RPM Rollbar Install tips?

[thahemp]

Originally Posted by TornadoSS

I read a magazine article last night that had an install of this bar in the 5th gen and it said to expect to take about 20 hrs to install!!! :eek:

It said that the bar cannot go in without removing the center console completely and nearly gutting the interior entirely! I knew the seats had to come out. I didn't see this console part mentioned in the RPM install instructions. Ugh. I'm hoping it will go smoother and faster than this.

Any more tips to add? Thanks!

You could remove everything but the driver's seat and center console ahead of time. That's what Patrick's car looks like right now. That should cut a lot of time out of the actual installation.

[TornadoSS]

Originally Posted by thahemp

You could remove everything but the driver's seat and center console ahead of time. That's what Patrick's car looks like right now. That should cut a lot of time out of the actual installation.

Yeah, I plan on at least doing that. I may pull it all out this weekend.

[thahemp]

Even with gutting the interior completely... I can't imagine it takes that long. It's not that hard to gut the interior. The instructions from RPM don't look that complicated either. It's hard to imagine where all their time came from? Maybe they started in the evening and included a night's worth of sleep? Maybe they're Ford guys .

[Jpb972]

I don't see the reason for pulling the center console...
My cage due to arrive the 30th.

[TornadoSS]

Originally Posted by thahemp

Even with gutting the interior completely... I can't imagine it takes that long. It's not that hard to gut the interior. The instructions from RPM don't look that complicated either. It's hard to imagine where all their time came from? Maybe they started in the evening and included a night's worth of sleep? Maybe they're Ford guys .

I hear ya, it just startled me when I read how long they said it would take in the article lol! I'm thinking a really long day at the most. Drill 24 holes.

[TornadoSS]

Originally Posted by Jpb972

I don't see the reason for pulling the center console...
My cage due to arrive the 30th.

Mine should arrive around that same time frame.

[Ject]

You still have an interior? Wish I knew what that was like... lol

I could see a good amount of time measuring and lining up the swing out arms and foot plates but the main piece shouldn't take long at all. Center, double check, drill, tighten bolts. Ive yet to figure out wtf the whole saw is to be used for that they list as tools needed lol

[thahemp]

Cutting carpet? Only thing I can imagine.

[LS7 427]

I installed mine and I don't think 20 hours is out of line. It's not as easy as it looks. Besides taking out the seats, door sill moldings, rear side panels and seat belts you also need to take off the back wheels and remove the plastic wheel well liner in order to bolt in the back posts. The side panels take some time as you have to be very careful when you cut them and they are a bitch to get back in after with the rollbar in place as you have very little clearance on either side. When you drill the front post behind the passenger seat, mind you don't hit the fuel line on the underside of the car. After you drill all the holes you'll need to line up and mark the hole locations for all the backing plates and drill them as well before you bolt them in.

It's a lot of work for sure, but its a good piece once its in. Good luck with the install.

Bryan

[LS7 427]

Originally Posted by Ject

I could see a good amount of time measuring and lining up the swing out arms and foot plates but the main piece shouldn't take long at all. Center, double check, drill, tighten bolts. Ive yet to figure out wtf the whole saw is to be used for that they list as tools needed lol

Your right about the swing arm and footplate, they do take some time.

The hole saw is for drilling the initial hole in the side panels where the post going to the rear goes through.
.
.


Bryan

[thahemp]

Good info Bryan. Thanks.

[SSE 4 2SS]

Originally Posted by TornadoSS

I read a magazine article last night that had an install of this bar in the 5th gen and it said to expect to take about 20 hrs to install!!! :eek:

It said that the bar cannot go in without removing the center console completely and nearly gutting the interior entirely! I knew the seats had to come out. I didn't see this console part mentioned in the RPM install instructions. Ugh. I'm hoping it will go smoother and faster than this.

Any more tips to add? Thanks!

I'll fire up my computer and post a few pics... I did pull the back and sides of the center console...

