[solarstingray]

just a quick question

is the warped rotors covered under warranty its only a few months old with 6k on it.

its a 2017 Camaro ss 2 ss a8

I am probably guessing not considering its wear and tear.

the one this I missed with my Volvo r design polestar is that they covered everything, rotors, oil changes, wiper blades everything was covered for 4 years.


thanks fellas

[Blakout]

I've got a similar issue. Rotors don't actually "warp", it's technically an uneven distribution of brake-pad wear onto the rotor that gives it an uneven surface. This is called having "hot spots" on your rotors, and you get them from braking hard then coming to a complete stop and holding the brakes onto one part of the rotor for some time.

Somehow I ended up with this on my '16 2SS A8. Took it to the dealer yesterday and they tried to sell me on a $900 brake job, even though warranty is still on the car in addition to an aftermarket warranty I have on the car since I purchased pre-owned.

A question for the forum: Should I just go to a brake specialist (Vista Brake is near me) and have them done, maybe even buy my own replacement rotors/pads and have them install? Then I'll make sure to do a proper bedding procedure. Thoughts?

(Sorry if I hijacked your thread but I think we have the same issue :P)

[solarstingray]

no worries,

lets see what every one says,

Originally Posted by Blakout

I've got a similar issue. Rotors don't actually "warp", it's technically an uneven distribution of brake-pad wear onto the rotor that gives it an uneven surface. This is called having "hot spots" on your rotors, and you get them from braking hard then coming to a complete stop and holding the brakes onto one part of the rotor for some time.

Somehow I ended up with this on my '16 2SS A8. Took it to the dealer yesterday and they tried to sell me on a $500 brake job, even though warranty is still on the car in addition to an aftermarket warranty I have on the car since I purchased pre-owned.

A question for the forum: Should I just go to a brake specialist (Vista Brake is near me) and have them done, maybe even buy my own replacement rotors/pads and have them install? Then I'll make sure to do a proper bedding procedure. Thoughts?

(Sorry if I hijacked your thread but I think we have the same issue :P)

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Originally Posted by Blakout

I've got a similar issue. Rotors don't actually "warp", it's technically an uneven distribution of brake-pad wear onto the rotor that gives it an uneven surface. This is called having "hot spots" on your rotors, and you get them from braking hard then coming to a complete stop and holding the brakes onto one part of the rotor for some time.

Somehow I ended up with this on my '16 2SS A8. Took it to the dealer yesterday and they tried to sell me on a $900 brake job, even though warranty is still on the car in addition to an aftermarket warranty I have on the car since I purchased pre-owned.

A question for the forum: Should I just go to a brake specialist (Vista Brake is near me) and have them done, maybe even buy my own replacement rotors/pads and have them install? Then I'll make sure to do a proper bedding procedure. Thoughts?

(Sorry if I hijacked your thread but I think we have the same issue :P)

<in bold



Some have taken em to dealers and some have gotten them replaced. Others havent under wear and tear ruke.

If you plan to race or track the car id advise agaist turning rotors. Theyre heatsinks for the pads... making a heatsink thinner means its gonna reduce the amount of mass making the rotor thinner and thus will be easier to deposit pad material back on the rotor even easier.

Changine pads and rotors is maybe a half hour job. If you are really slow at it. Id do it myself and make sure it's done right.

Sometimes if the pad material isnt too badly deposited, you can do a couple of high speed stops and work it off depending on what pads youre running. Sort of a rebedding and seasoning of the pads and rotors.

If you just drive normal, which prob isnt the case if your melting pads on the rotors, then maybe one cutting of the rotor would be ok on a street driven car.

Id also look into pads that will support what you do with the car.

[TJay74]

GM will cover a rotor resurface for the first 12 months if the vehicle has less than 7500 miles on it.

[gotroost]

Have tried bedding/burnishing them? I had pad transfer after my first track session with everything stock (1st time novice). Bedding/burnishing them clean them right up after I changed to better pads. This was was on my former 2010 2SS.

[Blakout]

Originally Posted by PolynesianPowerhouse

<in bold



Some have taken em to dealers and some have gotten them replaced. Others havent under wear and tear ruke.

If you plan to race or track the car id advise agaist turning rotors. Theyre heatsinks for the pads... making a heatsink thinner means its gonna reduce the amount of mass making the rotor thinner and thus will be easier to deposit pad material back on the rotor even easier.

Changine pads and rotors is maybe a half hour job. If you are really slow at it. Id do it myself and make sure it's done right.

Sometimes if the pad material isnt too badly deposited, you can do a couple of high speed stops and work it off depending on what pads youre running. Sort of a rebedding and seasoning of the pads and rotors.

If you just drive normal, which prob isnt the case if your melting pads on the rotors, then maybe one cutting of the rotor would be ok on a street driven car.

Id also look into pads that will support what you do with the car.

Bolded text is pretty much the situation, for me, not sure about OP. "Spirited driving" is what I like to call it. I haven't tried the re-bedding suggestion, could surely try it before resorting to replacing everything. The pads on mine were replaced by the dealer I bought it from before I purchased the car. I no longer remember if the issue existed during the test drive or if it started after I took the car home.

I'd love to do the rotors/pads myself, maybe learn something along the way and get to know this beast of a car a little, but I just don't have the tools required for such a job. I'd have no way of knowing if I properly torqued the wheel nuts back down afterward or if I installed the pads properly. Pretty much a complete novice to car work here.

[Tenfive]

I wonder if there is a drilled and/or slotted rotor option for the front rotors . Mine had some severe usage during camarofest autocross & running deals gap & some spirited driving.

I am having the same issue with mine and I installed brand new pads