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Old 11-06-2018, 08:48 AM   #15
Juiced1
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We've seen some 6l80s take some abuse but they will eventually let go in that power range. A good tune goes a long way. Our shop car is still running strong with a 6l80 and 600rwhp with a tune. Eventually it will be getting a Strange S60 rear end and a trans rebuild but until then we'll keep pushing it. We just like to make sure we have a tow vehicle if we push it hard at the track.
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Old 11-06-2018, 10:02 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by acammer View Post
^^^ THIS. Honestly, the best thing I ever did was solid subframe bushings - it transformers the car. I believe the subframe bushings are the biggest contributors to the wheelhop - there is just so much spring and play there.
That's my plan this winter now that I am over the 500 mark! Want to do subframe bushings and trailing/toe rods. The wheelhop I have now is insane and I don't want to destroy the 3.91's I just put in. Wondered about getting an LPW diff cover at some point as well.
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Old 11-06-2018, 12:21 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by go_go_gadget88 View Post
That's my plan this winter now that I am over the 500 mark! Want to do subframe bushings and trailing/toe rods. The wheelhop I have now is insane and I don't want to destroy the 3.91's I just put in. Wondered about getting an LPW diff cover at some point as well.
The LPW cover is a pretty nice piece - with the soft aluminum housing it makes sense to add some strength on the open end. The load bolts of the main caps also address a key weakness in the 8.6" IRS diff. For the cost of a set of billet ring gear caps from JRE you can just about buy the LPW cover, and add support to the stock caps and the housing. And - no machining!

Don't forget some good poly bushings in the diff. I have BMR "race" bushings (I think that a 96 durometer hardness) in mine. I ran the diff bushings prior to the sub-frame bushings, and felt a small but noticeable different. The solid subframe bushings were night and day - I could notice them from the first release of the clutch. Other than the sub-frame and diff bushings I have all stock suspension and zero wheelhop. Doesn't even hint at it.
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Old 11-06-2018, 04:23 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by sixty9fordkiller View Post
address the wheelhop!

i blew the spider gears at 42k miles in 2012 and got it fixed under warranty. August 2009 production date. Manual trans car. At the time, car had LT's, CAI, tune, full 3" catless exhaust and made 428RWHP. I am certain that excessive wheelhop is what did this rear in.

Last July i upgraded to 1LE Axles and BMR trailing arms, outer t/a bushing, and toe rods. This january i got hold of a 15k mile Z28 diff and its in the car now.

Havent launched is yet since in waiting till i do the solid rear cradle bushings and rear upper c/a bushings to complete the package to eliminate wheelhop.
Did somebody say solid subframe bushings?

Heres the DIY, give it a look, hope it helps

www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=540578
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Old 11-06-2018, 04:45 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris49066SS View Post
Did somebody say solid subframe bushings?

Heres the DIY, give it a look, hope it helps

www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=540578
Excellent. Saw your writeup a few days ago. Good stuff
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Old 11-09-2018, 07:39 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixty9fordkiller View Post
address the wheelhop!
^^^ THIS. Honestly, the best thing I ever did was solid subframe bushings - it transformers the car. I believe the subframe bushings are the biggest contributors to the wheelhop - there is just so much spring and play there.
Yes or at the very minimum the Rear Trailing Arms and Links which will help. Have seen bent Stock Arms on Stock/near Stock Cars from Wheel Hop.
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Old 11-10-2018, 02:06 PM   #21
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The stock rear axles are supposed to be able to hold up to 600hp. I recently broke one at the dragstrip and my car makes around 500. Replaced with DSS 1000 hp shafts. No issues at all. These cost me a little over 1K. Expensive but had to be done.

The spider gears in the stock 8.6 differential in the L99 are not made for hard launching. I replaced the stock internals with an Eaton Tru-Trac after my car began to cut 1.5X 60' times. It does 1.48 now with no issues. The best thing about the Tru-Trac is it has no clutch packs to wear out like the standard diff's have. Costs around $600. Good up to 1000 hp.

I only had wheel hop on one occasion after putting the CD 3200 stall in, swapped the toe links and trailing arms out. No issues afterwards. I got a steal on them for $210 new.

Since you now have a stalled converter, you absolutely need a tranny cooler. Your transmission will build heat much quicker now. You want to keep it under 185*. Lots of options here. Cooler is always better for your tranny's life.
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