12-10-2019, 03:53 PM | #1 |
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Drives: cheby Camaro Join Date: Aug 2019
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14 RS Mylink radio cuts in and out SOLVED & UPDATED
I was at a stop with the radio off and noticed the blinker wasn't making its usual ticking sound, What I did hear was static noise coming out the speakers. I turned the radio on, everything came up on the screen but no sound. Then sound comes on for a few seconds then shuts off. Back and forth, seems like a bad connection someplace. Its has the Mylink radio with boston acoustic. Any help was be appreciated.
Last edited by CamaroBarb; 01-15-2020 at 03:49 PM. |
12-11-2019, 01:46 PM | #2 |
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Drives: cheby Camaro Join Date: Aug 2019
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The source of the problem was at the BA amplifier drivers side rear of car. What I found was the BODY VENT is mounted right in front of the amp. While driving in the rain yesterday going through a turn I hit a puddle. Centrifugal forces while in the turn had the vent open and the water in the puddle splashed in on the amplifier electrical connections. That water flooded the X3 connector, the minerals in the road water caused cross talk across the plug. I dried everything good and made a cover for the vent so it can't happen again.
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12-11-2019, 03:28 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS LS3 Whipple Join Date: May 2019
Location: Connecticut
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Nice find. Interesting.
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01-15-2020, 04:05 PM | #4 |
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Drives: cheby Camaro Join Date: Aug 2019
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UPDATE: Now a month later the radio turns on but no sound out of the speakers. I started looking back at the BA amp for more water on the connectors, nothing dry. So I disconnect the amp and pulled it out of the car for inspection. What I found was a small amount of water deep inside the amp that never got dried out when I dried the connections a month ago. A small amount water settled at the very bottom of the amp on one of the amps IC. It slowly started to corrode the IC conductors and shorted them out. I cleaned the conductors with alcohol and sealed them with clear nail polish. Although badly corroded the amp works again and I have sound. So if you have water on the connectors from water splashing in at the body vent you need to take the amp apart too and dry that lower IC chip. If you look close where the conductors exit the IC there is corrosion across the conductors.
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01-15-2020, 06:05 PM | #5 | |
Drives: 2014 Ashen Gray Convertible Join Date: Apr 2017
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Quote:
Just jumped over to eBay and was amazed at how little the amplifiers go for, under $40.00 with free shipping! Larry
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Last edited by Deputy347k9; 01-15-2020 at 06:09 PM. Reason: Further information |
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01-15-2020, 08:28 PM | #6 |
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Drives: cheby Camaro Join Date: Aug 2019
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I'm sorry I didn't pull the amp apart the 1st time. I didn't notice the lower IC wasn't protected. The entire board looked dip sealed EXCEPT if you look closely where the IC's and connector's are mounted they are not. Odd but true, makes little sense to me. Ya never know how long it will last like this. At least its cheap if you buy used. I could replace the IC but till you find the right IC and install it not worth it. The entire thing is just waiting for water to get on it from the body vent. I used universal fixer (duct tape) to fashion a deflector to keep any water that tries to enter the vent gets deflected down away from the amp. If the amp stays working till spring I'll pull it back out and spray sealer around the IC's and connectors. Should also have a drain hole in the lower amp housing so any water that enters the housing can drain back out. As it is now any water getting in lays right at the lower IC conductors.
Another problem I see is if your car is not garaged and the temp goes down below dew point at night then air temp rises during the day the aluminum case will sweat. The condensation will collect at the lower IC and rot the conductors away. I did call my local dealer about this and they never heard of these problems BUT they admitted they replace alot of these amps. LOL Last edited by CamaroBarb; 01-15-2020 at 08:54 PM. |
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