E2 Elite Catch Can Install Question

Strange Flavor · 03-02-2018, 06:52 PM

Installing E2 Dual port catch can / clean side cap with Rotofab intake and I'm trying not to drill any holes in the tube. It's the sound tube delete version so it doesn't have the sound tube tie in. Anyone see any issues with T'ing off the clean side separator hose (connected to the black box coming off the Intake tube) instead of "drilling as close as you can to the throttle body"? I'm not sure what the function of the black box is but looking at it this hose should pull a vacuum at WOT, correct? Thanks in advance.

MAGAUSA · 03-02-2018, 11:36 PM

Conceptually that sounds right, but I have the rotofab with STD and the E2 (single port). I don't recall the black box remaining after installing the RF.

Strange Flavor · 03-03-2018, 03:11 PM

The instructions tell you to take it off the old tube and put it on this one. The only issue I can come up with is if there is a check valve in the black box, I'll have to pull it off and check. Also shot Elite an email so I will see what they say.

MAGAUSA · 03-04-2018, 07:51 PM

If you have the stock intake, and take out the sound tube, then you may have an opening there (recalling it is on the top of the stock tube between the airbox and the TB) to mate the second elite hose. If you use the RF replacement tube, which may be required to fit, then you other things to consider. My understanding is Elite uses the second intake so that cc is working during throttle applications.

Ventmaster · 03-04-2018, 09:03 PM

I've got the E2 single port also. I'm thinking this is sufficient with Chevy's "clean side" stock catch can... and I caught a good bit of gunk with my E2 on the " dirty side" until I installed my GM CAI. Then there wasn't room next to the air intake.

Now I've installed a Borla 60606 and don't think I need the sound tube any more and might be able to create a good spot to re-install my E2 with the tube deleted.

Anyone have a good spot and suggestion for the proper bracket to re-install my E2?

Thanks in advance and pictures are always worth a thousand words!

MAGAUSA · 03-06-2018, 07:58 PM

Yes. Use the sound tube bracket that connects to the block along with the circular bracket that comes with the E-2. Provides plenty of room and front of the engine placement to easily dump the can using the ball valve. I'll try to find a link.

MAGAUSA · 03-06-2018, 08:05 PM

http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=495557

Scroll down for the picks. I used the L shaped black bracket along with the silver circle bracket that came with the E-2X, and mated this with the sound tube bracket, using one of the two bolts that go into the block. It hasn't moved in many months, no need to re tighten, works great. Only thing is to add heat shield tape ( I doubled up) for the coolant line that the can may sit against. You could slide the can lower, but it's then harder to reach to dump the can.

Strange Flavor · 03-07-2018, 08:22 AM

I heard back from Elite, here is the response:

The second outlet gets its suction from the Venturi Effect, that is the air flow past the barb so it creates the suction needed for evacuation when accelerating or at WOT.

So it sounds like I should probably Just drill the hole and place it there, Don't know if whatever suction is provided from the PCV Box will actual do anything.

On a Side note, I'm curious about what shoving a barb in the intake tube does for performance. If people spend money and time porting intakes and throtlebodies so that they are as smooth as possible, what kind of effect would this have? The answer is probably little to no effect but I'm curious.

blazzin1 · 12-25-2018, 07:22 PM

I know this a fairly old thread, but I have the same question.... I got an Elite E2 dual outlet catch can AND a Roto-Fab Sound Tube Delete for Christmas. I already installed the Roto-Fab. I know where to connect the primary inlet/outlet on the catch can (by removing the small U-shaped hose at the “neck” of the intake manifold. But are there any other good options for the secondary outlet connection? I really don’t want to drill a big-ass hole in my brand new Roto-Fab tube!!! There’s gotta be a lot of people out there with this set-up, what are my options? Thanks in advance....

JCunningham · 12-26-2018, 01:01 AM

it has to be as close to the throttle body as possible. drilling is the only way to make it work.

blazzin1 · 12-26-2018, 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JCunningham

it has to be as close to the throttle body as possible. drilling is the only way to make it work.

Dang, that sucks!!! Oh well, thanks for letting me know.

TMS · 12-26-2018, 09:49 AM

You don’t have to drill a hole for the second port you can tee off the single RotoFab port that goes to the clean side.
Part# T4-6BN

Also a quick video to help.

https://youtu.be/aRp3tymOXzo

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

blazzin1 · 12-26-2018, 09:52 AM

Hmmm...very interesting! Thanks for the info TMS!

TMS · 12-26-2018, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blazzin1

Hmmm...very interesting! Thanks for the info TMS!

Your welcome. If you decide to go the route of the Tee then PM me with your address, and I’ll drop one in the mail for you. I have extras.

03-02-2018, 06:52 PM	#1
Strange Flavor Drives: 17 Fifty SS, 11 2SS, 91 LSX C1500 Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Louisiana Posts: 193 View My Garage	E2 Elite Catch Can Install Question Installing E2 Dual port catch can / clean side cap with Rotofab intake and I'm trying not to drill any holes in the tube. It's the sound tube delete version so it doesn't have the sound tube tie in. Anyone see any issues with T'ing off the clean side separator hose (connected to the black box coming off the Intake tube) instead of "drilling as close as you can to the throttle body"? I'm not sure what the function of the black box is but looking at it this hose should pull a vacuum at WOT, correct? Thanks in advance. Last edited by Strange Flavor; 03-02-2018 at 09:46 PM.

