[clyde]

Originally Posted by joelster

Turn all of the nannies off. The "track modes" that they develop for these cars are done at a race track. In autocross you'll be turning the wheel sharper, and there will be times when you want the rear to rotate around ie: break loose (slightly) and slide. If you have it in a factory track mode, and you crank the wheel around and try to get the rear to step out, the computer will think that things have gone terribly wrong, and usually pull power in a big way. Maybe others can chime in, but listen to the fastest guys that run a 1LE. They will have good input. On my 5th gen Z, even in the best race mode, it was always cutting power coming out of the sharp corners.

PTM in the 6th gen is reasonably good. OTOH, the sense I get from 1LECRUSH's posts and the original video make me think he'd probably go quicker with all the nannies turned off.

The one thing I'd recommend watching for is eLSD behavior. It's going to be weird. It's not going to be natural. But you're going to have to deal with it. Not sure if it's an issue in autocross when using PTM, but it's a real deal annoyance when the nannies are off.

[Christian1LE]

PTM doesnt work well for hill climbs either, on the track it works well. I tried PTM on race during a hill climb and it was roughly 2 seconds slower than everything off.

[JamesNoBrakes]

Originally Posted by joelster

Turn all of the nannies off. The "track modes" that they develop for these cars are done at a race track. In autocross you'll be turning the wheel sharper, and there will be times when you want the rear to rotate around ie: break loose (slightly) and slide. If you have it in a factory track mode, and you crank the wheel around and try to get the rear to step out, the computer will think that things have gone terribly wrong, and usually pull power in a big way. Maybe others can chime in, but listen to the fastest guys that run a 1LE. They will have good input. On my 5th gen Z, even in the best race mode, it was always cutting power coming out of the sharp corners.

Yep, you don't "think" it's pulling power, but it is, and it adds up to some significant time penalty. It's good to learn how to drive the car with them off and AutoX is quite nearly the perfect setting to do so.

[1LECRUSH]

Oh I definitely can tell it's pulling power on corner exit, it allows a couple of degrees of rotation before it reigns me in. I'll probably try with everything off next time around. I never felt like Track was too rough even for a pretty rough lot.

[DaveC113]

Nice!

On the eDiff, you can get a GMPP autox tune, but it's best done with 200tw tires and a stiffer front bar at the very least and isn't legal for FS. It'll make sure the diff is fully unlocked on turn-in and will very aggressively lock on throttle, a bit too much for an otherwise stock car though.

On classing there's a HUGE gap between FS and CAMC now, .813 to .827, and it takes a lot of cash to make up that gap. When I went CAM it was .819, an ideal alignment and wider wheels is enough to make up that gap, but to be competitive at .827 you need to raw time AS cars like the 981 Cayman GTS and C6 Z06. Not trivial, it takes a lot to get there. I now halfway regret going CAMC.

So I'd stay FS and just get the most camber you can, probably around 2.6 front. If you go 0-toe and a little bit of rear toe-in the wear on the street isn't bad. The wear on AX tires isn't ideal though, this is the biggest issue I have with SCCA street classes and why I went CAM. You can do one roll bar for FS too, I'd suggest a stiffer front bar. I got a Hotchkis used for around $100, not an expensive mod.

Finally, I have some SS 1LE sized wheels in 19s that are FS-legal, Apex SM-10 in anthracite in near perfect condition if you want an autox setup. I'm about to list them for sale. Most would run 285/35/19 RE71RS on all 4. PS4S are really good tires overall, not horrible at anything but definitely not a competitive ax tire. My thoughts are if you're going to take the time to do this you might as well get a setup that maximizes your fun and puts you on a level playing field.

[DaveC113]

Originally Posted by JamesNoBrakes

I start with PTM race, that adds a safety factor when adding power out of a turn, keeps from spinning out. I also do this because on the first run Im a lot more concerned about doing the course right, rather than speed. After this is hold down TC for 5 seconds to disable both TC and SC, I gain 1-2 seconds easy over my best run with PTM race. I do wish I could use sport or even comfort suspension to play with softer suspension, but the non-linear throttle screws too much with power application. Linear is way better. The car is quite good at autoX. I think im going to go down the path of lightweight 19s with RE71s next season. The ps4s dont suck though, mainly because the car is so good.

19s are the only choice for FS but if you're not worried about classing 18x12 square is possible.

[JamesNoBrakes]

Originally Posted by DaveC113

19s are the only choice for FS but if you're not worried about classing 18x12 square is possible.

Yeah, I'll be eaten alive if I go out of class. My pax is decent and staying in class would benefit me a lot more IME.

[joelster]

Originally Posted by DaveC113

Nice!

On the eDiff, you can get a GMPP autox tune, but it's best done with 200tw tires and a stiffer front bar at the very least and isn't legal for FS. It'll make sure the diff is fully unlocked on turn-in and will very aggressively lock on throttle, a bit too much for an otherwise stock car though.

On classing there's a HUGE gap between FS and CAMC now, .813 to .827, and it takes a lot of cash to make up that gap. When I went CAM it was .819, an ideal alignment and wider wheels is enough to make up that gap, but to be competitive at .827 you need to raw time AS cars like the 981 Cayman GTS and C6 Z06. Not trivial, it takes a lot to get there. I now halfway regret going CAMC.

