Whipple removal for New Injectors - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

hesster · 08-09-2023, 08:14 AM

I am about to replace my injectors that came with my Whipple kit back in 2016, and don't want to run into any significant issues, or break parts. I would appreciate input and tips on the process, and have a few specific questions. I have the Whipple instructions, and will reverse the installation process to remove the blower.

1. How bad is the clearance of the cowl to the Blower Hat? Any tricks to removing or reinstalling to clear the Cowl? Instructions say to "131. Once S/C assembly is down slide back until bypass is against front of lower manifold (Note if S/C wont slide back all the way you may need to lift rear up slightly while you slide it back to get it over the rear fuel rail bolts." It does seem to be able to be raised up, but only slightly.

2. Any access issues getting at the Blower Hat's M6 bolts to torque them, and using a 5mm ball Allen Wrench? Will that allow access to all 10 bolts? Or use a offset ratchet wrench and In/Lb torque wrench? "135. Install 10 M6 x20mm bolts (D) bolts (see bolt diagram page 49) Installing the attaching bolt that is under the gear case housing is installed with mechanical fingers. Tighten with a 5mm ball allen. Torque to 106 inch pounds. Torque all perimeter bolts to 106 inch pounds."

3. I will also be installing a new Coolant Reservoir, so I have to drain some or all of the coolant, and remove the hoses off the back of the Blower Hat. How to purge and fill properly? Will the pump self prime? I see some inexpensive tools on Amazon, and some NOT SO expensive tools. Or will it burp itself?

Thanks for any input.

BigMatt · 08-09-2023, 08:24 PM

I would be careful with that intake, it will want to suck shut with that big of a piece of silicone for an elbow. Also your maf should be horizontal in the intake tube.
As for removing and reinstalling the whipple it's not that bad of a job, usually takes me about 45 mins to get off by myself. It just slides under the firewall cowl, sometimes I need to gently pry it up a tiny bit. the only bolt you wont be able to get to with a torque wrench is the one on the passenger side that's under the rear of the jackshaft. A ball tip allen head is the only way I've gotten that one and just use a good guestimation of torque.

No need for expensive tools for purging the coolant tank. Just unbolt it and hold it up as high as it will go with the pump running, air rises to the top.

hesster · 08-10-2023, 07:20 AM

Thanks for that.
Actually, the Air Tube is a Whipple Piece, I just insulated it to improve thermal reduction into the ceramic section. And did a better job of sealing off and adding insulation to the CAI and extension air duct. Things get hot in there. The MAF is fine, as the orientation is correct for air flow, it must go length wise across it, and has a directional arrow on it.

I was able to get the Blower Hat off yesterday, and it sure took longer than you indicate, probably because of my big hands and first time doing it. Yep, the fastener in the Passenger Rear is a bitch. I had broke the damn nipple off the 1 BAR MAP previously trying to remove it, so I did not feel so bad knowing I had to remove the Blower anyway to replace the injectors. Then it is right there and push's out effortlessly.

Tips I used to make it easier after working my way through the ordeal:

1. Have a assortment of 5 mm Allen wrench's and sockets. I probably did not have the best bits and wrench's for the task, as I went at it with what I had to learn. I am going to buy some low profile bits and a mini "Bike" torque wrench to make securing the fasteners easier.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...1XAYKTTWV&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BH572S7Z...t_details&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0865W7G9L...t_details&th=1

2. I found the more disassembly, the easier it is. Like to get at that bastard Passenger Side Rear fastener, I unbolted the Coil Pack on that side, pulled it out of the way, and removed the fuel line quick connector on rear of that Fuel Rail. Then it has wide open access. Of course, remove the front and rear Fuel Rail Interconnect hoses, and mop up the gas, and the Jackshaft cover. Access to the passenger side fasteners under the jack shaft with my ball end Allen Wrench's did not seem to help.

