amp overheating - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Arogg · 05-04-2018, 08:17 AM

So my amp in the trunk that powers my 2 12's is overheating. Its relatively new since the old one was overheating and it was recommended to put a new one in. Everything is wired correctly. I have the FARK kit and replaced the stock amp and added another amp for the subs. Any idea why the amp controlling the subs keeps overheating but the other one is fine?! Its finally starting to warm up in ny and of course that means 15 mins into my drive, subs cut out. Any tips or tricks or something I may be missing? Ive been dealing with this for over 2 years lol

beak81champ · 05-04-2018, 10:30 AM

Which amp? Which subs? Is the impedance matched? Are you sending a clipped signal? Where is the amp mounted?

Arogg · 05-04-2018, 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beak81champ

Which amp? Which subs? Is the impedance matched? Are you sending a clipped signal? Where is the amp mounted?

The amp is a Pioneer GM-A5602, Subs are older kicker 12's. The amp is mounted to the floor of the trunk, in front of the sub box. Everything works perfectly until the weather gets warm, then I guess it just gets too hot. I mean, I cant even touch the thing.

beak81champ · 05-04-2018, 07:49 PM

Are the subs wired to 2 ohms or higher, because that amp won’t push a 1 ohm load or lower. I have both my amps sitting on my trunk floor with no issues. Sounds like an issue with the amp, internally, since it is getting super hot to the touch. If it was the same temp as the air in the trunk, it would be warm to the touch, but not painfully hot. Do you have an audio shop in your area that will bench test it? They do it here for $5. That would rule out that part of the problem.

Arogg · 05-07-2018, 09:34 AM

The subs are wired at 3.8ohms. It was checked yesterday. Im literally at a loss. THis is the 2nd amp ive tried and still overheats. Im at the point where Im ready to just go buy all new stuff and throw it in there since what I have is old anyway.

Leo72793 · 05-08-2018, 09:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arogg

The subs are wired at 3.8ohms. It was checked yesterday. Im literally at a loss. THis is the 2nd amp ive tried and still overheats. Im at the point where Im ready to just go buy all new stuff and throw it in there since what I have is old anyway.

Hmm... proper ground? peoper size wire? Proper Type of wire? IS the gain maxed out? Theres more factors but those are the main ones.

bayarea408 · 05-30-2018, 04:34 PM

Lol turn the gain down if its past the half mark.

Are your 12's 2 or 4 ohm?

2 12's outta that tiny pioneer you should wire it how its intended dual 4ohm or dual 2 ohm

I have played with alot of systems even funky JL audio 3 ohm stuff. How do you wire 2 12's to pull 3.8 ohm?

You need to crutchfield Diagram the wires properly i have a strong feeling its wired down to 1 ohm.

Arogg · 05-31-2018, 07:58 AM

Sorry guys for not updating this. I wound up ripping it all out and replacing everything with new JL audio subs and amp. Everything bumps real hard now and no heat issues whatsoever

beak81champ · 05-31-2018, 05:23 PM

Excellent choice!

05-04-2018, 08:17 AM	#1
Arogg A legend in his own mind Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: May 2013 Location: Long Island, New York Posts: 827	amp overheating So my amp in the trunk that powers my 2 12's is overheating. Its relatively new since the old one was overheating and it was recommended to put a new one in. Everything is wired correctly. I have the FARK kit and replaced the stock amp and added another amp for the subs. Any idea why the amp controlling the subs keeps overheating but the other one is fine?! Its finally starting to warm up in ny and of course that means 15 mins into my drive, subs cut out. Any tips or tricks or something I may be missing? Ive been dealing with this for over 2 years lol __________________ 2010 2SS/RS "The Mistress" Color matched OEM GFX / VIS Carbon Fiber Hood (absolute trash quality and customer service ) / Heritage Grille / 5% Windows / 30% Windshield tint with 5% visor strip / Tinted Exterior Lights / Streetfighter LA Spoiler / Morimoto XB LED fogs / LED sidemarkers / Airaid CAI / Hurst Short Throw / TSP LT's / No cats / No resonator / Corsa Xtreme Catback / Trifecta Tune / Factory amp replaced / 2 JL Audio 12's in the trunk / MRR 228 Wheels / BMR Springs / Moog Endlinks / R1 Concepts Rotors & Pads