12-26-2018, 01:01 AM	#10
JCunningham Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: WNY Posts: 7,070	it has to be as close to the throttle body as possible. drilling is the only way to make it work. __________________ real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1

12-26-2018, 09:49 AM	#12
TMS Drives: 2018 ZL1 1LE - HBM, PDR Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Rescue, CA Posts: 324	You don’t have to drill a hole for the second port you can tee off the single RotoFab port that goes to the clean side. Part# T4-6BN Also a quick video to help. https://youtu.be/aRp3tymOXzo Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________ JRE Tuned (HPTuners) \| 15% OD (9.17" crank pulley) \| TVS2300 Maggie Heartbeat Supercharger - 14 psi \| E-50 (DSX Flex Fuel kit) \| JMS FuelMax Fuel Pump Booster \| LPE Big Bore High Volume DI fuel pump \| LPE High Flow DI fuel injectors \| LT5 95mm TB \| RotoFab CAI \| AEM X-Series OBD2 wide band gauge \| Elite Engineering E2-X catch can \| Borla S-type NPP Cat-Back 3" exhaust \| Forgeline GTD1 5-lug Satin Graphite \| SunTek wrap \| C-Quartz Finest Reserve ceramic coated

03-02-2018, 11:36 PM	#2
MAGAUSA Drives: 2017 Hyper Blue 1LE Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Tampa Posts: 579	Conceptually that sounds right, but I have the rotofab with STD and the E2 (single port). I don't recall the black box remaining after installing the RF.

03-03-2018, 03:11 PM	#3
Strange Flavor Drives: 17 Fifty SS, 11 2SS, 91 LSX C1500 Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Louisiana Posts: 193 View My Garage	The instructions tell you to take it off the old tube and put it on this one. The only issue I can come up with is if there is a check valve in the black box, I'll have to pull it off and check. Also shot Elite an email so I will see what they say.

03-04-2018, 07:51 PM	#4
MAGAUSA Drives: 2017 Hyper Blue 1LE Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Tampa Posts: 579	If you have the stock intake, and take out the sound tube, then you may have an opening there (recalling it is on the top of the stock tube between the airbox and the TB) to mate the second elite hose. If you use the RF replacement tube, which may be required to fit, then you other things to consider. My understanding is Elite uses the second intake so that cc is working during throttle applications.

03-04-2018, 09:03 PM	#5
Ventmaster Drives: 2017 1SS 6spd Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Utah Posts: 2,869	I've got the E2 single port also. I'm thinking this is sufficient with Chevy's "clean side" stock catch can... and I caught a good bit of gunk with my E2 on the " dirty side" until I installed my GM CAI. Then there wasn't room next to the air intake. Now I've installed a Borla 60606 and don't think I need the sound tube any more and might be able to create a good spot to re-install my E2 with the tube deleted. Anyone have a good spot and suggestion for the proper bracket to re-install my E2? Thanks in advance and pictures are always worth a thousand words!

03-06-2018, 07:58 PM	#6
MAGAUSA Drives: 2017 Hyper Blue 1LE Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Tampa Posts: 579	Yes. Use the sound tube bracket that connects to the block along with the circular bracket that comes with the E-2. Provides plenty of room and front of the engine placement to easily dump the can using the ball valve. I'll try to find a link.

03-06-2018, 08:05 PM	#7
MAGAUSA Drives: 2017 Hyper Blue 1LE Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Tampa Posts: 579	http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=495557 Scroll down for the picks. I used the L shaped black bracket along with the silver circle bracket that came with the E-2X, and mated this with the sound tube bracket, using one of the two bolts that go into the block. It hasn't moved in many months, no need to re tighten, works great. Only thing is to add heat shield tape ( I doubled up) for the coolant line that the can may sit against. You could slide the can lower, but it's then harder to reach to dump the can.

03-07-2018, 08:22 AM	#8
Strange Flavor Drives: 17 Fifty SS, 11 2SS, 91 LSX C1500 Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Louisiana Posts: 193 View My Garage	I heard back from Elite, here is the response: The second outlet gets its suction from the Venturi Effect, that is the air flow past the barb so it creates the suction needed for evacuation when accelerating or at WOT. So it sounds like I should probably Just drill the hole and place it there, Don't know if whatever suction is provided from the PCV Box will actual do anything. On a Side note, I'm curious about what shoving a barb in the intake tube does for performance. If people spend money and time porting intakes and throtlebodies so that they are as smooth as possible, what kind of effect would this have? The answer is probably little to no effect but I'm curious.

12-25-2018, 07:22 PM	#9
blazzin1 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS R6P Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: St. Cloud, FL Posts: 4,845 View My Garage	I know this a fairly old thread, but I have the same question.... I got an Elite E2 dual outlet catch can AND a Roto-Fab Sound Tube Delete for Christmas. I already installed the Roto-Fab. I know where to connect the primary inlet/outlet on the catch can (by removing the small U-shaped hose at the “neck” of the intake manifold. But are there any other good options for the secondary outlet connection? I really don’t want to drill a big-ass hole in my brand new Roto-Fab tube!!! There’s gotta be a lot of people out there with this set-up, what are my options? Thanks in advance....

12-26-2018, 09:52 AM	#13
blazzin1 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS R6P Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: St. Cloud, FL Posts: 4,845 View My Garage	Hmmm...very interesting! Thanks for the info TMS!

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