3. There are a total of a minimum (16) Blower Hat fasteners that must be removed before it will come off. (8) on each Side, (2) each front and back, and (4) on the Bypass Mount. The (2) longer screws on the Bottom of the Bypass were difficult, and probably easier if the Idler/tensioner bracket or the Bypass Bracket mounting was removed, but I wanted to avoid that. Best to pull off the Bypass Bracket per the Installation instructions.

4. Once all of the fasteners are out, the Blower separates easily, and you just pick it up in the front, slide it forward, and pick the rear up slightly. You can slide it forward enough and keep the Coolant lines attached depending on how they were routed. In my case, I do not have to remove them, and better yet, the fuel rail and injectors are accessible for removal with the Blower Hat pulled forward. That was a relief, as I don't have to mess with draining and refilling the system, or pulling the Blower Hat completely off to get at the injectors.

5. My experience is assembly is usually more challenging, particularly getting the fasteners back in and having access to torque them. Dropping them and tool bits is a PIA, sometimes they go into a abyss and can't be found. Have a Magnetic pickup extension, mirrors, and mechanical fingers at hand. At some point, experience in "how tight is tight" and a feel for torque may help here. 106" lbs is not much torque, enough to seal the "O" ring. I hope the tools ordered will help.

So, my plan is to install ID1050x Injectors, a ZL1 Fuel Pump with my MSD BAP, go to a 3.75" Pully, a 3 Bar MAP, reworked IAT, and a Custom tune from a well known Pro. The Whipple Kit is great until you add a Blower Cam, then it is on the hairy edge of fuel starvation at Boost.

08-09-2023, 08:14 AM	#1
hesster Drives: '10 C5 SS, '77 Bandit T/A Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Michigan Posts: 638 View My Garage	Whipple removal for New Injectors I am about to replace my injectors that came with my Whipple kit back in 2016, and don't want to run into any significant issues, or break parts. I would appreciate input and tips on the process, and have a few specific questions. I have the Whipple instructions, and will reverse the installation process to remove the blower. 1. How bad is the clearance of the cowl to the Blower Hat? Any tricks to removing or reinstalling to clear the Cowl? Instructions say to "131. Once S/C assembly is down slide back until bypass is against front of lower manifold (Note if S/C wont slide back all the way you may need to lift rear up slightly while you slide it back to get it over the rear fuel rail bolts." It does seem to be able to be raised up, but only slightly. 2. Any access issues getting at the Blower Hat's M6 bolts to torque them, and using a 5mm ball Allen Wrench? Will that allow access to all 10 bolts? Or use a offset ratchet wrench and In/Lb torque wrench? "135. Install 10 M6 x20mm bolts (D) bolts (see bolt diagram page 49) Installing the attaching bolt that is under the gear case housing is installed with mechanical fingers. Tighten with a 5mm ball allen. Torque to 106 inch pounds. Torque all perimeter bolts to 106 inch pounds." 3. I will also be installing a new Coolant Reservoir, so I have to drain some or all of the coolant, and remove the hoses off the back of the Blower Hat. How to purge and fill properly? Will the pump self prime? I see some inexpensive tools on Amazon, and some NOT SO expensive tools. Or will it burp itself? Thanks for any input. Attached Images

08-09-2023, 08:24 PM	#2
BigMatt 2010 Camaro 2 SS/RS M6 Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS Join Date: May 2009 Location: Clayton Delaware Posts: 1,218 View My Garage	I would be careful with that intake, it will want to suck shut with that big of a piece of silicone for an elbow. Also your maf should be horizontal in the intake tube. As for removing and reinstalling the whipple it's not that bad of a job, usually takes me about 45 mins to get off by myself. It just slides under the firewall cowl, sometimes I need to gently pry it up a tiny bit. the only bolt you wont be able to get to with a torque wrench is the one on the passenger side that's under the rear of the jackshaft. A ball tip allen head is the only way I've gotten that one and just use a good guestimation of torque. No need for expensive tools for purging the coolant tank. Just unbolt it and hold it up as high as it will go with the pump running, air rises to the top. __________________ Forged LS3, FED M311 heads, CAI Inc, ARH 1 7/8, Corsa Xtreme, Taylor Wires, MGW Shifter, Street slayer twin carbon clutch, Tick braided clutch line & speed bleeder, ZL1 Diff Swap, BMR Split drop, Sway Bars, Trailing Arms, Toe Rods, Pro bushing kit, Carslyle racing 15in conversion, Whipple, LPE dual fuel pumps, Rx catch can, Id1300x, Alky Control

