Solid Subframe Bushings

[13ZL1BLove]

Anyone running or recommend Pfadt solid subframe bushings?

[CanadianZL1#992]

Originally Posted by 13ZL1BLove

Anyone running or recommend Pfadt solid subframe bushings?

I had them installed in my car but can't drive the car for another two month lol. I'd be happy to let you know how the work out then.

[13ZL1BLove]

Yeah I live in the Chicago area so I can't either. I did find this video on youtube which does a pretty good job on selling them.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6yOz--DIuIc

[CanadianZL1#992]

Originally Posted by 13ZL1BLove

Yeah I live in the Chicago area so I can't either. I did find this video on youtube which does a pretty good job on selling them.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6yOz--DIuIc

I saw the video also. I actually got them before I saw it because davenport had my rear subframe out to install my dual fuel pump. They called and said half cost of the job is labour to remove the subframe and I'd save that because the subframe is already out so I went for it!!

[mmarx82]

I just did mine over the weekend but haven't had a chance to drive it yet so no opinion just yet. I'll have it out on the road this afternoon. The instructions are not for a ZL1 so there are missing steps in it and since we have rear differential cooler then don't expect to get the car up high on a lift if you want to leave those lines connected. The removal procedure is not completely accurate for our cars since it wasn't updated for a ZL1. I'll say that what I found best to do is use a sawzall and cut close to the aluminum piece to the subframe then cut along the subframe upto that aluminum piece to take out that whole section. Use a mallet or blow hammer to knock out the bottom metal plate, then use a drill and large bit and on the top part you cut off, drill right at the edge of the bushing into the plastic part (not the rubber part). Do 3-4 holes not far from each other and on the last one start wallowing it out into the other holes. Once done try a blow hammer to knock it out. If it doesn't come out then make more holes and repeat.

That said, I'm pretty upset with PFADT not answering the phone, returning my phone calls from the messages I left, responding to my emails or the Facebook message I left asking someone to call me. All I was trying to do is get them to change my shipping address for the rest of the parts I was waiting on since I moved. Really PO'd with them right now especially since I spent around $3,200 on their parts.

[CanadianZL1#992]

Let us know when you get a chance to drive it

[ZL1-V]

Not running PFADT, I thought the solid would be too much but that's not the case after talking to owners of them. I ended up with Pedders system instead. I would definitely say the bushings have made a huge difference in the feeling of the rear end of my ZL1. I am sure you'll feel it right away.

[jessrayo]

I cannot give a before and after assessment because I put them on 2 days after I bought the car. I have the ADM solid subframe bushings and my car is rock solid on the road course. I saw the videos and it looks like if you push it, they are going to help.

[DJ-Silver 2SS]

I have a buddy that installed a set on his, and he is now rethinking putting them on. It now has a lot of road noise that he doesn't like. It did make the rear solid, but almost too solid depending on what you want to do with your car. Tracking=solid is great, regular driving=too much noise and road beating. Just my 2cents.

[13ZL1BLove]

Did any of you notice more road noise and or an increase in wheel hop?

[Apex Motorsports]

Originally Posted by 13ZL1BLove

Did any of you notice more road noise and or an increase in wheel hop?

Solid rear bushings will reduce wheel hop and improve traction and rear end stability. There is a small amount of increased NVH but it is still appropriate for daily driving in my opinion. If you are concerned with that then a good set of poly bushings (BMR Pro version) would be my recommendation.

[hognutz]

don't forget to look at ADM as well. $689 vs $499 they are both 6061-T6


I will something here before summer.

there is really no way for this to increase wheelhop it can only help.

wheelhop is flex and rebound.

1. diff bushings
2. subframe bushings
3. toe bushings
5. trailing arm bushings
6. lower control arm bushings
7. upper control arm bushings

=wheelhop

as you can se there are tons of points that can flex. I was told that doing the upper conrol amr bush wile you have the cradle down is a good idea.

I have been told that going too high on the diff bushing in durometer can induce gear whine if you setup is off a bit and the factor bushings hide this in alot of cases so you won't alway no you have it till you do it.

I did trailing amrs and toe rods like a dummy first. I should have done rear subframe and uppter control arms bushings I think.

[gen=5]

Wow solid ,that's really going all out..I do not think i would go that route, but if your main concern is building a track car,then go for it....

I just do not see it as a upgrade for a DD ,as it will cause road noise,and it will get worse as the car gets older....been there done that before...Also it can effect your warranty on your power train,and suspension...
I have seen components crack over time because of having solid bushing in for long periods of time,and no the dealership did not cover the parts under the warranty...
I always believe poly is the best way to go....

[BMR Sales]

I would recommend our "Pro Version" Cradle Bushings (BK024), which are made from a high durometer polyurethane that will provide a much more solid platform for the rear suspension over the stock rubber cradle bushings....with very minimal (if any) additional NVH side effects.