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Old 09-11-2017, 04:47 PM   #15
Drives: 2013 2RSS 1LE
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Austin
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Originally Posted by Reaper85 View Post
98 octane may be correct depending on where he lives. Over in Europe there fuel goes by a different rating. I Believe 93 octane = 98 ron.
Exactly, Europe uses RON. US octane ratings are (RON+MON)/2 (which is the "AKI" or anti-knock index).

RON is low speed/load, MON is high speed/load so AKI takes a mix of the two. 93AKI is about equivalent to 98RON.

You can always plug in numbers to a 1/4 mile least the trap speed might be in the ball park.

Various calculators with 3900lbs at 620whp indicate trap of 126mph, with ET of 10.6. I like bench racing
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Old 09-11-2017, 05:30 PM   #16

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Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6
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lol...did not realize you were "down under mate!" your octane is what it is...dd'ing is "daily driver" lol...just suggesting getting to know the car in and out before racing IMHO pay's big dividends in hopefully better driver/car performance and in turn hopefully less to zero broken parts...would royally SUC to get to the track and blow an axle/ get the picture..

drove my car for a year before going to the track this year with it...and still a major eye opener!
2010 SS 2SS M6-Spectre CAI-JET TBS-JBA Shorty Headers-ARH H/F Cats-Doug Thorley axle back-MSD 12v coil harness mod-PAC 1218's-BTR 3/8 7.4 push rods-Powell Machine bronze rocker bushings-Prothane motor mounts-Prothane rear sub-frame inserts-BMR Trailing Arms & bushings-1LE 3.91's-1LE axles-Ford S-spring posi-mod-Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot)-Daily Driver-120K!-12.7 at 112-1.9 60'(3.45's)-BFG Comp-2 Street Tire-stock size on ZL1 reps(20x8.5)(20x9.5)-DR's Nitto NT05R(305/45) on Motegi MT120 18x9.5-12.1 at 114-1.7 60'(3.91's) All work by me...
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Old 09-11-2017, 06:08 PM   #17
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Well with sticky tires you could easily break a axle with no upgrades to the trailing arms and toe or the diff being stiffened with a LPW could wheel hop it to death also..the axles and the diff... so taking it easy until you can put the power to the ground repeatedly and have it grip well and know your not going to go drag race is how you live with more power until you make other needed upgrades. Sure you can do rolling burnouts but hard launches are well beyond the rating of the stock axles and I tend to stay 3500 rpm launches and without stickies and shifting about 5500 ish....LOL
When the shift light says Hey....and I am like most likely 500 after that before shift....if really hitting the throttle but tend to be a daily driver more trying to rev match not hit the next gears so fast as in racing to 120+

So much depends on the driver and traction and your 60 ft you have to try to learn to be good at in order to progress. Your power level should be in the 11s or lower if righteous but there is a bit difference between a manual and a automatic as far as consistency, and a good engine requires a good clutch like I have for a Manual and a good converter and shift tune for the automatic. Good Luck.

You as you know have ZL1 rockers and some other spoiler and what appears to be 21" wheels not the most drag friendly that's for sure or price friendly for the rubber either. But with such a low sidewall its run flat most likely IMO, and you have the blacked out look pretty well covered. I don't know other than most likely your having headers what your exhaust set up is, but you have come to the right place to read up on threads of others in the community. In appearance with the 21"
wheels it kind of makes it look lower and its from the sidewall I think it is at stock ride height and not lowered. It most likely got the coil overs when its struts wore and bigger brembos because? look like the stock size to me also as far as I can see the Caliper. Nice additions but not necessary to get the power to the ground. So you may want to look at the suspension every upgrade is important down the line for a big HP gain, and drastically can affect E.T. and makes you wonder whats underneath.... Just at my power level with 500 RWTQ I take it easy on my N/A build knowing someday I have to have a zl1 rear or 1000 hp axles..... Street tire the supposed 50000 mile tires with good traction I squat so much going around I wear the insides of the rear more and then they get low by about 10k just from torque shifting ( fishy), and it requires of course a higher take off for stall about 1500 to avoid cam surge so I don't even really have to try to burn out and still wear the tires down too dang fast. I do have a account with the local tire store chain though...LOL And you may find you want to go with 20s like most as prices here for 21 22" tires usually suck compared to just 20s for the street anyway.... To really drag you would need a separate set of drag radials most likely 18"...
2013 2SS/RS LS3 M6 ,CRT, NPP, Forged 428 ls3 stroker, GMPP ported heads, Katech chain, Mast windage, Cam Motion Cam, trunnion upgrade, Stainless Power headers HFC, CAI w/kit, Vmax PTD, Fluidampr25% udp, LPW diff cover, BMR strut brace,trailing arms, toes, bushings, Rocket racing wheels,Toyo Proxes 4+, elite catch can, clutch reservoir, dash/body LED, DRL rewire, Sparks billet badges, Forza 3way, tint, MRT louvers, ZL1 spoiler, MGW short throw, Monster dual LT1S clutch, bleeder, support, high vol pump, Speed hut shift light, ACC flames stripes, Driven ls30 oil, NGK TR6IX , Granatelli wires.
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Old 09-11-2017, 06:27 PM   #18
Drives: Black beast
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Ahh yes forgot to mention im in Aus. 98 is the good stuff at our pumps and 93 is the regular stuff everyone uses. Ok good to know about the axles and diff before getting sticky tyres. Last thing id want is something to go bang at the track. The last owner used to take it to some track somewhere where you could just race around it by yourself or with other people. Got some videos of him pulling away from a r35 gtr skyline pretty easily. Might look into upgading the drivetrain then. Although getting parts over heres probably gona be a pain.
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Old 09-11-2017, 07:36 PM   #19
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With those tires, you'd be lucky to run 12s at all. More like 13s.
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Old 09-11-2017, 08:48 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by jrhagen View Post
With those tires, you'd be lucky to run 12s at all. More like 13s.