08-10-2023, 07:20 AM	#3
hesster Drives: '10 C5 SS, '77 Bandit T/A Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Michigan Posts: 638 View My Garage	Thanks for that. Actually, the Air Tube is a Whipple Piece, I just insulated it to improve thermal reduction into the ceramic section. And did a better job of sealing off and adding insulation to the CAI and extension air duct. Things get hot in there. The MAF is fine, as the orientation is correct for air flow, it must go length wise across it, and has a directional arrow on it. I was able to get the Blower Hat off yesterday, and it sure took longer than you indicate, probably because of my big hands and first time doing it. Yep, the fastener in the Passenger Rear is a bitch. I had broke the damn nipple off the 1 BAR MAP previously trying to remove it, so I did not feel so bad knowing I had to remove the Blower anyway to replace the injectors. Then it is right there and push's out effortlessly. Tips I used to make it easier after working my way through the ordeal: 1. Have a assortment of 5 mm Allen wrench's and sockets. I probably did not have the best bits and wrench's for the task, as I went at it with what I had to learn. I am going to buy some low profile bits and a mini "Bike" torque wrench to make securing the fasteners easier. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...1XAYKTTWV&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BH572S7Z...t_details&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0865W7G9L...t_details&th=1 2. I found the more disassembly, the easier it is. Like to get at that bastard Passenger Side Rear fastener, I unbolted the Coil Pack on that side, pulled it out of the way, and removed the fuel line quick connector on rear of that Fuel Rail. Then it has wide open access. Of course, remove the front and rear Fuel Rail Interconnect hoses, and mop up the gas, and the Jackshaft cover. Access to the passenger side fasteners under the jack shaft with my ball end Allen Wrench's did not seem to help. 3. There are a total of a minimum (16) Blower Hat fasteners that must be removed before it will come off. (8) on each Side, (2) each front and back, and (4) on the Bypass Mount. The (2) longer screws on the Bottom of the Bypass were difficult, and probably easier if the Idler/tensioner bracket or the Bypass Bracket mounting was removed, but I wanted to avoid that. Best to pull off the Bypass Bracket per the Installation instructions. 4. Once all of the fasteners are out, the Blower separates easily, and you just pick it up in the front, slide it forward, and pick the rear up slightly. You can slide it forward enough and keep the Coolant lines attached depending on how they were routed. In my case, I do not have to remove them, and better yet, the fuel rail and injectors are accessible for removal with the Blower Hat pulled forward. That was a relief, as I don't have to mess with draining and refilling the system, or pulling the Blower Hat completely off to get at the injectors. 5. My experience is assembly is usually more challenging, particularly getting the fasteners back in and having access to torque them. Dropping them and tool bits is a PIA, sometimes they go into a abyss and can't be found. Have a Magnetic pickup extension, mirrors, and mechanical fingers at hand. At some point, experience in "how tight is tight" and a feel for torque may help here. 106" lbs is not much torque, enough to seal the "O" ring. I hope the tools ordered will help. So, my plan is to install ID1050x Injectors, a ZL1 Fuel Pump with my MSD BAP, go to a 3.75" Pully, a 3 Bar MAP, reworked IAT, and a Custom tune from a well known Pro. The Whipple Kit is great until you add a Blower Cam, then it is on the hairy edge of fuel starvation at Boost.