I pulled the rear seats, and removed the rear seat belts as no one is allowed to ride back there any more... Then pulled the door sill molding, the rear seat plastic side pieces, and the front seats. There is a pretty substantial piece of foam inside the plastic side trim pieces... I broke them off and threw them away... It was virtually impossible to get them back in... After carefully marking the side panels, cut them as directed... Check several times before making any cuts... I'll tell you point blank, these are a mofo to get back in... The go between the main hoop and the car side... Have fun... No other recommendations here, other than they are relatively cheap if you tear one up... You will also have to trim these plastic pieces just a bit when you go back in with them where the foot holds the carpet up just a little bit... I used a tiny reciprocal air saw to do this.

It would be a bit easier if the passenger door is removed, but not enough so to make it worthwhile IMO....

Roll the carpet in both rear corners up and use a tie wrap to pull them together in the center near the back of the console.

The main bar has to be turned forward, inserted carefully into the car and then rotated back into place... Have at least two people to help with this step... Check the fit and clearances (make sure its centered) and remove it if necessary... I had to remove some of the sound / vibration stuff they squirt out at various spots.. This sucks as the stuff is really tough... . I then drilled or marked all the spots for the main frame... I pulled it back out and finished drilling the other holes...

Here is a point to remember... On the main hoop the bolts can go through from the inside... On the feet that go back to the wheel wells, put them in from the outside... It allows for the inner fender to fit back in. If you run these bolts through from the inside, they will strike the inner fender and eventually poke through...

After all the holes are drilled, have someone get under the car and mark the backer plates... Then drill them... If they didn't come with the kit, use pretty good sized flat washers inside and out, and a lock washer...

As was mentioned above... Before drilling anything, locate and note the location of the fuel lines... They pass right where one of the feet mounts... Spray some primer from a rattle can into a paint can cap and use a small brush the dab it on the areas drilled out. I used a bit of silicone caulk as well...

Place the main bar back in the car and rotate it in to position. Put all of the bolts in prior to tightening any of them.. This allows for slight shifts if needed.

After all the feet are bolted in, grab a door bar and insert it into the upper shoe. Leave about a quarter inch gap here... Mark the bar and drill it for a tight fit for the pin. Be careful to drill it through the center line... Remove the kick panel and pull the carpet up on the effected side and tuck it towards the gas pedal. Insert the door bar back into the upper shoe and pin it in place... Get the lower shoe and slide it into place and allow for a bit of swing radius in the lower shoe... Do not have the lower end of the bar fitted firmly into the shoe and mark it... I used a small piece of cloth rolled up to space it out from the inner face of the pivot point. About 3/16 of an inch... Then marked the area for drilling. If you hold it firm against the inner wall, the bar will not pivot very well if at all... Once this is done, insert the pivot bolt and lay the shoe on the floor. Mark the holes and then remove the shoe. Drill the holes after first certifying anything under the floor board that could be hit by the drill bit... Fuel lines etc... Mark the backer plates and drill them out... Bolt the shoe in, loosely, insert the pivot bolt, and then tighten everything on this side. Repeat these steps on the other side if you have both door bars...

Lay the carpet back as well as you can then determine where to start cutting... Cut from the outside of the car inward... This way most of the cut is hidden by trim panels... Cut out the circle of the bar and lay the carpet in then reinstall the trim pieces... The kick panels will also need to be trimmed at the bottom where the shoe holds the carpet up...to allow for a good fit... Put the rear seats back in. Then the fronts, and enjoy...

Pics on the way...

[SSE 4 2SS]

Here are some pics I have available.... The last pic has a friend of mine that helped quite a bit on the install... Mike... Thanks Brother...

[SSE 4 2SS]

We have since gone in and added to the cage. We added big X bars going from the top to the lower back from both sides.

This is due to the requirements for the land speed racing I'm involved in. Next we will be adding in the halo and the down bars to make it a true ten point cage... and then some.... These X bars we added take the place of the little down bars to the center driveshaft hump... I have a 4 inch one piece shaft and there is no clearance for even the bolt heads, so we did the big X frame...

I'll add those pics in when I get on my laptop in the next day or two, It's only an alternative but we had to use it...