08-23-2018, 03:56 PM | #1 |
|
Cradle Bushings vs Hotchkis Chassis Brace
Hi,
I have had a set of BMR rear cradle bushings sitting in a box for the past 4 years. I have been reluctant to change out the bushings because I do not want to do the heat method (garage queen and it bothers me), and i dont trust myself cutting out the bushings or trust a shop around here to do it either. I could make a tool or I see ridetech sells a tool. Before buying the tool or making one, i wanted to see what everyones thoughts were on changing out the bushings (yeah i know i already have them) vs the Hotchkis Chassis brace they sell that basically adds a brace that connects the rear cradle to the chassis in another spot. I dont see a lot of people running them on here, but does it correct the issue or should I stop being lazy and just get under the car and get those bushings out and replaced?
__________________
2010 1SS/RS LS3 M6
Edelbrock E-Force Supercharger, 3.00" Pulley, Roto-Fab CAI, Stainless Power LT Headers, LPE Dual Fuel Pump, ID850's, Custom Grind Cam, Katzkin Leather/Suede Interior 630RWHP mustang dyno. |
08-23-2018, 04:11 PM | #2 |
GPI Sales Consultant
|
Replace the bushings. It changes the feeling of the car, and it's much better, especially for a stick car. The heat and press method is no big deal - just did mine. If it makes you feel better just hit them with a little paint after you press them out. I think you've you finally do it you'll be real glad you did - those stock bushings, especially in the 2010-2011s, really suck!
__________________
GPI Max Package 2.0: Brodix BR7 heads/GPI porting, MAX3 cam, ST2116LSR, BSR Max Lift rockers, LS7 LSXR with 103mm TB, Vararam OTR, Mcleod RXT, G-Force/Strange 9" IRS setup with 4.63 gear. 551whp, 11.1@124mph.
Got a question about a GPI product? Feel free to shoot me a message! |
08-23-2018, 05:49 PM | #3 | |
Drives: 2011 SS-RS Join Date: May 2011
Location: FLORIDA
Posts: 11,765
|
Quote:
__________________
TSP STAGE 3 CAM,231/246 @112 LSA 614/641 LIFT, CIRCLE D 5C-4200-4500 CONVERTER,LOD INTAKE.CORSA EXHAUST. DSS 1 PC DS. PEGASUS SOLID CRADLE MOUNTS. 486RWHP/475RWTQ.LOTS MORE.
|
|
08-23-2018, 06:27 PM | #4 |
|
Thanks for the response. I am still not going the heat method. Car has 9800 miles on it, again garage queen. When I do it will probably end up buying that ridetech tool for pulling them out. If anyone has a used one they would like to sell just PM me.
__________________
2010 1SS/RS LS3 M6
Edelbrock E-Force Supercharger, 3.00" Pulley, Roto-Fab CAI, Stainless Power LT Headers, LPE Dual Fuel Pump, ID850's, Custom Grind Cam, Katzkin Leather/Suede Interior 630RWHP mustang dyno. |
08-23-2018, 08:58 PM | #5 |
SoCal Camaro5 Race Team
Drives: 2021 Shadow Grey Camaro 2SS 1LE Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: SO CAL
Posts: 14,321
|
I had bmr bushings done in 2017 along with toe links and trailing arms. They are worth it to get rid of wheel hop. Had incerts before I upped the power. Those were noticeable also, bushings finished it off. No wheel hop, but I have keep revs low on start at autocross as no traction now either..lol
|
08-24-2018, 04:54 AM | #6 |
|
Yes I would replace bushings. I put the same brace on my 2010 L99 and my 2013 LS3. Helped allot over just stock. Then when I bought the COMPLETE 1LE track pack that included bushings that really stiffened things up. I have both on my car and work great for the last 4 years.
|
08-24-2018, 08:45 AM | #7 |
GPI Sales Consultant
|
What is the concern, exactly, with the heat method? Clearly you're not afraid to alter the car, it's got a blower, a cam, etc. You're not heating it to the point where you're melting down the metal, you just need to get it hot enough to release the glues that hold the bushing. If you're worried about the paint, you just hit them with a little paint after you clean them up - they'll be nice and hot and it'll dry instantly.
