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Old 03-05-2015, 09:33 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billbathgate View Post
Hey bud nice post just wanted to ask a couple questions .did u use lock tight or Teflon tape on the drain and fill plugs and how much exactly should u pour in ..I think I'm a go with the royal purple stuff ...who do you know if it's not to much or to little
I appreciate the help....
Do not use lock time or teflon tape on the plugs. They have o-rings to seal and you need to torque the plug to the correct spec to prevent a leak caused by over-tightening and tearing the o-ring. Here's a picture of how mine looked on it's first change. That black stuff is the metal that attached to the magnetic plug after 2000 miles.
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Old 03-30-2015, 06:04 AM   #86
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Lots of good info! Going to be doing this here maybe next week.
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Old 02-12-2016, 09:01 AM   #87
H1Chester
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Hey guys I'm trying to do this, starting with the fill bolt and it will NOT move for me, and I'm afraid the bolt is going to strip. Any suggestions? I am debating taking the car to the "Stealership" since they've got the lift.

Edit:
Just got off the phone with dealership, they'll charge about $85 for the labor... I tried using the standard square socket (as shown in picture on the first post, and also in a youtube video) on a long extension to try to get the top bolt loose, but it just slides out and just starting to strip a little bit.

What is the exact size drain plug socket? My next option is to actually get the right size square socket to see if that works. If still a problem I think I'll have to take the car in.
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“LUCILLE” 2010 RJT 2SS/RS M6
5% tint, AC red interior overhead LED, footwell, grill and engine bay lighting, license plate LEDs, reverse LEDs, painted black badges, bowtie, and tail light bezels, Heritage grill, T3 ports with LEDs, T3 splitter with cooler, carbon fiber vinyl hashmarks, TSW Nurburgring wheels, Nitto Invo tires, Hurst shifter, RX 1LE catch can, Rotofab intake, American Racing headers, Flowmaster exhaust, CMS camshaft, 3.91 rear end, BMR suspension, StopTech rotors, steel brake lines 456RWHP 422Tq on Mustang Dynamometer. Built, tuned by Cunningham Motorsports. SD Region SCCA

Last edited by H1Chester; 02-12-2016 at 09:31 AM. Reason: Update
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Old 02-12-2016, 01:11 PM   #88
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Alright guys, I think I got it. When I went back to check the bolt again it just so happens that the last time I had the wrench on it it must have turned enough. I was able to remove the bolt with my fingers.

Continued with the job... I ended up having to buy a 3/8" socket wrench with a long handle for the drain plug to have enough moment arm to get it loose. Also just ran out to the store again, and got a second bottle of fluid. I used the "stuff the whole bottle up there and squeeze method". I got a second bottle because I have about 4 oz left in the original bottle and some of the new fluid dripped out as I was squeezing the new stuff in.

All I have left is a couple squirts of the new bottle, and put in the fill plug, wish me luck!
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“LUCILLE” 2010 RJT 2SS/RS M6
5% tint, AC red interior overhead LED, footwell, grill and engine bay lighting, license plate LEDs, reverse LEDs, painted black badges, bowtie, and tail light bezels, Heritage grill, T3 ports with LEDs, T3 splitter with cooler, carbon fiber vinyl hashmarks, TSW Nurburgring wheels, Nitto Invo tires, Hurst shifter, RX 1LE catch can, Rotofab intake, American Racing headers, Flowmaster exhaust, CMS camshaft, 3.91 rear end, BMR suspension, StopTech rotors, steel brake lines 456RWHP 422Tq on Mustang Dynamometer. Built, tuned by Cunningham Motorsports. SD Region SCCA
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Old 03-01-2016, 01:37 PM   #89
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I've got the 2010 2SS here with L99. My manual says

"Rear Differential Fluid 75W-90 Limited Slip(GM Part No. U.S. 89021677 and Friction Modifier 1052358,
in Canada 89021678 and Friction Modifier 992694)."

Should I use the Redline? I've noted that some people say it doesn't have the friction modifier. What should I buy as a friction modifier then?

Also, what jacks do you guys recommend? I don't have any tools at the moment to lift the car up. If you could give me some Amazon links, I'd appreciate it
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Old 05-02-2016, 12:05 AM   #90
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Is this just one quart?
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Old 05-02-2016, 04:37 AM   #91
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Yes

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Old 05-03-2016, 04:47 PM   #92
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so did part number 88900401 replace part number 89021677?
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Old 05-03-2016, 07:03 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sterlingRPI View Post
so did part number 88900401 replace part number 89021677?
According to this thread, yes http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/76-...etic-lube.html

According to those truck people, it already has friction modifier in it? I dunno
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Old 05-04-2016, 11:12 AM   #94
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Just changed my differential fluid for the first time last week at 70,000 miles. The metal on the drain and fill plug magnets did not look any worse than the pics of those that people are changing at under 10,000 miles.

I used the grape scent AC Delco 75W-90 and one entire bottle of AC Delco friction modifier. I used the squeeze and fill method by attaching a 2 foot section of fuel hose to the nipple of the bottle with a small hose clamp. I squeezed in a bit of the oil first and them dumped the bottle of modifier into what was left of the oil in the gear oil bottle and filled up the differential until the oil spilled out the fill hole.

Easy...
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Old 05-22-2016, 04:55 PM   #95
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The latest part numbers from GM for differential oil is 88862624 which now has the friction modifier in it.
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Old 09-25-2016, 10:17 PM   #96
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Thanks

Just completed this task for the first time and this guide was excellent! Just wanted to say thanks. Also wanted to say thanks for the "figure 8" suggestion, my local church parking lot has some nice tire marks.

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Old 09-26-2016, 11:40 AM   #97
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Just did this over the weekend (I'm at 35K). You guys weren't kidding, that stuff stinks. Replaced with Amsoil and their additive. I'm not sure how much of this is in my head but it seems smoother especially at low speeds. Good stuff.
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Old 11-18-2016, 11:29 AM   #98
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I change my differential fluid in all my vehicles every other oil change. It is cheap simple insurance. Any contamination is removed (water, shavings, and anything else). You are less likely to tear a seal. Bearings will last longer. My Land Rover lr3 still has its original differentials. Many owners had new differentials replaced under warranty. I think this shows what fresh fluid can do . I've never had a diff seal leak or any other problem with any rear or four wheel drive I've had. Same for changing my coolant every two years, Well worth it.
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