Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com
 
dave@hennessey
Go Back   Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com > General Camaro Forums > Camaro ZL1 Forum - ZL1 Specific Topics


Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 10-20-2020, 04:38 PM   #1
Astatenate
 
Astatenate's Avatar
 
Drives: 2015 ZL1
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Little Rock
Posts: 175
Upgrade oil pump? Oil type? Spun bearing LSA issues

So I’ve been hearing around my power level (700whp) I should look into upgrading my oil pump when I install cam. I currently use M1 5w30. As I’ve ran M1 in all my cars. And had good results. I was told 5w40 is also an option once you get above 700 whp. And 0w40 would increase oil pressure but less flow. So it’s counter balancing the problem. Which could make problems worse. I’ve had no bearing issue out of my car. And I want to keep it that way. I’m all about preventative maintenance.

Just curious as to what people think...

Should I switch to 5w40? 0w40? Keep it at 5w30.

Upgrade oil pump when I install cam?

I’ve heard aside from SC isolator issue. The only other issue with these motors are oil pressure / spun rod bearing issues. So I’m trying to fix before I do cam install.

Also going to do trunnion when I install cam. I’d like to stick with recommended oil (5w30) unless 5w40 is better. And don’t mind $175-200 peace of mind oil pump upgrade when I install cam. Just looking for opinions! Thanks
__________________
703WHP/ 682TQ | DSX aux pump & FF sensor| 1200cc FIC Injectors | Lingfelter 10.0 pulley & ATI damper | RotoFab Intake | ZZ Performance solid isolator | Kooks Headers | Corsa Catback | AFCO dual fan HX | Reinforced IC brick | AEM 3-in-1 Gauge | GPI Tuned | Carbon Fiber WickerBill | Morimoto Tail-lights | WELD S71 + ET STREET Rs
Astatenate is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2020, 05:38 PM   #2
JB'sZL1

 
Drives: 2013 ZL1 and 2019 Ram Laramie
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Milwaukee
Posts: 1,100
I'm running more hp than you and am running 5w30. Of course, do the trunnions, oil pump and isolator.
JB'sZL1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2020, 08:26 PM   #3
Astatenate
 
Astatenate's Avatar
 
Drives: 2015 ZL1
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Little Rock
Posts: 175
Quote:
Originally Posted by JB'sZL1 View Post
I'm running more hp than you and am running 5w30. Of course, do the trunnions, oil pump and isolator.
Yeah I am dead set on the trunnions, and isolator is already installed.

What oil pump should I go with? And Ill stick with M1 5w30 as well. Thanks man!
__________________
703WHP/ 682TQ | DSX aux pump & FF sensor| 1200cc FIC Injectors | Lingfelter 10.0 pulley & ATI damper | RotoFab Intake | ZZ Performance solid isolator | Kooks Headers | Corsa Catback | AFCO dual fan HX | Reinforced IC brick | AEM 3-in-1 Gauge | GPI Tuned | Carbon Fiber WickerBill | Morimoto Tail-lights | WELD S71 + ET STREET Rs
Astatenate is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2020, 09:28 PM   #4
Astatenate
 
Astatenate's Avatar
 
Drives: 2015 ZL1
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Little Rock
Posts: 175
Name:  oil-pump1.PNG
Views: 299
Size:  544.0 KB
Name:  oil-pump.jpg
Views: 290
Size:  130.2 KB

I was reading the ONLY real upgrade since the LSA and Melling 10355 are the exact same. The new (just released Nov 2019) that they have a 10355HV (high volume) oil pump. And it pumps +20psi/20% more than the LSA. Seems like a good upgrade!