__________________
GPI Max Package 2.0: Brodix BR7 heads/GPI porting, MAX3 cam, ST2116LSR, BSR Max Lift rockers, LS7 LSXR with 103mm TB, Vararam OTR, Mcleod RXT, G-Force/Strange 9" IRS setup with 4.63 gear. 551whp, 11.1@124mph.
Got a question about a GPI product? Feel free to shoot me a message! |
08-24-2018, 08:55 AM | #8 |
GPI Sales Consultant
|
For what it's worth, I just did mine, and here is the write-up I completed. It's not a how-to by any means, but it covers the basics, and the more on the results of the install.
https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=535425
__________________
GPI Max Package 2.0: Brodix BR7 heads/GPI porting, MAX3 cam, ST2116LSR, BSR Max Lift rockers, LS7 LSXR with 103mm TB, Vararam OTR, Mcleod RXT, G-Force/Strange 9" IRS setup with 4.63 gear. 551whp, 11.1@124mph.
Got a question about a GPI product? Feel free to shoot me a message! |
08-24-2018, 09:14 AM | #9 |
'It's an experiment'
Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 8,700
|
I have both. The Hotchkis also helps protect the fuel system when I road race - which is why I kept it. Cradle bushings are what I would do vs Hotchkis.
-Don
__________________
747 RWHP 794 RWTQ
"Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577 |
08-24-2018, 08:31 PM | #10 | |
|
Quote:
$100 to keep the factory paint still perfect even if it’s on a cradle is worth it to me.
__________________
2010 1SS/RS LS3 M6
Edelbrock E-Force Supercharger, 3.00" Pulley, Roto-Fab CAI, Stainless Power LT Headers, LPE Dual Fuel Pump, ID850's, Custom Grind Cam, Katzkin Leather/Suede Interior 630RWHP mustang dyno. |
|
08-27-2018, 07:56 AM | #11 |
GPI Sales Consultant
|
To each his own - in you're case you're gonna need a tool for removal then.
__________________
GPI Max Package 2.0: Brodix BR7 heads/GPI porting, MAX3 cam, ST2116LSR, BSR Max Lift rockers, LS7 LSXR with 103mm TB, Vararam OTR, Mcleod RXT, G-Force/Strange 9" IRS setup with 4.63 gear. 551whp, 11.1@124mph.
Got a question about a GPI product? Feel free to shoot me a message! |
09-09-2018, 09:55 PM | #12 |
Drives: Rally Yellow Camaro+Avalanche Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 1,110
|
I have both the Hotchkis chassis brace and Pegasus subframe bushings. The Hotchkis was installed first which made the entire chassis feel much more connected. The triangulation of the Hotchkis brace stiffens the entire car. The Pegasus subframe bushings made the rear end more stable, planted and helped the car hook up really well after my cam install. So, I would say that each of these mods worked differently.
__________________
Vengeance Kaotik Cam, C.A.I., ARH LT, Pypes Cat Back, ZL1 Shifter+2012LS3VERT bushing, Quantum Brake Ducts, JDP Tow Hook Scorch Yellow Trim Kit, Shark Fin, AAC DRLs+ABLs+SMDs, ZTA Rear Spoiler, R.Y. 1LE Splitter. Pfadt coilovers, camber plates, trailing arms, Pegasus Solid Subframe. Pedders ZL1 barz, radius arm & steering rack bushings. BMR adjustable toe-rods. Hotchkis Max Chassis Brace. ZL1 GMPP Driveline Upgrade. TurnOne P/S pump. CTS-V 6 pistons.
447 HP @ 6180 RPM / 418 TQ @ 5100 RPM |
09-09-2018, 10:39 PM | #13 | |
Drives: Caprice Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: SE PA
Posts: 194
|
Quote:
You can make a bushing removal tool from stuff you have lying around your garage. Minimal heat will get them out. About 300-350 F is all you have to heat the cradle to. No biggie. It did not phase the paint on my cradle. The paint on the cradle looks like crap anyway. You will never notice. |
|
03-09-2023, 08:10 PM | #14 | |
|
Quote:
Thanks
__________________
|
|
|
|
|
|