So I'd stay FS and just get the most camber you can, probably around 2.6 front. If you go 0-toe and a little bit of rear toe-in the wear on the street isn't bad. The wear on AX tires isn't ideal though, this is the biggest issue I have with SCCA street classes and why I went CAM. You can do one roll bar for FS too, I'd suggest a stiffer front bar. I got a Hotchkis used for around $100, not an expensive mod.

Finally, I have some SS 1LE sized wheels in 19s that are FS-legal, Apex SM-10 in anthracite in near perfect condition if you want an autox setup. I'm about to list them for sale. Most would run 285/35/19 RE71RS on all 4. PS4S are really good tires overall, not horrible at anything but definitely not a competitive ax tire. My thoughts are if you're going to take the time to do this you might as well get a setup that maximizes your fun and puts you on a level playing field.

CAMC pax sucks now. My car was more competitive last year than it is this year and I have a fairly optimized wing. I tested it at 5 different angles and have it where it's making the most downforce at the speeds I run. It simply isn't going to knock a half second off of my time on a 35 second course like the PAX bump reflects. The wing rules aren't going to do anything to increase car count as well, since a lot of FS guys that dabble into CAMC aren't going to make the jump any more. It's such a backwards step imo.

[Msquared]

Tyler, as a point of reference, when you rode with me on my first run, that was with:

• All nannies off (forgot to point that out before the run).
• 19x10 and 19x11 with 285/35/19 Bridgestone RE71RS tires.
• A BMR fonrt sway bar set in the middle setting, so one "step" stiffer than stock, which provides more rear traction without adding too much understeer.
• All the camber possible (-2.7 front and -1.9 rear on my car) and zero toe front and 1/16" toe in rear.

I agree with staying stock, just from a stock perspective. There are things I don't like about the CAM rules, but not going to hijack the thread. The PAX index (which you probably have never heard of before now) isn't one of them. The main reason to avoid CAM is cost. I keep a list of mods I'd want to do if I entered CAM and how much it would all cost - that's more than enough to keep me away! If you have an SS 1LE or any one of three different Mustang versions, then you just need one extra set of wheels/tires, one sway bar, and an alignment and you have fully competitive equipment. The only remaining thing to spend time/money on is improving your driving skills. That's were seat time comes in.

[DaveC113]

Originally Posted by Msquared

Tyler, as a point of reference, when you rode with me on my first run, that was with:

• All nannies off (forgot to point that out before the run).
• 19x10 and 19x11 with 285/35/19 Bridgestone RE71RS tires.
• A BMR fonrt sway bar set in the middle setting, so one "step" stiffer than stock, which provides more rear traction without adding too much understeer.
• All the camber possible (-2.7 front and -1.9 rear on my car) and zero toe front and 1/16" toe in rear.

I agree with staying stock, just from a stock perspective. There are things I don't like about the CAM rules, but not going to hijack the thread. The PAX index (which you probably have never heard of before now) isn't one of them. The main reason to avoid CAM is cost. I keep a list of mods I'd want to do if I entered CAM and how much it would all cost - that's more than enough to keep me away! If you have an SS 1LE or any one of three different Mustang versions, then you just need one extra set of wheels/tires, one sway bar, and an alignment and you have fully competitive equipment. The only remaining thing to spend time/money on is improving your driving skills. That's were seat time comes in.

Cost and PAX do have some relation though. I don't think PAX is necessarily off given the ruleset, it just costs a lot to have a competitive car where it is now and there's nothing in between FS and wide-open CAM.

[DaveC113]

Originally Posted by joelster

CAMC pax sucks now. My car was more competitive last year than it is this year and I have a fairly optimized wing. I tested it at 5 different angles and have it where it's making the most downforce at the speeds I run. It simply isn't going to knock a half second off of my time on a 35 second course like the PAX bump reflects. The wing rules aren't going to do anything to increase car count as well, since a lot of FS guys that dabble into CAMC aren't going to make the jump any more. It's such a backwards step imo.

My biggest issue with this whole thing is I went from BS to CAM based on the current rules and PAX, which put CAMC in between AS and BS, and this was radically changed the very next year.

It's still worth it to me though, I may not be as competitive but the car drives a lot better vs it's street class form, which is more fun.

My codriver just beat a GT350 this weekend that trophied at Nats, he's a great driver but it does show how capable these cars are even without a big-$ build. I wasn't that far behind... didn't beat the Mustang but came pretty close.

[1LECRUSH]

I had to google what the PAX time meant but it does make sense now. I'll have to save over winter for a spare wheel and tire set, will try to find a good local place to get the alignment done. But until then, driver mod is definitely the most important. I've got the last SCCA event and then I'm doing the last event with the first organization I ran with.

[DaveC113]

Originally Posted by 1LECRUSH

I had to google what the PAX time meant but it does make sense now. I'll have to save over winter for a spare wheel and tire set, will try to find a good local place to get the alignment done. But until then, driver mod is definitely the most important. I've got the last SCCA event and then I'm doing the last event with the first organization I ran with.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=620183

[1LECRUSH]

Originally Posted by DaveC113

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=620183

The want is strong but my wallet currently says no. If by some miracle you still have them in the spring I'll hit you up.