1LE upgrade sway setup?

[Burt]

Originally Posted by DavidCorsaro

Pete, I'm referring to the most commonly over-looked aspects of the OEM bars is their usage of bound bushings. While GM may be trying to mimic a torsion beam effect with them and introduce some spring rate at the wheel, they aren't optimal in ultimately trying get the most 'bite' for a given rate bar. This becomes crucial in the rear with a Torsen and the decent torque from the LS3.

A 32mm hollow is very similar to a 28mm solid, albeit dependent on wall thickness/arm length/eyelet position. I'd be very surprised if the biggest 'gain' people tend to get from most aftermarket bars is simply from unbound poly bushings.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but for the same diameter bar with the same torque applied, i.e. the same arm length and force applied to it, you'll get a pretty linear rate of torsional deflection per unit length of lateral bar. Therefore, the longer the lateral length of the bar, the greater the deformation, and in this case, body roll. Theoretically, if the stock bushing could provide sufficient force to bind the sway bar entirely, you would effectively shorten the lateral length of the bar to just the space between the bushing and the bar, and decrease the deformation for an equivalent force. I'm then guessing that the force applied to the other arm that's being unloaded on a completely unbound bar is greater than the resistive force on a bound bar, to make your statement correct.

[ST1LE]

Originally Posted by Burt

Have you considered trying to buy two more front OEM wheels, so you could run a square set of 285/35 PSS without having the stretched look, and get a 275/35 to use as the full-size spare? You could sell the rears, or keep them for the track, and run the second pair of fronts on the street.

When I was researching spares, I was told the 20x10 will not fit in the rear due to the offset difference. This was my first thought though, to have a square wheel set up not just a square tire set up.

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by DavidCorsaro

Pete, I'm referring to the most commonly over-looked aspects of the OEM bars is their usage of bound bushings. While GM may be trying to mimic a torsion beam effect with them and introduce some spring rate at the wheel, they aren't optimal in ultimately trying get the most 'bite' for a given rate bar. This becomes crucial in the rear with a Torsen and the decent torque from the LS3.

A 32mm hollow is very similar to a 28mm solid, albeit dependent on wall thickness/arm length/eyelet position. I'd be very surprised if the biggest 'gain' people tend to get from most aftermarket bars is simply from unbound poly bushings.

Looks like the JPSS bars will be 27mm thick wall hollow front adjustable with a 32mm solid rear.

[Bryant209]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

Looks like the JPSS bars will be 27mm thick wall hollow front adjustable with a 32mm solid rear.

Pete can I go with 18x10 wheels all around w/ 285 square stance w/ PSS or would I be sacrificing performance?

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by Bryant209

Pete can I go with 18x10 wheels all around w/ 285 square stance w/ PSS or would I be sacrificing performance?

On your GTO?

[Bryant209]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

On your GTO?

No, the SS I'm about to get in a week and a potential 1LE setup, gotta get rid of the goat soon tho

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by Bryant209

No, the SS I'm about to get in a week and a potential 1LE setup, gotta get rid of the goat soon tho

Sorry to see the Goat go, but I certainly understand. What are your plans for the 1LE wheels?

[Sgtrod]

I think the point of the bound bushings is an interesting observation. My c6 corvette did not have a notch on the sway bar meant to lock in the bushings.

It actually got lubed uo so that it would slide.

Any input on this?

[JusticePete]

The 5th Gen bracket is exceptionally strong from the factory. The flat brackets generally supplied with after market bars are no where near as strong. Some companies offer upgrades to billet style brackets. The same is true of the bushings. Most aftermarket bushings would not pass validation at the OEM level. Over lubricating exacerbates these issues.

We re-use the factory brackets and custom make bushing to fit them. Our bushings should be installed bone dry where they fit into the brackets, but we'll lubed in the hole for the bar. Depending on your climate, extremely hot weather areas will require annually lubrication. Moderate areas you can go years on the intial lube.

[Sgtrod]

The corvette sways have no notches on them to hold the bushing in place. Like they are meant to slide from side to side.

The camaro sways have notches to hold the bushing in place and not slide.


I curious as to why...maybe Im seeing things

[jokrz187]

i'm trying to decipher some of this, please help and sorry for being repetative. i may be able to get stock 1le front/rear sway bars from a member from here. Do i need to change my tire set up to have better performance and or not ruin any tires. i just bought new contenental extreme contact tires. thank you in advance. No, i don't know the exact size of the bars at the time of this post. thank you again.

[olblue75]

Sway bars don't affect tire wear I ran my first 1LE setup with 275 all around. Now they could cause wear by more inspired stability and less body roll therefore letting you push/drive it a little harder.
I'm currently running the front 1LE with the JPSS 35mm bar and it inspires a lot more confidence in the car.