Info here - https://fiinterchillers.com/lsa-oil-system-guide/
__________________
703WHP/ 682TQ | DSX aux pump & FF sensor| 1200cc FIC Injectors | Lingfelter 10.0 pulley & ATI damper | RotoFab Intake | ZZ Performance solid isolator | Kooks Headers | Corsa Catback | AFCO dual fan HX | Reinforced IC brick | AEM 3-in-1 Gauge | GPI Tuned | Carbon Fiber WickerBill | Morimoto Tail-lights | WELD S71 + ET STREET Rs
Astatenate is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2020, 08:29 PM   #5
snowcatter
 
snowcatter's Avatar
 
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Coupe M6
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Priest River
Posts: 41
Is it really necessary to replace the oil pump when the issue is the stupid VVT bypass valve? If the valve isn't removed an oil pump upgrade is pointless.
snowcatter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2020, 08:34 PM   #6
xdamxincx
 
xdamxincx's Avatar
 
Drives: zl1 blk
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: sth fl
Posts: 45
ive done a lot of research on this subject after having a lifter get stuck.... our motors are factory built with some pretty tight clearances ..
with that said when i had my motor rebuilt all clearances were opened up .oo5... i also opted to go with the melling 355(cuz iwanted new )with the high pressure spring along with plugging the oil pan bypass ..we also did away with the piston oil squirters because my motor is fully forged and stroked now.. .. i feel i should be good to go from here on out..

the ls engine family is known for these dam lifter/oiling and clearance issues... but its not every motor ..i have a few .. but from my experience and research.. its very important to keep good clean oil in these motors. and i would not go with a thicker oil if anything i would go thinner to help with volume and flow... another thing is oil temperature ... s/c motors demand a lot from the oil and abuse the shit out of it ..

the dart next block is designed with better oiling if that tells u anything.. i know the sbc world wasnt this picky when it came to its oiling...and last but not least is the oil filter .. the oil filters we use also have by pass when they get to a certain amount of back pressure which then bypass's the filter and lets unclean oil thru the motor.. wix makes a non bypass filter and is what i wll be using.. just need to watch oil pressure closely and temp. i will be upgrading my oil cooler as well..

the lsa oil pump is generated towards more volume and apparently gm isnt concerned with high pressure as the pan regulates the pressure to around 50-55psi.. you have to remember there is a lot of travel and expected coverage for the oil when u have 8 piston squirters so i would think high volume is as important as high pressure in an lsa..

that oil filter chart above is correct .. i spoke with melling a month ago and confirmed the chart and percentages.

Last edited by xdamxincx; 10-22-2020 at 08:53 PM.
xdamxincx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2020, 08:54 PM   #7
snowcatter
 
snowcatter's Avatar
 
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Coupe M6
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Priest River
Posts: 41
Curious why you would want to eliminate the piston oil squirters? They are proven to lower combustion temperature which is why diesel engines use them.
snowcatter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2020, 08:59 PM   #8
xdamxincx
 
xdamxincx's Avatar
 
Drives: zl1 blk
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: sth fl
Posts: 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by snowcatter View Post
Is it really necessary to replace the oil pump when the issue is the stupid VVT bypass valve? If the valve isn't removed an oil pump upgrade is pointless.
the lsa oil pump is just fine but a new oil pump is kind of a no brainer if ur pulling it off anyway.....or the 355hv which is said to do more volume... but pulling the pan to delete the bypass is a big ordeal.. but worth it ..imo
xdamxincx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2020, 09:06 PM   #9
xdamxincx
 
xdamxincx's Avatar
 
Drives: zl1 blk
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: sth fl
Posts: 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by snowcatter View Post
Curious why you would want to eliminate the piston oil squirters? They are proven to lower combustion temperature which is why diesel engines use them.
well first the crank and rods were hitting them.. also they arent in the dart next block or lsx blocks.. plus i have better pistons.. and i have friends with 1500 hp ctsv's and vettes that dont have any piston oil squirters..its a personal preference.. but i think there just needs to be way more volume and psi to balance 8 extra holes to bleed pressure off .. kind of a catch 22.. also im not going to be pushing my motor over 1k hp .. i feel confident
xdamxincx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2020, 01:58 PM   #10
Astatenate
 
