ANYONE WITH TRACTION CONTOL/TUNE KNOWLEDGE?

[Sxren_Camaro'13]

Originally Posted by Spec

Get some wider tires, turn the nannies off. Problem solved.


Its how I beat a stock 6th gen SS...


His car was still spinning when I hit second lol...

oh ok

[Greenhornet2]

Originally Posted by sickspeedSS

I am surprised too from what I’ve read, I should have enough to keep it under control. I am planning on goin to a one piece driveshaft and will definitely look into the cradle and differential bushings. I feel like the rear suspension is relatively soft just from how it rocks back under throttle. Haven’t spent much time in a independent rear suspension so I couldn’t really get a feel for what might be rigid or not versus a straight axle car. I will have to throw a few clicks of compression in it to see if it settles it down any.

For drifting I think you want it pretty stiff and low. Not that I am a drifter. but if the suspension is soft on compression when it hooks it will allow that tire to be sent upwards easier, then break traction when the weight comes off, tire back down, grip, repeat. Higher tire pressures might help a little too not sure what you are running at. Harder compounds you will also want for longevity, that will also reduce the traction and in turn reduce possibility for wheel hop.

[sickspeedSS]

Originally Posted by Greenhornet2

For drifting I think you want it pretty stiff and low. Not that I am a drifter. but if the suspension is soft on compression when it hooks it will allow that tire to be sent upwards easier, then break traction when the weight comes off, tire back down, grip, repeat. Higher tire pressures might help a little too not sure what you are running at. Harder compounds you will also want for longevity, that will also reduce the traction and in turn reduce possibility for wheel hop.

Yeah I think I’ve got a combination of things going on right now I need to address. I’m running a Goodyear F1 tire at usually around 30psi. They are pretty aggressive on the tread pattern and probably offering to much traction. I’m gonna have to throw some different compounds on another set of wheels and see what I can come up with. I’ve been talkin to a guy from Texas that drifts a 5th gen. I’m just about the same on ride height but he’s running stiffer spring rates and custom valved shocks on the rear. I’ll be doing a little more studying to see if I can find a balance with the parts and shocks I have now.

[Greenhornet2]

First i would probably increase your pressure to 45. Just that might make a good difference. Lower pressure gives you a larger contact patch. Or start with shock settings Try one thing at a time though so you know what makes the difference. At first do a large adjustment, if it gets worse you know you went the wrong way. Just how i approach things and my opinion. Again i'm no pro

[RobZL1]

Originally Posted by sickspeedSS

Finally had a dry weekend to flash my car and go out for a test. The car is a COMPLETELY different animal. If you want to see exactly what your car has to offer, follow the steps detailed in this thread via tune profile. I am surprised how much was being held back from a power delivery standpoint which I find to be positive. Negatives are, I do have some serious wheel hop issues that were obviously what were causing the system to react before I disabled it. But from a obvious stance on disabling the traction control via tune, RobZl1 was spot on. This thing will blow the back tires off from 35 mph in 2nd gear just from stabbing the throttle. With that said, if you’re not experienced in dealing with an unleashed system and don’t wanna end up embarrassed on YouTube or 1320 wound up in a fence leaving your buddy’s house or a car show I would scroll on past this thread. However if you like to chase the rear end of a car and like ruining back tires in some parking lots in Mexico, this is the traction control setup you want.

Awesome! Glad it worked out for you! What rear end and axles are you running? If you already have all the deflection minimized, then your only real remaining options to tune out wheel hop are first axle diameters and then possibly tire compound, right?

[sickspeedSS]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

Awesome! Glad it worked out for you! What rear end and axles are you running? If you already have all the deflection minimized, then your only real remaining options to tune out wheel hop are first axle diameters and then possibly tire compound, right?

Thanks!! It definitely worked lol! Just gotta deal with the wheel hop situation. Rear differential case (3.91 gear set) and axles are stock. I have kept my eyes open for a ZL1 center section/axles. I think I will look at doing solid bushings and throw some harder compounds on my other wheels for now. It had a pretty aggressive auto cross setup on the car when I bought it. I had a 4 wheel alignment done which took all the crazy camber and toe angles out for the street. I never knew why it stumbled so hard going in to 2nd gear til now. Wheel HOP lol. I just want to find a better balance. This wheel hop thing caught me off guard compared to my experiences with the 4th gen cars.

[LuckySave]

Originally Posted by sickspeedSS

I have the max torque set at 8100 (is that correct?), TCS methods are all disabled. Can you explain a little more on how to max the in gear max torque? Is it under TORQUE LIMIT VS RPM/MAX TORQUE?? If so set them to what?? Go in and max each gear??

I'm still learning, and very much a noob, but I just read something in the HP Tuners help forum that cranking up the torque values will result in a drop of fuel pressure at the rail. Is this true? Is there a way to counter it if it does? I had noticed my fuel sending units voltage was regulated at 11.5V in the system tab, so I have bumped up the table to 14.6V across the board. Is any of that factual?

[George-CZ]