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Old 12-10-2018, 09:26 PM   #43
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Good thing you didn't try it yourself. Imagine what a nightmare you would have!
One thing I have learned is that everybody, no matter how experienced, at one time or another, screws something up. Multi-million dollar race teams are not excluded.
I wouldn't pressure them. A good shop will know who to turn to when they have an issue.

Just so it's good to go when you get it back.
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Old 12-11-2018, 12:48 AM   #44
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Good thing you didn't try it yourself. Imagine what a nightmare you would have!
One thing I have learned is that everybody, no matter how experienced, at one time or another, screws something up. Multi-million dollar race teams are not excluded.
I wouldn't pressure them. A good shop will know who to turn to when they have an issue.

Just so it's good to go when you get it back.
Good advice. In the end, it's not the screw up that matters, it's the recovery.
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Old 12-11-2018, 09:45 AM   #45
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I'm a little perplexed at how they would strip the a pinion flange bolt. I assume they are talking about one of the bolts that connects the driveshaft to the pinion flange. If memory serves correct three are regular hex-head nut and bolts, and the other three are a T-60 torx bolt that threads right into the driveshaft. I can't remember exactly to be honest. My guess would be somebody had the wrong size torx bit or something along those lines. I've had mine in and out more times than I'd like to have, and I've never had a problem.

CamaroFred has good advice, I wouldn't be concerned at this point, everybody makes mistakes. They didn't try to cover it up, they told you what happened, so that shows integrity there.

One thing you may want to clarify with them is that I believe the TruTrac requires NON-synthetic gear oil WITHOUT friction modifiers. This is different than the OE requirements, which is for a synthetic WITH the friction modifier for the factory LSD. Just something you'll want to confirm with them. I can't remember the exact logic on why, but TruTrac should specify there lubrication requirements in their instructions. The shop could easily get confused because if they look up the OE spec it's gonna be different. I'd ask them to be sure they go with what Eaton specs.

Either way, you're gonna be changing it in 500 (gentle, varying your speed, a few 20 minute full heat cycles to start with) miles. The shop will likely tell you what they want to see from your for break in, and the gear manufacturer likely specified in their documentation as well. New gears break in pretty dirty and once they wear that initial coating off you'll want to get some fresh lube in there. That's a easy DIY job you can do with a jack and drain pan in your own driveway.

Can't wait to hear what you think!
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Old 12-11-2018, 09:58 AM   #46
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I'm a little perplexed at how they would strip the a pinion flange bolt. I assume they are talking about one of the bolts that connects the driveshaft to the pinion flange. If memory serves correct three are regular hex-head nut and bolts, and the other three are a T-60 torx bolt that threads right into the driveshaft. I can't remember exactly to be honest. My guess would be somebody had the wrong size torx bit or something along those lines. I've had mine in and out more times than I'd like to have, and I've never had a problem.
I'm perplexed as well. Like you, the only thing I can imagine is they stripped one of the driveline to differential bolts. At the differential, my car has 3 bolts with 18mm hex heads connecting to the driveline. These are regular bolts with nothing out of the ordinary about them. Apparently they are unobtanium because they can't get replacements until tomorrow morning.

All I can say is that I hope the dipstick that muffed the differential install isn't the same person who set up the gears. I'm pissed because now I'm going to have a hard time being confident in their work. Every time I hear a strange noise I'm going to be wondering if my diff is about to come apart...
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Old 12-11-2018, 10:08 AM   #47
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I'm perplexed as well. Like you, the only thing I can imagine is they stripped one of the driveline to differential bolts. At the differential, my car has 3 bolts with 18mm hex heads connecting to the driveline. These are regular bolts with nothing out of the ordinary about them. Apparently they are unobtanium because they can't get replacements until tomorrow morning.

All I can say is that I hope the dipstick that muffed the differential install isn't the same person who set up the gears. I'm pissed because now I'm going to have a hard time being confident in their work. Every time I hear a strange noise I'm going to be wondering if my diff is about to come apart...
It would not surprise me at all that they have a more junior guy pull the diff out of the car, and then their more seasoned tech actually setup the gears. I wouldn't borrow trouble just yet.
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Old 12-11-2018, 10:18 AM   #48
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It would not surprise me at all that they have a more junior guy pull the diff out of the car, and then their more seasoned tech actually setup the gears. I wouldn't borrow trouble just yet.
I'm hoping that's the case. I admit that I let this kinda stuff bother me too much, but it's my nature to worry about stuff when problems arise that are more or less out of my control.
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Old 12-12-2018, 02:51 PM   #49
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I talked to the owner of the shop earlier today. He is still waiting for the pinion flange to show up. The technician that was installing the diff put the wrong bolt in and spun it down with his impact. It sounds like it is being taken care of correctly and that is all that matters at this point. The shop owner said that he chewed the guy out royally and doesn't expect him to repeat the mistake. I asked if it's ok for me to chew the guy out a little bit when I pick up the car and the owner said that would be fine. I'm not gonna destroy the kid, but these kind of mistakes should have a bit of sting to them so that the lessons are remembered for a long time.
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Old 12-12-2018, 03:13 PM   #50
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Looking forward to hearing how different the car feels after the install. Sucks they ran into a problem, but hey that is life. As long as they correct it, then move on and enjoy the car.
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Old 12-12-2018, 09:17 PM   #51
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I got the car back today after work. The owner is a stand up guy and he fixed everything the kid screwed up and also knocked a few bucks off of the labor for my trouble.