Plus if you have no upgrades to the drivetrain, I wouldn't even bother going to the track if I were you.
491 hp/438 tq

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Old 09-11-2017, 11:15 PM   #21
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Drives: 2013 ZL1 Black
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Very nice looking car...Welcome aboard...
Vengeance Racing Stage 1 Kit 575rwhp, 569 rwtq...
Rims powder coated gloss black...BFG'S Comp 2 A/S...
Dual 10" Kicker Comp S Subs 1200w...

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Old 09-14-2017, 09:09 AM   #22

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lol, I saw the license plate and palm trees and figured he was in Queensland county, Florida.
Smoked tail lights/ZL1-1LE 3rd brake
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Old 09-14-2017, 02:33 PM   #23

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Drives: 2010 ABM SS/RS A6
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Those rims and tires will slow you down a lot No Grip, No Width, No Side wall to flex on launch.

I'm saying 13.2 on your first pass.

The vehicles engine is capable of 10s all day long though. Rest of the car needs attention to be straight line fast.
2010 ABM SS/RS A6 w/Mojave

9.926@137.67 - 1.401 60' ft

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Old 09-14-2017, 04:26 PM   #24
Drives: 2014 2ss/rs
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as others have said... it's not the horsepower... it's the driver, but horsepower helps. Dyno sheet for my car....

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some timeslips.

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Old 09-14-2017, 04:39 PM   #25
Drives: 2013 2RSS 1LE
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Originally Posted by Netraa View Post
as others have said... it's not the horsepower... it's the driver, but horsepower helps.
Nice results. What HP mods to your car? A6/M6?
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Old 09-14-2017, 05:24 PM   #26
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I did not read all the comments, but i see the nitto invo's and that looks like a 22" wheels. 22" wheels + PD blower 600whp + Nitto invo's = high 12's

You will more than likely obliterate the tires out the hole and eventually bog till it hooks and roll to a 12/13 sec time slip at 122 with a 2.30 60'

These are my bench racer, arm chair quarter backn predictions.
2010 2SS/RS -Huron Single Turbo Precision 76/75 cea
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Old 09-16-2017, 04:15 AM   #27
Drives: Black beast
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Bowen
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Yep they are 22inch/265 not alot of grip. if i put my foot down in first or second it will lose traction. And i got a list of the mods done from the owner, he says,
LSA Motor,
6060(mg9) Gearbox 6 speed
Twin Plate Clutch
1000cc Injectors
Street Fighter Cam ( dosnt remember grind)
Big Springs and push Rods
11 PSI Pulley
ZL1 Fuel pump
High Volume oil pump
Whindage Tray and scraper in sump
Custom maffless tune by East Coast Customs
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Old 09-16-2017, 11:25 AM   #28
Mr. Nasty
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With your set up and M6 maybe low 13s

If you had that HP with a auto and the rite set up. Should be low 10s.
As for the shock axles and diff on a auto they will hold up just fine.
As long as you don't let it wheel hop.
Best @ 586/525 =10.41 @ 133
AS OF 12/13/14>633 RWHP =10.22@135
AS OF 1/31/15 @ 633 RWHP=10.16@135
AS OF 1/29/16 @ 633 RWHP=10.10@136
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