04-28-2014, 08:23 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2013 LFX V6 2LS Auto Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 45
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What should I do while the rear cradle is out of the car?
I have a '13 V6 A6 2LS & I'm swapping in a complete rear end from a low mileage '13 1LE. What if anything should I do while I've got the cradle out? (Don't worry I'm doing the front as well for a full FE2~FE6 upgrade) It's a 2nd car not a DD so I don't mind a stiff suspension but I don't want the ride too harsh so no solid bushings. I'm doing this upgrade to correct the body roll I experienced at the track(see pic below from Laguna Seca) and improve my AutoX performance.
I've already done the Brembo upgrade and they seem more than adequate. |
04-29-2014, 07:45 AM | #2 |
The 1le will already have the 3.91's but the rest is advisable.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...e+rear+bushing |
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04-29-2014, 09:41 AM | #3 |
Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seffner, FL
Posts: 6,226
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For the best autocross performance, you might consider swapping the Cradle Bushings to our Pro-Version Polyurethane Bushings (BK024). Also, while the cradle is out, it's a real good idea to replace the rear upper control arm bushings, I would recommend the BK039 Delrin version. The rest can be later after the cradle is installed. And if you're looking to get rid of body roll, our BMR sway bars will outperform the 1LE bars in every aspect!!!
BTW, what car is that parked behind your new cradle? Looks pretty cool!!! |
04-29-2014, 09:48 AM | #4 |
Drives: 2013 LFX V6 2LS Auto Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 45
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Thanks for the link to your awesome write up JEREMYWES! I'll do some research on the bushings, seems like there are a few brands out there.
BMR I'll be in touch once I do my research and get some more opinions from the forums. The car in the background is my 1972 Volvo 1800e that's undergoing a restomod(actually it's accumulating dust while I play with my new Camaro) |
04-29-2014, 05:17 PM | #5 |
Drives: Chevys at the limit Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 9,621
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Keith @ BMR gave great advise; the subframe/cradle bushings and upper CAB's are all that really need to be addressed while the cradle is down. I'd also suggest installing the toe link bolts in the reverse direction to prevent having to lower the cradle again to replace them. (they hit the fuel tank when removing them)
Feel free to call, PM or email me anytime with questions. Best regards, Tyler 888-308-6007 |
04-30-2014, 09:56 AM | #6 |
Drives: 2013 LFX V6 2LS Auto Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 45
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I'm a bit confused on these subframe mounts, I have this bushing insert kit that I got from another member here(thanks HYPURONE) but they don't seem to fit for my '13 1LE rear end. Chevy seems to have gone to more solid mounts. Is there even an upgrade for these? The big upper ones seem to have little to no flex when I pry on them, but the lowers do seem to move around a little.
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04-30-2014, 10:01 AM | #7 |
Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seffner, FL
Posts: 6,226
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Yep, those are the wrong inserts for your car. As you figured out, Chevy did upgrade to a little bit better bushing....I believe it was during the changover to the FE4 Suspension. You need the BK040 inserts (as pictured below), and you currently have the BK016 inserts.
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04-30-2014, 10:04 AM | #8 |
Drives: 2013 LFX V6 2LS Auto Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 45
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Got it, I guess I'll have to sell the ones I got and get those. Do those go over the lower metal hats or do they replace it? It seems like the underside metal part doesn't want to come off.
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04-30-2014, 10:30 AM | #9 |
Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seffner, FL
Posts: 6,226
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No, they go under the "lower hat" (lower bushing retainer plate). You've gotta take them off. I used a chisel and hammer to "wedge" them apart from the bushing. You also will have to lower the subframe/cradle enough to put the upper inserts on top of the bushings (in between the bushing and the frame).
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04-30-2014, 11:45 AM | #10 | |
Drives: Chevys at the limit Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 9,621
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Quote:
If cost is a concern, check out the Prothane replacement bushings Part # 7-142. They are a full bushing at about the same cost as inserts. Best regards, Tyler 888-308-6007 Last edited by JDP Sales; 04-30-2014 at 01:10 PM. |
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04-30-2014, 12:33 PM | #11 |
Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seffner, FL
Posts: 6,226
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Tyler is absolutely correct, the full bushing replacements work a LOT better than the inserts. They're a lot more work to install, but because of the difference in performance, they're worth it in my opinion. If you're looking to stick with BMR, we do have the BK024 Pro-Version Full Bushing Replacement in-stock.
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04-30-2014, 03:45 PM | #12 |
Drives: Black 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: May 2011
Location: S. Texas
Posts: 1,817
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Go for full replacement. Although I'm sporting a different brand, we have the inserts in my wife's car and the bushing replacement in mine. You can tell a difference. We'll be upgrading to replacements in hers eventually. I wanted full race car and hers was more of a DD at the time.
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04-30-2014, 11:49 PM | #13 |
Account Suspended
Drives: 2013 Camaro 2SS RS 1LE IMO Turbo Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Oxnard. CA
Posts: 1,747
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What's the easiest way to drop the rear craddle?
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