Clutch Failing

[Valkyrie14]

Originally Posted by The_bald_eagle_machine

I do not personally have experience with this part. But Lingenfelter has a solution for the pedal mash issue that you described and they still have them in stock.

https://www.lingenfelter.com/product/L360091410.html

It’s not so much that the pedal doesn’t come back up. To me that is a band aid for the problem. What makes the clutch fail? At the moment I should be shifting the transmission and engine are flying at 7,000 rpms.

If the pedal gets pulled back up, it will also be harder to engage to shift as well. IMO the clutch pedal is already too stiff.

Thanks for the link, if all else fails I will give it a try.

[Valkyrie14]

Originally Posted by Eastbaycamaro

I will be removing my McLeod RXT twin disks next week and put it up for sale. Got about 15 passes at the drag strip. It is a solid hub design pn# 6932-07

What are you switching to?

[Eastbaycamaro]

Ram single disk set up with the spring hub

[Batmanntexas]

I must be one lucky S.O.B......

80,100 total miles - Stock clutch.

68K miles have been with the Whipple. Car is making 800+rwhp currently, and to date, is not exhibiting any kind of clutch issue.

Granted, I'm not doing clutch dumps on the street, nor do I run it seriously at the 1/4-mile track. I just let the clutch out normally, let it get fully engaged and then stand on the loud pedal.

Maybe they slipped in a twin disk at the factory when no one was looking??

[Valkyrie14]

Originally Posted by Eastbaycamaro

Ram single disk set up with the spring hub

What didn’t you like about the twin and going back to a single?

I am thinking of a twin, not because of HP more because I have been told that a twin disc will have a lighter clutch feel. If I could get a lighter pedal from a single disc I would do that now and save $1000.

[Valkyrie14]

Originally Posted by Batmanntexas

I must be one lucky S.O.B......

80,100 total miles - Stock clutch.

68K miles have been with the Whipple. Car is making 800+rwhp currently, and to date, is not exhibiting any kind of clutch issue.

Granted, I'm not doing clutch dumps on the street, nor do I run it seriously at the 1/4-mile track. I just let the clutch out normally, let it get fully engaged and then stand on the loud pedal.

Maybe they slipped in a twin disk at the factory when no one was looking??

I had pedal mash from day one. Every time it happens my fluid goes black. And I am not even dumping the clutch that hard. I have been told it was the reservoir, the master cylinder, the line. I replaced all of those.

For what it is worth the clutch made it to 100,000 miles. The last 50,000 are mine. Previous owner had a nitrous tank in Chicago, so I assume he drove it hard and a lot of stop and start.

I’m no where near 800rwhp, I think it is more about abuse than power.

[Batmanntexas]

Originally Posted by Valkyrie14

I had pedal mash from day one. Every time it happens my fluid goes black. And I am not even dumping the clutch that hard. I have been told it was the reservoir, the master cylinder, the line. I replaced all of those.

For what it is worth the clutch made it to 100,000 miles. The last 50,000 are mine. Previous owner had a nitrous tank in Chicago, so I assume he drove it hard and a lot of stop and start.

I’m no where near 800rwhp, I think it is more about abuse than power.

I absolutely agree.

[oldman14ss]

i just bought the ram clutch with their own pressure plate, {not a revamped stock one } not that they aren't any good, this was just my personal preference, a semi metallic clutch disc and new flywheel. rated at 750 hp. the clutch has their patented 8 spring hub that is bolted and riveted. these guys have great set up instructions also. perfect reference points and very detailed.

[Eastbaycamaro]

I notice after I got the rxt that it’s a solid hub on both clutch disk. After that I broke my axle/spider gears then upgraded to Eaton trutrac and motive 4:10 and after about 7 passes I broke a bunch of teeth of the ring gear. My car is stock with 18 drag radial and best time of 12:90 with 1.84 60ft at 109mpg I notice on a video even at the 3rd to 4th shift I’m laid some rubber on the track. Decided to try the single disk spring hub so there’s some cushion in the drive train.

[Valkyrie14]

I am surprised to hear single disk. So many others on the forum have gone to the single disk. This is my DD/street racer, I have around 600rwhp give it take a few horses. If there is a single disk that will give me a softer pedal, that doesn’t mash to the floor on hard acceleration then I am in. I know there is a debate on which brand is best, Tilton, Monster, Ram, McLeod… maybe easier to ask which brand to avoid?

[Eastbaycamaro]

The other thing I notice with my rxt is that there is some rattling noise about 1600 rpm. I read that the rxt maybe a bit noisy. I will find out if it’s the clutch that’s noisy after I change it out. Other then that the pedal pressure is fine. Are you doing the work yourself?

[Valkyrie14]

Originally Posted by Eastbaycamaro

The other thing I notice with my rxt is that there is some rattling noise about 1600 rpm. I read that the rxt maybe a bit noisy. I will find out if it’s the clutch that’s noisy after I change it out. Other then that the pedal pressure is fine. Are you doing the work yourself?

Going to try. I haven’t done a clutch before but I looked at some threads on here, it looks like something I can tackle. My only concern is if my Jack stands go high enough I can clear the bell housing on a transmission Jack from under the car.

[Eastbaycamaro]

It’s not to bad of a job. Might want to mark the position of the drive shaft to the trans and rear diff flange before you remove it. The trans gets very close to the tunnel on the passenger side upper corner. You may have to lower the front sub frame a bit for it to clear.
Good luck.

[demonspeed]

You could always r&r it this way