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Old 07-08-2021, 03:16 PM   #99
gtstorey

 
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS2,L99, LSA SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Astatenate View Post
Attachment 1072589

This is my quote. I wanna maybe upgrade the rods to K1 as well. Anything else I should upgrade ?

For reference. The LSA block they sell comes with the following :

GM LSA crankshaft 8 bolt factory forged
K1 H-beam connecting rods and ARP 8740 rod bolts
Diamond or Wiseco forged pistons with steel rings
High speed balance crankshaft
King racing narrowed rod bearings
King racing chamfered main bearings
GMPP cam bearing set
Thompson Motorsports 1 year unlimited mileage warranty with the purchase of a new melling HP oil pump
So which way did you end up going?
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Old 07-09-2021, 12:13 AM   #100
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So final revision of the quote includes:

LSA/LS3 376 CI forged block w/ oil squirters blocked off -

• Diamond pistons w/ steel rings (engine shop is shooting for 10:1 to 10.5:1 ratio)
• K1 H-Beam Forged Rods w/ ARP 2000 rod bolts
• King Main & Rod bearings
• LSA OEM crankshaft
• Melling 10296 HP/HV oil pump (shop did recommend using VR1 20w50)
• ARP main stud upgrade


Rated for 1100hp - right around 7k out the door. And then I’ll add GPI SS3 cam. All timing components and Trunion upgrade. For about $1100 more. So $8100 total back together. Everything look good? Anything else I should add or look into getting?
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Old 07-09-2021, 08:28 AM   #101
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I've never heard anything but good things about Thompson so if that is the way they steered you, I would follow their lead.

When you say the "shop" recommended 20w50, is that Thompson or someone else? I would get whatever Thompson recommends since their warranty probably depends on it.
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Old 07-09-2021, 11:01 AM   #102
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Originally Posted by gtstorey View Post
I've never heard anything but good things about Thompson so if that is the way they steered you, I would follow their lead.

When you say the "shop" recommended 20w50, is that Thompson or someone else? I would get whatever Thompson recommends since their warranty probably depends on it.
Yeah sorry. Thompson is who’s building the motor for me. And they recommended 20w50 VR1
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Old 07-10-2021, 03:15 PM   #103
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I guess my last question is, should I keep stock compression ratio (9.1:1) or stick with engine shop recommendations of (10-10.5:1 ratio) ?

I was under the impression lower CR is best for boost. The car makes about 16lbs of boost and I run e85. What ratio should I shoot for?
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Old 07-10-2021, 10:33 PM   #104
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my 416 is 10:1 im really happy with the numbers it makes.. also happy with how it sounds..
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Old 07-11-2021, 07:01 PM   #105
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I have a question. Why would the piston oil squirters be blocked off? To me I would think not to do that? Please educate me on this.
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Old 07-11-2021, 08:43 PM   #106
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I have a question. Why would the piston oil squirters be blocked off? To me I would think not to do that? Please educate me on this.
i'd say in most applications it adds hp .. also not really needed which im sure could be debated both ways to death . got rid of mine... also if u use a longer stroke crank it will hit the squirters.. they have shorter ones u can replace with but kind of a personal preference as well
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Old 07-13-2021, 03:00 PM   #107
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Originally Posted by xdamxincx View Post
my 416 is 10:1 im really happy with the numbers it makes.. also happy with how it sounds..
Great to hear! Thanks! I told them I’d like to stick with 10:1 . And hoping for 800 ish or close to it. My current setup (no cam) netted me 703 wheel. I’d be happy with 780-800 when all said & done!

Quote:
Originally Posted by xdamxincx View Post
i'd say in most applications it adds hp .. also not really needed which im sure could be debated both ways to death . got rid of mine... also if u use a longer stroke crank it will hit the squirters.. they have shorter ones u can replace with but kind of a personal preference as well
He explains it very well ^ it can be debated to death both ways. Why you need or don’t need them. To me oil squirters don’t do enough to justify using up valuable oil pressure needed in these engines.
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Old 07-13-2021, 03:29 PM   #108
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So is this an LS3 block or LSA block that you are going with?
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Old 07-13-2021, 05:18 PM   #109
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Originally Posted by gtstorey View Post
So is this an LS3 block or LSA block that you are going with?
I was told straight from multiple engine shops. There is no difference in the LS3/LSA block itself. Except the oil squirters. They’re not any stronger. Only the rotating assembly is different/stronger from the factory. The LSA block is now discontinued. So instead of sourcing a LSA for $1200-2000 more than a LS3 and plugging the oil squirters. It’ll be a LS3 with a fully forged rotating assembly. Good to 1100 whp with all options I’ve selected (ARP main studs, forged pistons, rods, crank. Etc. )
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Old 07-14-2021, 07:40 AM   #110
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Yeah, the difference between the LSA and LS3 blocks have always seemed a unclear. The "blocks" were reported as 20% stronger, but usually the description would talk about the differences in the rotating bottom end.
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Old 07-15-2021, 08:24 AM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtstorey View Post
Yeah, the difference between the LSA and LS3 blocks have always seemed a unclear. The "blocks" were reported as 20% stronger, but usually the description would talk about the differences in the rotating bottom end.
The LSA block has different webbing in some areas, and a thicker deck. It is a stronger block, but at power levels under 1k RWHP it likely wont matter.

The shared issue of these being 4-bolt instead of 6-bolt is the limiting factor here, IMO.
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Old 07-15-2021, 09:19 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Astatenate View Post
So final revision of the quote includes:

LSA/LS3 376 CI forged block w/ oil squirters blocked off -

• Diamond pistons w/ steel rings (engine shop is shooting for 10:1 to 10.5:1 ratio)
• K1 H-Beam Forged Rods w/ ARP 2000 rod bolts
• King Main & Rod bearings
• LSA OEM crankshaft
• Melling 10296 HP/HV oil pump (shop did recommend using VR1 20w50)
• ARP main stud upgrade


Rated for 1100hp - right around 7k out the door. And then I’ll add GPI SS3 cam. All timing components and Trunion upgrade. For about $1100 more. So $8100 total back together. Everything look good? Anything else I should add or look into getting?
Look into upgrading the lifters. One of the weird aspects of these LS motors is their use of plastic lifter retainers. Since you're this far in you might as well upgrade to a set of linked bar lifters. You'll never have to worry about a lifter spinning on you. Just my ¢2
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