JBA SHORTIES PROBLEM. - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

ThatGuy25 · 08-03-2012, 07:13 PM

So i just installed the titanium ceramic and the removal of the stock headers went smoothly, we then put the jba on and placed some rtv around the gasket but not a whole lot. We tigheten everything up, placed it nicely and turned it one...sounds like its farting. I don't know if its a leak or not but i DONT have an CEL on...so im like wtf? here is a vid, hope it helps.

Jayrcr3 · 08-03-2012, 07:16 PM

Rtv does not go around header gaskets. :o

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ThatGuy25 · 08-03-2012, 07:19 PM

I put it on the inside wall of the header, so like, exhaust hole - Gasket - RTV- headers. in that order..

Jayrcr3 · 08-03-2012, 08:49 PM

You shouldn't have put RTV anywhere near the headers. The gaskets will seal without any extra additives. RTV cannot take the heat from the exhaust.

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Ventmaster · 08-03-2012, 09:22 PM

RTV isn't going to hurt anything on top of your gaskets and as I recall, JBA calls for some in their instructions (although they may be saying to put it between the gasket and engine- they're not very clear).

99% of JBA shortie leaks are at the V-clamp, if the car's still up on jack-stands, give a listen there- I can't tell from the vid.

Keep in mind all header bolts should be re-torqued after a couple of drive cycles (sorry, but it's true).

Where ever the leak is, its not very large. Just track it down in a systematic method. If there's no CEL, you're not gonna hurt anything operating the car until you figure it out.

ThatGuy25 · 08-03-2012, 09:25 PM

Yeah, it seems to coming from the passenger side, but i assume that if there is a leak the CEL would come on. Is the V clamp the clam that hold the cats and header together is that the one ur talking about?

Ventmaster · 08-03-2012, 10:10 PM

Yep, that's it. Unless it's perfectly aligned, you're gonna leak.

Chances are the CEL will come eventually. If that's the problem, start by loosening the nuts on the big OEM clamp, then loosen the "clam". Try to better align the cat midpipe with the header for a flush fit and retighten.

Don't overtighten the clam or it will distort and do a worse job of sealing.

If the leaks persists, get some Acousti/seal Ehaust sealing Compound part #35959 at your autoparts store (tell'em to order you some if they don't have it).

This stuff's like RTV, smear it around the inter-face between the header and mid-pipe. Let it cure and then be prepared for it to stink for about a week when you drive- but 9 out of 10 times, it'll fix the leak.

If the farts are at the header-engine contact, just keep following the directions: tighten from the inside bolts, working out- and don't overtighten the few "cherry" bolts that are actually easy to reach. Eventually you wil cure the leak.

ThatGuy25 · 08-04-2012, 02:26 AM

Thanks, I'll try this sunday and see what happens.

ThatGuy25 · 08-08-2012, 03:30 PM

So re did the driver side gasket, and then the cat was leaking so i put mega sealant in and aorund it. the driver side is fine...but i hear a leak from the passanger cat now...fml.

Ventmaster · 08-08-2012, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ThatGuy25

So re did the driver side gasket, and then the cat was leaking so i put mega sealant in and aorund it. the driver side is fine...but i hear a leak from the passanger cat now...fml.

Welcome to wonderful world of modifying!

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You've just about got it now- and then comes the satisfaction of a challenge met and overcome.

Next week you'll be looking for the next mod!

08-03-2012, 07:16 PM	#2
Jayrcr3 Drives: 2011 IOM 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Chatham, Illinois Posts: 756	Rtv does not go around header gaskets. :o Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2 __________________ American Racing 1 7/8" Headers and Hi-Flow Cats, CAI cold air intake, Flowmaster AT exhaust, Vengeance Racing Stage 2 cam, VMax ported throttle body, TEA valve springs and titanium retainers, Trick Flow hardened pushrods, 180* T-stat, Comp Trunion kit, ZL1 Fuel Pump, ADM Fuel Pump Control Module, 20% window tint, Whipple Supercharger. Tuned by Mike Norris Motorsports. 656rwhp/584rwtq @10 PSI.

08-03-2012, 08:49 PM	#4
Jayrcr3 Drives: 2011 IOM 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Chatham, Illinois Posts: 756	You shouldn't have put RTV anywhere near the headers. The gaskets will seal without any extra additives. RTV cannot take the heat from the exhaust. Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2 __________________ American Racing 1 7/8" Headers and Hi-Flow Cats, CAI cold air intake, Flowmaster AT exhaust, Vengeance Racing Stage 2 cam, VMax ported throttle body, TEA valve springs and titanium retainers, Trick Flow hardened pushrods, 180* T-stat, Comp Trunion kit, ZL1 Fuel Pump, ADM Fuel Pump Control Module, 20% window tint, Whipple Supercharger. Tuned by Mike Norris Motorsports. 656rwhp/584rwtq @10 PSI.

08-03-2012, 07:19 PM	#3
ThatGuy25 Drives: 2011 V6 Camaro Ls Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Miami Posts: 60	I put it on the inside wall of the header, so like, exhaust hole - Gasket - RTV- headers. in that order..

08-03-2012, 09:22 PM	#5
Ventmaster Drives: 2017 1SS 6spd Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Utah Posts: 2,883	RTV isn't going to hurt anything on top of your gaskets and as I recall, JBA calls for some in their instructions (although they may be saying to put it between the gasket and engine- they're not very clear). 99% of JBA shortie leaks are at the V-clamp, if the car's still up on jack-stands, give a listen there- I can't tell from the vid. Keep in mind all header bolts should be re-torqued after a couple of drive cycles (sorry, but it's true). Where ever the leak is, its not very large. Just track it down in a systematic method. If there's no CEL, you're not gonna hurt anything operating the car until you figure it out.

08-03-2012, 09:25 PM	#6
ThatGuy25 Drives: 2011 V6 Camaro Ls Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Miami Posts: 60	Yeah, it seems to coming from the passenger side, but i assume that if there is a leak the CEL would come on. Is the V clamp the clam that hold the cats and header together is that the one ur talking about?

08-03-2012, 10:10 PM	#7
Ventmaster Drives: 2017 1SS 6spd Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Utah Posts: 2,883	Yep, that's it. Unless it's perfectly aligned, you're gonna leak. Chances are the CEL will come eventually. If that's the problem, start by loosening the nuts on the big OEM clamp, then loosen the "clam". Try to better align the cat midpipe with the header for a flush fit and retighten. Don't overtighten the clam or it will distort and do a worse job of sealing. If the leaks persists, get some Acousti/seal Ehaust sealing Compound part #35959 at your autoparts store (tell'em to order you some if they don't have it). This stuff's like RTV, smear it around the inter-face between the header and mid-pipe. Let it cure and then be prepared for it to stink for about a week when you drive- but 9 out of 10 times, it'll fix the leak. If the farts are at the header-engine contact, just keep following the directions: tighten from the inside bolts, working out- and don't overtighten the few "cherry" bolts that are actually easy to reach. Eventually you wil cure the leak.

08-04-2012, 02:26 AM	#8
ThatGuy25 Drives: 2011 V6 Camaro Ls Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Miami Posts: 60	Thanks, I'll try this sunday and see what happens.

08-08-2012, 03:30 PM	#9
ThatGuy25 Drives: 2011 V6 Camaro Ls Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Miami Posts: 60	So re did the driver side gasket, and then the cat was leaking so i put mega sealant in and aorund it. the driver side is fine...but i hear a leak from the passanger cat now...fml.