 2012 SS LS3 | Silver Frost Metallic Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Illinois
Posts: 342
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NM, just saw your post above....
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Ironman John |
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