V6-to-V8 Differential Swap

[OOLIE]

Thanks for update. I can subtract 600 for tune, but the fact you paid zero labor is the real bonus. I will have to keep this in mind down the road.

[Ir0nM4n]

Originally Posted by Amenti

So, I've been out driving in city traffic for a while today. I was able to give it a few good launches, and it feels very peppy. The butt dyno tells me there's a slight increase in realized torque with that new differential. The launches are also very smooth. My exhaust rattle went away after repositioning the clamp I had too close to the subframe.

On a side note, I used to have a strange crunching sound shifting from first to second. I believe there's a TSB regarding the problem that states there's a washer missing from the axleshaft near the wheel bearing hub. The SS axles I used had those washers; so, that annoying little crunch is gone now!

@Spicoli: In order to do the swap, you need the differential, some SS axles, new wheel bearing hubs to fit the beefier axles, and possibly an SS driveshaft. The only difference between the SS driveshaft and the V6 driveshaft appears to be the coupler bolt pattern; so, in theory, if you had a V8 coupler to put on your V6 driveshaft, you'd be alright. Definitely check on that, though.

@Ventmaster: The Nurburgring wheels were a great investment. It made the car feel lighter on its feet due to the 7+ lbs. reduction per wheel. Also, going to a 1-inch wider front wheel made the car feel a little less squirrely on uneven pavement. Your results may vary!

@OOLIE: Let's see...I got a deal on a brand new 3.45 SS rear diff on Ebay for 600+95 shipping, new wheel bearing hubs are 140+ each, got a new driveshaft on Ebay for 290 and free shipping, i got the axles slightly used from a C5 member for 150 for the set (I think). Plus, I paid 600 for my Trifecta tune (13hp at WOT is nice) for the corrected speedo. Self-installed; so, a total of: $2020.00.

It seems a little steep; but, I'd say it's worth it to get your LSD, some beefier drivetrain components and access to all of the SS aftermarket gears.

Will you be going to 3.73 gears? As that is what I am planning on doing in the near future.

[Amenti]

Personally, I don't see myself getting 3.73's anytime soon. I'll probably get a torque converter first.

[gahammerle]

Originally Posted by Amenti

On a side note, I used to have a strange crunching sound shifting from first to second. I believe there's a TSB regarding the problem that states there's a washer missing from the axleshaft near the wheel bearing hub. The SS axles I used had those washers; so, that annoying little crunch is gone now!

Do you happen to have a pic of those washers? Mine started making an occasional noise and from what I've read, it most likely is the missing washer problem. I'd like to take a look to confirm that mine doesn't have those before taking it in.

[Amenti]

Sorry, gahmmerle, I wasn't taking any pictures while I was working on the car. I'm just not the build journal type, I suppose!

The washers are larger, since they fit around the base of the axle-shaft, and they're very thin with three small, square portrusions (prongs) equidistantly spaced along the interior diameter of the washer that fit the diameter of the axle-shaft base.

So, basically, if you remove your wheel bearing hubs and take a look at the base of the axle shaft, there should be a large, thin washer there. If it's not, you probably need one. I found a parts website that shows a breakdown of the differential assembly and that washer is shown. Just do a search for "2010 Camaro axle shaft washer" on Google.

[gahammerle]

Is it part #4 in this illustration?

http://parts.nalleygmc.com/images/pa...111E05-002.JPG

[Amenti]

Yes, it's part #4 in that illustration. It goes all the way down to the base of the axle shaft. In the diagram, it sits on the flat, white ring at the base of the splined section of the shaft that holds the wheel bearing hub.

EDIT (correction): There is also a retainer ring that sits inside a groove on the axle-shaft and flush with the outer diameter which is separate from that washer and on the differential-side of the axle. You can make out the groove in the illustration on the left side of the axle in the diagram.

Oddly enough, I noticed that the retaining ring was pinkish in color on my V6 axles and teal in color on the V8 axles. I have no idea if that actually means anything.

[SC2150]

Nice work and good info!

We do have a complete swap to go in for $2000 complete (includes labor) if anyone local wants this.

[Spicoli]

Originally Posted by Amenti

Oddly enough, I noticed that the retaining ring was pinkish in color on my V6 axles and teal in color on the V8 axles. I have no idea if that actually means anything.

Thanks again for the info. Your detailed descriptions are excellent.

As for the different colored retaining rings, they may be different color for nothing more than error proofing at the factory. "Bob, put the teal ring on the V8's and the pink ring on the V6's" Might be different thicknesses or internal diameter that isn't easily picked up by an assembly line worker (or anyone without the proper tools for that matter).

[Amenti]

Originally Posted by Spicoli

Thanks again for the info. Your detailed descriptions are excellent.

That comes from having to scour the internet for diagrams and torque specs every time I got stuck!

There are a few posts here that have to do with the torque specs for various arms of the IRS. I should probably mention that we ended up disconnecting everything except for the lower control arm from one side of the vehicle in order to swivel the wheel bearing assembly far enough out of the way to remove one of the axles.

Once the first axle was removed, everything else came out pretty easily. We removed the differential and the driver's side axle as one piece. Putting them back in as one piece was a bit of a chore, since that required me to basically manhandle a 100+ lbs. chunk of aluminum while my friend maneuvered the driver's side axle back into the driver's side hub assembly.

We totally overthought the driveshaft for a while, then felt like idiots when we were told (by DAL123 and SC2150, thanks much) that the driveshaft can be separated with your bare hands simply by pulling back the rubber boot on the differential side of the driveshaft near the safety loop.

Honestly, if we knew what we were doing, this could have been a day-and-a-half job.

[Pt_killa]

Originally Posted by SC2150

Nice work and good info!

We do have a complete swap to go in for $2000 complete (includes labor) if anyone local wants this.

I wish!!!!!

[gotexas25]

Originally Posted by SC2150

Nice work and good info!

We do have a complete swap to go in for $2000 complete (includes labor) if anyone local wants this.

Too bad I'm not local, 1000 miles each way is just a bit too much for me. I'm very interested in this mod, but have no idea how much labor would be involved. Can anyone provide a rough estimate of time, from a shop that knows what theyre doing? I learned to research beforehand after a reputable shop in Houston quoted me $1400 to install a rather basic nitrous system..! (they didn't receive my business)

[simt3k]

Originally Posted by Pt_killa

I wish!!!!!

That's such a deal! Man everyday reading through this forum site I wish I was more American. The mechanics up here charge an arm and leg for everything...

I was looking into doing this, but it seems it would be cheaper just to trade up to an SS.

[simt3k]

Anyone have a complete parts list and DIY guide? I have a buddy who is a heavy duty mechanic who might help me do this, just hes usually working on semi's. I just need a basic guide.