Tom Henry Racing THR22 2010/LS3/IBM/Supercharged SS Camaro [COTW 10/29/12]

[PQ]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

We sync them to the Atomic clock for optimal function in relation to the earth's magnetic fields.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135483

While some lower their cars just for the look, many lower their cars for improved function. To get the full benefit of lowering coils, you need an alignment tech that understands performance vehicles and lowered vehicles.

The first step in proper alignment on a lowered car is to break loose the bolts at every rotational suspension bolt. That would include the the radius and inner control arm bolts up front. In the rear, the trailing arm, toe link, upper and lower control arm at the knuckle and he lower inner. The car then should be at least bounced. The prefered method is driven gently slowly around the ship parking lot. With the weight of the vehicle on the wheels all the bolts are made tight. This process times the bonded ferule OEM rubber bushes to the new ride height.

Timing the bushings balances the car. The rotational resistance in the bushes is a second set of springs in the car. If they are not timed to the new ride height they are creating uneven loads as the car moves over a bump. The suspension will function correctly with the bushes timed and will also last longer. Only a professional that understands suspension will take this extra step or a dedicated DIY like Chris.

Wow. I'd NEVER find a shop here that would do it. So I'll do it myself after I fix the control arm.

My steering wheel is actually a taaad of center and it drives me nuts.

Originally Posted by GTAHVIT

PICS!!!!

Damn. THAT's what I'm tommout....

Originally Posted by 600hp-lpe

It's not something they would "normally" do at a dealership as part of an alignment. Unless you know the guy that is doing the work, I would be doing it myself so it gets done.

Originally Posted by GTAHVIT

OK cool I'll do this tonight.

So basically any where there is rotation or pivot, loosen those bolts drive for a bit then jack back up and retighten?

I'm curious too. While still under weight, or suspension hung.

[PQ]

Originally Posted by MisterCamaro69

The car looks GOOD!
After you bounce or drive it, you want to tighten all the nuts/bolts without upsetting their new position. You don't want to jack it up. It would be best to do it at the alignment shop, or someplace with a pit.

Damn. I"d actually have to coordinate it with a shop here. That sucks.......

But, Chris, how far is Sears? Maybe ease it to them like that?

[Redemption]

Need to re-tighten when there is a load on the wheels. No jacks!

Jason

[600hp-lpe]

you want the car to be "at rest" with the weight on the suspension.
Goal is to get everything to settle into it's new home while in it's static location.

If you jack it up and tighten stuff, it's not in the right position.

Best place to do it is on an alignment machine, prior to the alignment. Some of the same bolts need to be loosened up to do the alignment anyways.

[PQ]

Originally Posted by 600hp-lpe

you want the car to be "at rest" with the weight on the suspension.
Goal is to get everything to settle into it's new home while in it's static location.

If you jack it up and tighten stuff, it's not in the right position.

Best place to do it is on an alignment machine, prior to the alignment. Some of the same bolts need to be loosened up to do the alignment.

I can say for certain, here in Mobile anyway, it would not be easy to get the shops to do it. I hate this place.

Chris may have more luck on his end. Sounded like Sears was willing to work with him.

[JusticePete]

It is a shame that most shops do not do this. No one is asking to have it done for free. In a business shop it is really easy. Put it on a lift. Loosen the bolts. Drive around the shop lot and on to the alignment rack. Tighten the bolts and proceed with the alignment. It can't take an hour.

At home you can do it with boards. It is a little bit trickier to get to the bolts, but it is doable and it works.

(2) 2x12x48
(2) 2x12x36
(4) 2x12x12

You will be able to drive up in steps and the wheels will be evenly loaded. In the shop and at home we have these boards cover in truck bedliner. You can keep them clean and they don't slip. You can use 8 or 10" boards to cut costs, but you get the idea.

Timing the bushes is the difference between doing a half axxed job and doing it right.

[JusticePete]

Hey PQ

[thespymaster]

Looks really good Chris..............

[GTAHVIT]

Originally Posted by 600hp-lpe

you want the car to be "at rest" with the weight on the suspension.
Goal is to get everything to settle into it's new home while in it's static location.

If you jack it up and tighten stuff, it's not in the right position.

Best place to do it is on an alignment machine, prior to the alignment. Some of the same bolts need to be loosened up to do the alignment anyways.

COOL!

OH and thanks very much for giving me a call about preloading the rear springs.



ah hem... Pete was ignoring my calls at that very critical time...

[Jay_LHD3]

Originally Posted by PQ

I can say for certain, here in Mobile anyway, it would not be easy to get the shops to do it. I hate this place.

Chris may have more luck on his end. Sounded like Sears was willing to work with him.

My alignment shop did not know what I was talking about. I gave them Pete's instructions and after they read it they agreed it made sense.

You can tell the difference afterwards, it removes that "spring board" feel!!

[Darth_Emma]

Chris:
Your car looks great dropped. I love that stance.

[GTAHVIT]

Originally Posted by thespymaster

Looks really good Chris..............

Originally Posted by Darth_Emma

Chris:
Your car looks great dropped. I love that stance.

Thanks Very much... I'm super happy with it.

[JoeP@TeamBeckyD]

Chris, looks great I'm sure
you'll love the ride and handling as
well. Sorry you aren't closer, my
guys are good at these installs and
love it. Good job

[mlee]

Car looks GREAT... but I thought you were going to lower it...