06-16-2014, 03:39 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2012 1SS/RS Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 344
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BMR UCA Bushing/Mount install Q's (BK039)
Hi Guys,
Recently purchased a set of BMR's UCA mounts/bushes part BK039. I know their instructions for install are very good and thorough but they are also extremely lengthy... I saw on the forum that some people were figuring out ways to install these without even lowering the rear subframe (I guess just removed the rear wheels on a lift and went for it)? Well I got the car up on a lift this weekend and got the wheels off and there is just not a chance in hell that I will able to install these without at least lowering the rear cradle. Even then I don't see it happening. Has anyone had any experience installing these? Any helpful tips or tricks? I'm not saying that the people who said they did it with one wrench and a bunch of creativity are wrong, just saying that I am not capable of such feats. Thanks for the help as always. If I can't figure out a way to get these installed with relative ease (hey, I'm lazy) I'll probably throw them up for sale unused in the classified for a decent discount, so if you're interested in that please PM me.
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"Driving is the only thing I love about f1."
(Kimi Raikkonen) |
06-16-2014, 04:15 PM | #2 |
Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seffner, FL
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Yep, I installed mine without lowering the cradle. I never said it was easy, but it can be done. Lowering the cradle a couple inches does make it exponentially easier, as you will have more room to get the tools up in there to get the bolts loose. I still wouldn't expect to be able to use a torque wrench in the confined space, but a little blue Loctite and "Good-n-Tight" torque specs worked good for me. The BK039's are worth the effort, don't give up yet!!!
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06-16-2014, 04:30 PM | #3 |
Drives: Chevys at the limit Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 9,621
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Most things worth doing are not easy. Don't give up yet bud! Maybe consider just hanging on to them and do some good subframe bushings at the same time to make it worth the effort.
Best regards, Tyler 888-308-6007 |
06-16-2014, 04:36 PM | #4 |
Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seffner, FL
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Tyler always gives such good advice!!!
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06-16-2014, 04:58 PM | #5 |
Drives: Chevys at the limit Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: SLC, UT
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06-16-2014, 05:47 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2012 1SS/RS Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 344
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Thanks guys I appreciate the push. I really would love to go to full bushings for the subframe (only have inserts now) but I really don't know how to get the stock ones out. I know someone did it by lowering the car onto a socket placed on the OEM bushing? What a boss. Do the BMR subframe bushing have to be pressed in w massive force or can you do it w hand tools???
I only have access to my pop's fancy center post lift for another two weeks so I'm going to have to make moves!
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"Driving is the only thing I love about f1."
(Kimi Raikkonen) |
06-16-2014, 05:56 PM | #7 |
Drives: 2012 1SS/RS Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 344
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"Driving is the only thing I love about f1."
(Kimi Raikkonen) |
06-16-2014, 06:13 PM | #8 |
2010 2SS/RS M6
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Auckland, NZ
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Next weekend, this will be me as well. Except I will also be doing cradle bushings, trailing arms (with bushings), and ZL1 springs. I am not looking forward to being stuck underneath the car for the better part of a weekend (at least you have access to a lift).
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2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq
Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build |
06-16-2014, 06:42 PM | #9 |
Drives: 2012 1SS/RS Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 344
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Cool man! It's not bad working on these cars, fun actually. You will have a good time and your car is going to be a monster after all that work!
Read all the install guides (it may or may not go this way, but good to know all the size tools you need) and bring all your patience. The rest will just happen. I want those trailing arms!
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"Driving is the only thing I love about f1."
(Kimi Raikkonen) |
06-16-2014, 06:45 PM | #10 |
2010 2SS/RS M6
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Auckland, NZ
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I've done most of the work myself (including partially dropping the cradle). It isn't particularly difficult, it's just a bit more tedious dealing with jackstands and sliding on my back on the floor...
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2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq
Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build |
06-16-2014, 06:48 PM | #11 |
Drives: 2012 1SS/RS Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 344
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I would imagine. Thats how I work on my friends rx7. Def not as easy
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"Driving is the only thing I love about f1."
(Kimi Raikkonen) |
06-17-2014, 02:34 PM | #12 | |
Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seffner, FL
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Quote:
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06-18-2014, 08:51 AM | #13 |
Drives: 2012 1SS/RS Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 344
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Thanks for the info. I'm turned off by the full poly subframe bushings honestly. Mr. Dinan as a guest on The Smoking Tire Podcast explained why he doesn't use polys and I think he's right. They also have no used re-sale value, or at least if they did you're not going to get the oem ones back in. I think a brace is way better way to go.
A brace works as well as the expensive metal bushings, you can revert back to oem w simple hand tools and harvest about 50% of the initial cost back (Hotchkiss max sub-frame brace which lists around $500, so assume it was purchased new for slightly under that, just sold in the classifieds for $200 in like a single day...). The brace I would think is beneficial to manufacturers as well because you have space to brand it and it is somewhat visible to people who know what they're looking for (the metal bushing and inserts are too I suppose). Best of all you don't have to fight those damn oem bushes out. Only two negatives I see are that the brace weighs more... who are we kidding though, it's a Camaro. and the brace costs a point or two in SCCA/NASA competition classification where the bushings are freebies. Maybe I'm missing something but doesn't a simple bolt-on brace sound better than removing the subframe and sawzalling some oem shit out of there. I mean that operation for someone as inexperienced as myself represents a lot of risk to a vehicle I depend on as my daily driver, if I'm just one tool short bye-bye transportation.
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"Driving is the only thing I love about f1."
(Kimi Raikkonen) |
06-18-2014, 08:58 AM | #14 |
Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011
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A brace is a bandaid for the underlying problem and will not reduce movement nearly as well. Just use inserts if you're worried about doing it right with a full replacement.
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