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Old 06-25-2022, 06:27 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by Camaro2ss2010 View Post
Not sure if it makes much of a difference but on the header side of the flange that goes in the exhaust itself I cut a v notch before welding in so there would be less resistance per say and less flange inside the exhaust blocking it.
Hmmm, I never paid any attention to that one.
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Old 06-26-2022, 04:08 AM   #58
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Originally Posted by Camaro2ss2010 View Post
Not sure if it makes much of a difference but on the header side of the flange that goes in the exhaust itself I cut a v notch before welding in so there would be less resistance per say and less flange inside the exhaust blocking it.
That's exactly what I'm thinking about. I don't want the flange to interfere with the exhaust at all.
It occurred to me to adjust the flange for the right direction under the car, to weld it to the exhaust, and only then to cut a hole inside which I would perfectly grind the shape of the flange tube.

I know ... I guess I deal with it unnecessarily. But if I do, let it be perfect to the last weld.
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Old 06-26-2022, 04:18 AM   #59
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Originally Posted by 1JEWLDSSRS View Post
Oh and George, when you have the car up on the lift and you are mocking/marking everything up, I took the actuators off of the mounting flange AFTER marking where they would be welded, so that all you had was the tubing after you made sure of the clearance where you wanted to weld the tubing to, then we angle cut the tubing, cut the holes in the pipes, then tacked them in place. Put the actuators and billet flanges back on to double make sure you have the proper clearance from the floor. Then take them back off and if you can, do like we did and REMOVE the center section of your exhaust and lay it on the floor so you can weld all around the tube where it attaches to the exhaust pipe, then reinstall it, and the actuators and run your cables and hook them up.. Wheeewwww that was a job.. lol. Good luck my friend!!
This is exactly my plan. Mainly find the right angles and cut the most accurate holes.
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Old 06-26-2022, 04:29 AM   #60
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The usb plug is really gonna blow his mind.
I know about USB input.
Due to its location, I have a low-profile storage.
But I never noticed that there is a socket.

I thought it was probably an air conditioning vent like other cars. I've never examined it further.
I've always used a socket with a flap next to the traction control button.

Yeah... One is always learning something
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Old 06-26-2022, 04:33 AM   #61
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Shhhhhhh... Don't tell him..
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Old 06-26-2022, 08:15 AM   #62
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Oh and George, if you have access to a plasma cutter, use that as the job will go soooo much smoother for all your cutting tasks.
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Old 06-26-2022, 10:15 PM   #63
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Had mine 6 months, fantastic, more kick and ohhhhh that sound!! cost all up around $1350 NZD Installed - These are the US Kindig unit-
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Old 06-27-2022, 06:31 PM   #64
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Very cool sir!! And yea, the SOUND, especially with a big cam!! Hot to trot.. lol.
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Old 06-28-2022, 04:09 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by 1JEWLDSSRS View Post
Oh and George, if you have access to a plasma cutter, use that as the job will go soooo much smoother for all your cutting tasks.
Of course I have a plasma cutter. I have everything ready and today I solved the last things.

I'll put them in the same place as you, but I'll do it a little differently.
The holes will be shaped differently and will be larger.

Now I must wait until a friend lets me into a workshop with a CNC machines and I start. (He has a lot of orders and has no time.)
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K&N CAI, Stainless Power longtubes, high flow cats, modified Ragazzon High Performance axle back, Soler Performance ported throttle body, Soler Performance throttle controller, RAM clutch adjuster, modified LS7 clutch kit, Tick Performance billet bearing support, Tick Performance remote bleeder, separate clutch reservoir, BMR trailing arms, BMR toe rods, Pedders Suspension cradle bushing inserts, Control Arm Bushings, Strut tower brace, oil catch can, Hurst T-handle shifter, 20mm wheel spacers, DBA brakes, QTP Cutouts, Dynosteve tune.
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Old 06-28-2022, 07:33 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by George-CZ View Post
Of course I have a plasma cutter. I have everything ready and today I solved the last things.

I'll put them in the same place as you, but I'll do it a little differently.
The holes will be shaped differently and will be larger.

Now I must wait until a friend lets me into a workshop with a CNC machines and I start. (He has a lot of orders and has no time.)
Awesome brother!! Good luck and have fun!!
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Old 06-29-2022, 07:16 AM   #67
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No one seems to like hearing this but the best favor you can do yourself is to skip the QTPs and install NoWeeds. It’s something that many people regret not doing and many wind up with diverters anyway. They’re easier to install, sound better and the motors are far away from the exhaust so heat is never an issue. A dollars worth of advice for two cents.
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Old 06-29-2022, 09:11 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by Rob3D View Post
No one seems to like hearing this but the best favor you can do yourself is to skip the QTPs and install NoWeeds. It’s something that many people regret not doing and many wind up with diverters anyway. They’re easier to install, sound better and the motors are far away from the exhaust so heat is never an issue. A dollars worth of advice for two cents.
If I iving in the states, so I'll buy them.
But given the high taxes and import prices in my country, You would probably get dizzy from the final price at your door.

That's why I chose QTP as a price / performance compromise.
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Old 07-01-2022, 08:26 AM   #69
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I see correctly that 2010 has a slightly different chassis?
I want to put the drive cutouts out side like 1JEWLDSSRS has, but the frame is in the way

Name:  cut outs2.jpg
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Name:  cut outs.jpg
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K&N CAI, Stainless Power longtubes, high flow cats, modified Ragazzon High Performance axle back, Soler Performance ported throttle body, Soler Performance throttle controller, RAM clutch adjuster, modified LS7 clutch kit, Tick Performance billet bearing support, Tick Performance remote bleeder, separate clutch reservoir, BMR trailing arms, BMR toe rods, Pedders Suspension cradle bushing inserts, Control Arm Bushings, Strut tower brace, oil catch can, Hurst T-handle shifter, 20mm wheel spacers, DBA brakes, QTP Cutouts, Dynosteve tune.
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Old 07-02-2022, 06:07 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by George-CZ View Post
I see correctly that 2010 has a slightly different chassis?
I want to put the drive cutouts out side like 1JEWLDSSRS has, but the frame is in the way

Attachment 1102781

Attachment 1102782
George, that pic I used is actually NOT my Camaro, I have my drive motors facing the outside of the car/rail. If you want to do them like the other guys are, and mine, you could always "tilt" them down some to clear the frame rail like I did. Also, do you have 2.5 or 3.0 inch exhaust? I have 3.0 on all the the system, which helps move things down some. Mine clears the rail by about 1/2 inch, you could also move them in closer to the center of the car on the pipes.
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