Everything with the car and the new gears seems to be good. I was instructed to take it very easy on the car for the first 500 miles. No freeway driving, no driving over 55, no long trips, no burnouts, no dyno pulls, etc. The shop owner loaned me his infrared temp sensor gun and told me to check the diff cover temp after driving it a home. I drove it home on surface streets and really took it easy. It's cold here, so that helped too. It was 115*F when I got home. I'll check it tomorrow when I get to work.

So far, it is obvious that the car pulls much better from a dead stop. Keep in mind that I was always accelerating very slowly and without giving it much throttle. With the old gears, the car would kinda fall on its face and struggle to accelerate a little bit under the same conditions. Today the car didn't lug, didn't fall on its face at all. Nice smooth acceleration at slow speeds. I can tell already that I love the new gears, but it will be a little while before I can romp on it from a dead stop, so I can't comment further.

Bitch drives like a champ in granny mode!!
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Old 12-13-2018, 07:55 AM   #52
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Once that thing is broke it you're gonna party! Third gear will now blow your mind. Car will just feel lighter, stand up quicker, it's all around awesome.
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Old 12-13-2018, 08:35 AM   #53
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I drove the car to work this morning. I can really tell the difference in the RPM in all of the gears. It really did transform the car. No more constantly downshifting to keep the RPMs up and it pulls good from a dead stop.

The gear case was 119*, which is well below the not to exceed (as per the shop) temp of 180*.

The new gears do produce more noise than the factory gears, but I expected that. Hopefully they will quiet down a bit as they wear in. The technician at the shop warned me that they might actually get a little bit louder. Oh well, thank goodness for Boston Acoustics!!

I am so glad that you came in here ande convinced me to go with 4.10 gears, acammer. Thanks for the excellent advise and all of the technical information that you shared with me!
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Tuned by GPI
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BMR cradle & diff bushings, trailing arms, toe rods & upper control arm bushings
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Stop Tech Z-23 brakes
4.10 gears, Eaton Truetrac, LPW diff cover
Best 1/4 mile 12.073 @ 115.68 mph 3,300 ft DA

Last edited by zlathim; 12-13-2018 at 08:49 AM.
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Old 12-13-2018, 08:40 AM   #54
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Get on it son. I drove from my tuners shop to the track....about an hour. Let the car cool and let her rip. That was 2 years ago ...zero issues. That includes zero noise....mine dont make a sound and neither should yours imo.
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Old 12-13-2018, 08:47 AM   #55
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Ha Ha! I'm a little more conservative than that. It's a struggle, but I'm going to put a few more miles on the old girl before I get crazy. However, I have an appointment for a new set of tires next week, and i'd really like to burn these Pirellis off in a cloud of tire smoke first.... hmmmmm...
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BMR cradle & diff bushings, trailing arms, toe rods & upper control arm bushings
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Best 1/4 mile 12.073 @ 115.68 mph 3,300 ft DA
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Old 12-13-2018, 09:43 AM   #56
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I drove the car to work this morning. I can really tell the difference in the RPM in all of the gears. It really did transform the car. No more constantly downshifting to keep the RPMs up and it pulls good from a dead stop.

The gear case was 119*, which is well below the not to exceed (as per the shop) temp of 180*.

The new gears do produce more noise than the factory gears, but I expected that. Hopefully they will quiet down a bit as they wear in. The technician at the shop warned me that they might actually get a little bit louder. Oh well, thank goodness for Boston Acoustics!!

I am so glad that you came in here ande convinced me to go with 4.10 gears, acammer. Thanks for the excellent advise and all of the technical information that you shared with me!
It's not likely they're gonna wear in and get quieter. Part of the problem we have with these cars is the housing is just so small, so getting a 4.10 ratio in there requires a real small pinion and a pretty major helical twist, it's just hard to make it quiet.

I've had sets that were silent, and sets that made some whining. I have a set right now that's louder than the exhaust with the cutouts open - they are getting replaced this spring.

I would definitely get a few heat cycles on them before pounding on them too hard. Whether you really need to go 500 miles, I doubt it, but I also don't see where it can hurt.

I think you'll be happy you went with the 4.10. Enjoy!
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