05-04-2018, 10:30 AM	#2
beak81champ ILSQ Drives: '13 2SS/RS Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Flatlands Posts: 322	Which amp? Which subs? Is the impedance matched? Are you sending a clipped signal? Where is the amp mounted? __________________ Way too many mods to list, and just getting started...

05-04-2018, 07:49 PM	#4
beak81champ ILSQ Drives: '13 2SS/RS Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Flatlands Posts: 322	Are the subs wired to 2 ohms or higher, because that amp won’t push a 1 ohm load or lower. I have both my amps sitting on my trunk floor with no issues. Sounds like an issue with the amp, internally, since it is getting super hot to the touch. If it was the same temp as the air in the trunk, it would be warm to the touch, but not painfully hot. Do you have an audio shop in your area that will bench test it? They do it here for $5. That would rule out that part of the problem. __________________ Way too many mods to list, and just getting started...

05-07-2018, 09:34 AM	#5
Arogg A legend in his own mind Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: May 2013 Location: Long Island, New York Posts: 827	The subs are wired at 3.8ohms. It was checked yesterday. Im literally at a loss. THis is the 2nd amp ive tried and still overheats. Im at the point where Im ready to just go buy all new stuff and throw it in there since what I have is old anyway. __________________ 2010 2SS/RS "The Mistress" Color matched OEM GFX / VIS Carbon Fiber Hood (absolute trash quality and customer service ) / Heritage Grille / 5% Windows / 30% Windshield tint with 5% visor strip / Tinted Exterior Lights / Streetfighter LA Spoiler / Morimoto XB LED fogs / LED sidemarkers / Airaid CAI / Hurst Short Throw / TSP LT's / No cats / No resonator / Corsa Xtreme Catback / Trifecta Tune / Factory amp replaced / 2 JL Audio 12's in the trunk / MRR 228 Wheels / BMR Springs / Moog Endlinks / R1 Concepts Rotors & Pads

05-31-2018, 07:58 AM	#8
Arogg A legend in his own mind Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: May 2013 Location: Long Island, New York Posts: 827	Sorry guys for not updating this. I wound up ripping it all out and replacing everything with new JL audio subs and amp. Everything bumps real hard now and no heat issues whatsoever __________________ 2010 2SS/RS "The Mistress" Color matched OEM GFX / VIS Carbon Fiber Hood (absolute trash quality and customer service ) / Heritage Grille / 5% Windows / 30% Windshield tint with 5% visor strip / Tinted Exterior Lights / Streetfighter LA Spoiler / Morimoto XB LED fogs / LED sidemarkers / Airaid CAI / Hurst Short Throw / TSP LT's / No cats / No resonator / Corsa Xtreme Catback / Trifecta Tune / Factory amp replaced / 2 JL Audio 12's in the trunk / MRR 228 Wheels / BMR Springs / Moog Endlinks / R1 Concepts Rotors & Pads

05-30-2018, 04:34 PM	#7
bayarea408 Drives: T Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: CA Posts: 803	Lol turn the gain down if its past the half mark. Are your 12's 2 or 4 ohm? 2 12's outta that tiny pioneer you should wire it how its intended dual 4ohm or dual 2 ohm I have played with alot of systems even funky JL audio 3 ohm stuff. How do you wire 2 12's to pull 3.8 ohm? You need to crutchfield Diagram the wires properly i have a strong feeling its wired down to 1 ohm.

05-31-2018, 05:23 PM	#9
beak81champ ILSQ Drives: '13 2SS/RS Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Flatlands Posts: 322	Excellent choice! __________________ Way too many mods to list, and just getting started...