Readiness Codes

[Briguys10SS]

Just replaced the battery in the 2010SS, wondering how many miles to drive it until the codes are set? 30 day vehicle transfer time period is up and my NYS temp. 10 day inspection is up LOL... looking to get it inspected soon though

[CanyonSS]

10 days from my own personal experiences. (10' 2SS) Had a buddy take less time. (12'1LE)


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[Briguys10SS]

Originally Posted by CanyonSS

10 days from my own personal experiences. (10' 2SS) Had a buddy take less time. (12'1LE)


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Happen to know if he driven it and how many miles? I had another similar situation with my previous 05 Monte SS had the battery unhooked was doing stereo and speakers, couple days later went to get it inspected failed of course

[CanyonSS]

I texted him, he said he put down 80 miles / highway.

[hammdo]

Evap takes a while. I had to use my tech2 and even that took 1.5 hours from cold start to shutdown tests:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=627

It takes several cold start cycles at least 8 hours apart for just that test to complete...

-Don

[Jazzzed]

The Evap requires at least 3 minutes of driving 55mph, and you have to also idle on a cold start with the rear defogger and the air conditioner running for at least 3 minutes.

[ZED SLED]

There is a driving procedure to reset the readiness codes. This takes about 20 minutes to do. Evap will take much longer but you only need 3 of 4 codes to pass in order to pass inspection in NY. I went through this with my Avalanche a couple of years ago when I replaced the battery and tried to get it inspected the next day. Not sure what the procedure for the Camaro is, but I found the one for the Avalanche by google.

[Scalded Dog]

As Zed Sled mentioned, you can complete the drive cycle, in order to test/ rest/ clear the codes.

General Motors Driving Cycle A complete driving cycle should perform diagnostics on all systems. A complete driving cycle can be done in under fifteen minutes.
To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:

• Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
  
• Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.
  
• Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
  
• Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
  
• Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
  
• Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
  
• Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
  
• Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

.

For the longer periods of holding a steady speed, I recommend setting the cruise control. Of course, you may find it difficult to find a place where you can hold a steady speed for five, or even three minutes, as around here, it's very difficult to go five minutes on ANY road without finding some jackwad who simply MUST drive at 20 MPH under the speed limit. At the same time, of course, you'll have somebody riding your tail, demanding that you go 20 OVER the limit. Your coast- down--- without touching the brake or clutch down to 20 MPH--- is best down on on upgrade. Do it on the level, or on a downgrade, and it'll take so long to reach 20 MPH that the people behind you will lose their freakin' minds, and pass you on the shoulder, or into oncoming traffic, or whatever. For me, I can only complete the full drive cycle late at night, with less traffic around.

Maybe Peru has better opportunities on the road for completing the drive cycle, but while it is possible here in CA, it CAN be a pain in the butt.

On the other hand, TYPICALLY 200 miles of just "regular" driving will USUALLY clear the codes... but not always. A while back, before I learned of "drive cycles," I had a car that the mechanic kept sending me back out to drive: I drove 600 miles before the damn codes cleared.

[CamaroFred]

The OP is in Peru, NY. IIRC that's upstate NY. Not South America.

Get on the highway for about 30-40 minutes going 60 - 80 MPH and everything will heat up and you will be good to pass.

These cars cry for you to blow some fuel through them.

[Briguys10SS]

Well so far i have been taking it out for some drives and now down to, two not readies EVAP and Catalyst are what's left, i just get weary about the troopers being able to scan my plate number... no inspection ticket is not something what i want to get lol

[mydreamcar]

Originally Posted by Briguys10SS

Well so far i have been taking it out for some drives and now down to, two not readies EVAP and Catalyst are what's left, i just get weary about the troopers being able to scan my plate number... no inspection ticket is not something what i want to get lol

I had this problem when I had my v6 Camaro. Did all the drive cycles numerous times. still could not get the evap code to go ready. I just simply stopped worrying about it, drove the car and checked it 1x every other week, 600 miles later and 6 weeks later , all monitors went ready. Simply put just drive the car, you will end up doing all the procedures via your normal drive cycles instead of trying to force yourself to follow the procedures and it probably not getting it done.

[Briguys10SS]

Originally Posted by mydreamcar

I had this problem when I had my v6 Camaro. Did all the drive cycles numerous times. still could not get the evap code to go ready. I just simply stopped worrying about it, drove the car and checked it 1x every other week, 600 miles later and 6 weeks later , all monitors went ready. Simply put just drive the car, you will end up doing all the procedures via your normal drive cycles instead of trying to force yourself to follow the procedures and it probably not getting it done.

Hopefully it wont need 600 miles lol that would suck. Have been driving it to work lately, and just going for cruises, got almost 80 miles since the battery change. just got back from almost a hours worth of driving, up and down hills, stopping and going trying to get the Cats to get real hot and hopefully the EVAP gets ready as well.

[CamaroFred]

As I posted above, get on the highway and go 60-70 for ~40 minutes.
Worked for me. None of my driving around town did.

[hammdo]

Originally Posted by Briguys10SS

Just replaced the battery in the 2010SS, wondering how many miles to drive it until the codes are set? 30 day vehicle transfer time period is up and my NYS temp. 10 day inspection is up LOL... looking to get it inspected soon though

EVAP takes the longest.

More than 2 weeks as you have to do a combo of city and highway driving.

This is what I had to do to get it ready. Dealer can do this, but I had a tech2:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=627

Here is the drive cycle from the manual:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=616

-Don