Oil Pressure at the Track

[Trawz]

Originally Posted by Coz3z3

Oh alright. I understand the viscosity for track use, hence me using 15w50. That all makes sense to me other than that sales rep telling you to use the Z rod lol. I use that in my classic vehicles with a SBC for sure. But haven't ever thought about it for my 1LE or even the Z/28. I'm looking forward to your new data from Blackstone and let us know how that oil responds to the track and daily use.

I was swapping to 10W40 for Summer (Track Season) and back to 5W30 for Winter, but I drive it so little in the winter that I felt swapping oil types was unnecessary.
As for the Z-rod, I suspected that it might not have been up to the task of track use, but I had no issues all last year with heat/oil pressure while running it.
Plus last year I did 8 track days, the most I have ever done in a season.

I'll post up the Blackstone results here when I get them.

Originally Posted by morepowerjoe

Just to be clear on everything oil is going to thin out the hotter you get it. I don't care what weight your using I think it's called thermal dynamics, I know there are a few engineers in here somewhere. Or maybe I'm just taking out my behind. But to me the only thing you can do is get your oil temps down and that's where the cooler comes in. And your coolant temp has to stay low enough as well. So if you want to say have your oil temp at 210* at 30 psi of idle pressure then you better make sure that your coolant temp isn't above that too. As soon as Improved Racing has thier Camaro specific cooler back in stock I will be going that route. The mishimoto cooler is only designed for daily driving imo. I will also tell you this if your still using your factory oil cooler then you coolant temp will rise with your oil temp. When I removed the factory oil cooler and installed the mishimoto cooler my coolant temp dropped about 10*.

Funny enough, I am an engineer.
And as most of us here understand (I hope) that as the oil gets over it's optimal temperature threshold, it will thin out and even start to prematurely degrade depending on additives, quality, and whatnot.
Which is why switching to a W40+ for hot summertime track use makes great sense.
The viscosity "should" increase and be more stable as it heats up.
Keeping oil pressure up during heavy usage at higher temps.

The problem I am having is I have not had any temperature issues for a couple years, but suddenly I am again.

Coolant temps were not getting much above 210* on track.

Currently have a Mishi rad and oil cooler on top of the stock oil cooler, plus a 169* thermostat. Have been running that setup for about 1.5 years. No problems with temps all last summer.

[morepowerjoe]

Lol, I knew somebody was an engineer in here. Yeah I didn't have any heat issues last summer before I went with this newly built engine with the SS3 cam and increased compression ratio. But one thing is my idle is like 175 rpm higher than when I had the SS2 cam so I think that has to with that as a cause for my increased heat at idle. I also moved from a stock converter to a 3600 so now I'm turning a lot more rpm during stop and go. As far as the viscosity I don't think it will hurt anything at all to run a little bit higher. As a matter of fact I was watching an episode of Engine Masters where they tested different viscosities and the higher viscosity oil made the most horsepower on their show. You should watch that episode if you get a chance it was very interesting.

[Joe.G]

I spoke with the owner Of Joe Gibbs racing, He stated that if it were his car and in the Summer he would without a doubt be running the 5W40 Oil, He stated it is the same as the LS30 oil but just a touch thicker. Neither oil meets the GM Dexos requirements but he stated their oil exceeds the requirements.

[Trawz]

UPDATE

Just got the report back from Blackstone Labs.
Everything looks good to them. No signs of excessive wear/metals.
They also mentioned the oil showed no signs of excessive heat either...

[morepowerjoe]

Well at least you haven't hurt the engine yet, so that's good. But I would definitely switch to the 40 stuff for sure. I just changed out the DT40 for the VR1 Racing 10w30 full synthetic. And with the DT40 I have around 40 psi at hot idle. So I got about 5 psi higher then with the driven 5w30. So it's definitely worth the switch. But I do think that you could possibly have a weak oil pump or the pressure relief valve in the pan is going screwy. I plugged mine a couple years ago and have not had any problems and I have vvt too. Another thing is I have a high volume pump (10355HV) and no I haven't run the pan dry either. I've done three autocross's and 4 drag runs with no problems. I know it would suck to try and check the pressure at the oil pressure sensor with a mechanical gauge when the engine is hot, but I feel like you need to do just that. I think I mentioned in another thread that the actual ecu temp in the hp tuners is a bit lower in the gauge cluster and the pressure is a bit higher also.

[ariZona28]

Well I guess that report is good news bad news. The good news is that the oil is doing its job and not breaking down and no signs of excessive metals or fluid contamination. Probably a good reason to NOT change your oil selection. The bad news is it didn't give you an indication of what your engines problem is. Sorry to say that if I were in your shoes I'm not sure what I would do.

[Trawz]

Originally Posted by ariZona28

Well I guess that report is good news bad news. The good news is that the oil is doing its job and not breaking down and no signs of excessive metals or fluid contamination. Probably a good reason to NOT change your oil selection. The bad news is it didn't give you an indication of what your engines problem is. Sorry to say that if I were in your shoes I'm not sure what I would do.

Exactly!
It's great to know nothing is hurt, but I don't know what is causing the pressure issues.
Oil pump slowly failing? Oil pressure sensor slowly failing? No clue!

[ariZona28]

Joe brought up a good idea. Get an accurate test gauge on the oil press port and confirm the pressure readings. Pray its a bad senor and not something internal.

[morepowerjoe]

Here is the one I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Trawz]

That is a good idea.
It's an alternative to just buying a new pressure sensor. I trust a mechanical gauge.
I was tempted to just toss a new sensor in and see. A OE sensor and oil sensor filter is less then $50 from Rock Auto.

I am assuming you plug the test gauge into where the oil pressure sensor goes? That would suck to do when the engine is hot...

[morepowerjoe]

Yes. You have to reach right behind the intake manifold and unplug the sensor and then unscrew it and thread the gauge plug in. Then all you have to do is plug in the quick disconnect. It can be done when hot with some gloves.

[ariZona28]

If you're really up for a project you could install a c5 corvette remote sensor kit. Install a tee fitting. Run the factory gauge AND an aftermarket gauge off of the tee. I like Autometer gauges myself. I wonder if you just unplug the factory gauge will you get low oil pressure warnings from the computer? Also, are you reading pressure from your console SS cluster or your DIC? Might want to check those against each other.

[morepowerjoe]

I think when I checked mine I only started it for a few seconds and don't remember a DTC or anything. Even if I did it went a way as soon as I started it with the pressure sensor back in. Yeah you only need it to start for a few seconds, enough time to check the gauge and shut it back off.

[Trawz]

Originally Posted by ariZona28

If you're really up for a project you could install a c5 corvette remote sensor kit. Install a tee fitting. Run the factory gauge AND an aftermarket gauge off of the tee. I like Autometer gauges myself. I wonder if you just unplug the factory gauge will you get low oil pressure warnings from the computer? Also, are you reading pressure from your console SS cluster or your DIC? Might want to check those against each other.

I was reading it off the SS cluster. I am curious to see if there is any difference between the factory cluster and a mechanical gauge.