Sound after chanint timing chain

[B.mik]

Hello guys, my trusted mechanic changed the timing chain (with tensioners and idlers)from 2 days, and wow it was a huge difference, but today i heard a sound from the engine which i think might be metal retal and its loud, what could be the problem? I talked to the mechanic and i will be bringing him the car monday, the sound wasn’t there before. No check engine light as well, he told me it might be the water pump, i forgot to tell him to change it while fixing the chain.

[PieNsky]

No need to have changed the water pump when changing out the timing chains. Doubt it is the pump, however, it is an easy job.

[B.mik]

Originally Posted by PieNsky

No need to have changed the water pump when changing out the timing chains. Doubt it is the pump, however, it is an easy job.

Thanks for the reply mate, here is a video of the sound:
https://youtu.be/P-Gql9idrn4

Is there something wrong in my newly installed chain, or is it coming from the pulleys and serpentine belt, i am scared to drive the car to him in this condition.

[B.mik]

So it came out to be a faulty oil pump, he changed it car is pretty smooth now but the pressure on my gauge is now reaching 6-7 psi when idle on 220F ?? Am i missing something here? shouldn’t the pressure increase when changing the pump? I was getting 13 psi on idle same temp before changing the pump..

[PieNsky]

Originally Posted by B.mik

So it came out to be a faulty oil pump, he changed it car is pretty smooth now but the pressure on my gauge is now reaching 6-7 psi when idle on 220F ?? Am i missing something here? shouldn’t the pressure increase when changing the pump? I was getting 13 psi on idle same temp before changing the pump..

I watched a video where the guy said not to replace the bottom chain guide when doing the timing chains as it had something to do with the clearances on the oil pump. He said it was critical. What he suggested was to remove the nylon guide from the new bracket and switch it out with the one on the old bracket while leaving it bolted in place.

[B.mik]

Originally Posted by PieNsky

I watched a video where the guy said not to replace the bottom chain guide when doing the timing chains as it had something to do with the clearances on the oil pump. He said it was critical. What he suggested was to remove the nylon guide from the new bracket and switch it out with the one on the old bracket while leaving it bolted in place.

Damn... what am i supposed to do in this situation? Oil pressure is reaching like 6 PSI at warm idle.. i always worry about toasting the engine because of lack of lubircation, i was getting 13 PSI before he changed my pump.. other than that the car is running pretty smooth and no weird sounds.. could it be he messed up with the oring or some leak somewhere that reduces the pressure or a failing sensor thats leading to wrong gauge pressure ? Pfft this thing is always on my mind, i payed a ****load recently on maintenance and i don’t want to end up losing an engine.

[PieNsky]

Here is the video. I didn't do it exactly like this. I did have the locking cam tools on the cams that isn't shown. No way would I try to do it without them. I think he talks about the lower guide at 3:30 . All I know is I did remove mine and replaced it as I saw this video after doing the job. If I had know to remove the just the insert , I would have done that.
What does the shop that did the work think about the oil pressure?

[B.mik]

Originally Posted by PieNsky

Here is the video. I didn't do it exactly like this. I did have the locking cam tools on the cams that isn't shown. No way would I try to do it without them. I think he talks about the lower guide at 3:30 . All I know is I did remove mine and replaced it as I saw this video after doing the job. If I had know to remove the just the insert , I would have done that.
What does the shop that did the work think about the oil pressure?

I see, my mechanic said thats its normal since the car is on high mileage (130k) because of the tear and wear(higher clearance on bearings) and that his corvette idles at 5 psi when warm, the problem is that i didn’t face this issue until he worked on my car... yesterday i realized that the engine bay smells burnt oil, i think he messed up when installing the pump and its leaking.. i was thinking of taking it to the dealership for a check up but i will have to pay a looot or i can pay the mechanic 200$ to open it up again since he declined to check the issue since he thinks its normal... if i take it the dealership what should i tell them? I am not willing to pay 1k on this..

[B.mik]

https://imgur.com/Sr3ZEQP

[PieNsky]

I think it is BS that is normal. I'll check out what my son's is at idle and will post the video for you to show the mechanic .

[B.mik]

Originally Posted by PieNsky

I think it is BS that is normal. I'll check out what my son's is at idle and will post the video for you to show the mechanic .

Thanks man i appreciate your help, do you think this will, in anyway, affect the engine? because i daily drive this thing, and i check my oil every 2 days.

[Sinister10]

5 psi is too low...something isnt right.

[PieNsky]

Originally Posted by PieNsky

https://youtu.be/R6zwudC89WU

Whoops , typo on the year
My son had just got home less than ten minutes before I shot this video. Everything is at operating temperature. Had the oil been cold , the pressure would have been higher. At start up for this video , it held 70 P.S.I. at fast idle. What does everyone else holding for their pressure at operating temperature?

[DSX_Camaro]

Mine idles around 30# and regularly gets to 70# while driving.