Astatenate's Avatar
 
Drives: 2015 ZL1
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Little Rock
Posts: 175
Quote:
Originally Posted by xdamxincx View Post
the lsa oil pump is just fine but a new oil pump is kind of a no brainer if ur pulling it off anyway.....or the 355hv which is said to do more volume... but pulling the pan to delete the bypass is a big ordeal.. but worth it ..imo
So upgrading to the 355hv and eliminating the bypass valve is my best combo?
__________________
703WHP/ 682TQ | DSX aux pump & FF sensor| 1200cc FIC Injectors | Lingfelter 10.0 pulley & ATI damper | RotoFab Intake | ZZ Performance solid isolator | Kooks Headers | Corsa Catback | AFCO dual fan HX | Reinforced IC brick | AEM 3-in-1 Gauge | GPI Tuned | Carbon Fiber WickerBill | Morimoto Tail-lights | WELD S71 + ET STREET Rs
Astatenate is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2020, 03:00 PM   #11
snowcatter
 
snowcatter's Avatar
 
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Coupe M6
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Priest River
Posts: 41
That bypass valve should be deleted on every LSA...it is only there because they are using the LS3 oil pan which utilizes VVT. It bypasses any oil pressure over 50PSI if memory serves. The LSA has no use for it, in fact the Cadillac LSA doesn't have it because it uses a different oil pan.
snowcatter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2020, 11:44 PM   #12
xdamxincx
 
xdamxincx's Avatar
 
Drives: zl1 blk
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: sth fl
Posts: 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by Astatenate View Post
So upgrading to the 355hv and eliminating the bypass valve is my best combo?
i know of some people running stock lsa oil pumps and no bypass in ctsv's with dart blocks and 1300 hp.
I do not know of anyone running the 355hv... but i dont see the harm even if you dont do the bypass delete .

i believe the bearing issues are related to bearing clearance and oil.. there is less room for error when you have a tight clearance.. like if you use crappy oil ,, dont change the oil soon enuf .. or get the oil too hot .and demand too much from the oil ..and probly more variables outside my knowledge..its really hard to pinpoint bearing failure when there should not be bearing falure.. could be a faulty bearing .. could of been an assembly mishap .one main just might be too tight compared to others...another thing is an aluminum motor grows more than a steel block so getting to operating temp is important .. some people jump in ..fire it up .. and rev it to the moon ...lol .. but man the miss function spectrum is broad when it comes to engine mishaps..

Last edited by xdamxincx; 10-26-2020 at 12:00 AM.
xdamxincx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2020, 10:24 AM   #13
Astatenate
 
Astatenate's Avatar
 
Drives: 2015 ZL1
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Little Rock
Posts: 175
Quote:
Originally Posted by snowcatter View Post
That bypass valve should be deleted on every LSA...it is only there because they are using the LS3 oil pan which utilizes VVT. It bypasses any oil pressure over 50PSI if memory serves. The LSA has no use for it, in fact the Cadillac LSA doesn't have it because it uses a different oil pan.
Sounds good to me! Bypass delete it is! Anyone got a DIY or a “how to” on how to do it? Pretty simple or hard?

Quote:
Originally Posted by xdamxincx View Post
i know of some people running stock lsa oil pumps and no bypass in ctsv's with dart blocks and 1300 hp.
I do not know of anyone running the 355hv... but i dont see the harm even if you dont do the bypass delete .

[continued...]
I feel ya on that. I figure why not upgrade it. Have a bit more oil pressure and delete the bypass as a win win...?!
__________________
703WHP/ 682TQ | DSX aux pump & FF sensor| 1200cc FIC Injectors | Lingfelter 10.0 pulley & ATI damper | RotoFab Intake | ZZ Performance solid isolator | Kooks Headers | Corsa Catback | AFCO dual fan HX | Reinforced IC brick | AEM 3-in-1 Gauge | GPI Tuned | Carbon Fiber WickerBill | Morimoto Tail-lights | WELD S71 + ET STREET Rs
Astatenate is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2020, 08:03 PM   #14
xdamxincx
 
xdamxincx's Avatar
 
Drives: zl1 blk
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: sth fl
Posts: 45
the oil bypass delete requires taking the oil pan off... which requires pulling the engine out ...
xdamxincx is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:34 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.