P0336 on hot oil

[PlymouthBarracuda]

I'm constantly haunted by this problem. After good driving (when I sit on the throttle pedal) car dont start correctly. I have slow cranking and Servise Stabilitrack comes on without CEL. With scanner I can see P0336 error. I have already replaced crank sensor several moth ago but issue remains.
Maked heat shield for the starter (this one), replaced negative battery wire, maked additional negative wire for the starter but nothing helps.

Could it be rod bearings issue ? When I drive as usual everything is OK (even when oil temp rises up to 250F) , but when I sit on the throttle and drive in Competitive Mode, I have this problem..

[chevy pilot]

-Weak or bad battery can cause those symptoms.
-Poor grounding of the engine and chassis.

[1JEWLDSSRS]

Originally Posted by chevy pilot

-Weak or bad battery can cause those symptoms.
-Poor grounding of the engine and chassis.

^^ This. When the battery gets old and doesn't hold a good charge these cars run like crap and cause all sorts of issues, including not wanting to run right while "in the gas". Check your battery.

[morepowerjoe]

Originally Posted by 1JEWLDSSRS

^^ This. When the battery gets old and doesn't hold a good charge these cars run like crap and cause all sorts of issues, including not wanting to run right while "in the gas". Check your battery.

+2

[PlymouthBarracuda]

Originally Posted by 1JEWLDSSRS

^^ This. When the battery gets old and doesn't hold a good charge these cars run like crap and cause all sorts of issues, including not wanting to run right while "in the gas". Check your battery.

Thank you ! What specs has your battery ? I mean starting current for example)

Is there a relation between aggressive driving and subsequent poor starting and bad battery ?

[gtstorey]

I would continue to trouble shoot the DTC. If it's still popping it's still a problem. If it doesn't know the position of the crank shaft in relation to the cam, it's going to struggle to start.

[chevy pilot]

Originally Posted by PlymouthBarracuda

What specs has your battery ? I mean starting current for example)

Is there a relation between aggressive driving and subsequent poor starting ?

-Min 720 CCA (800-850 CCA optimum)

-Mayby heat ?

[1JEWLDSSRS]

Originally Posted by PlymouthBarracuda

Thank you ! What specs has your battery ? I mean starting current for example)

Is there a relation between aggressive driving and subsequent poor starting and bad battery ?

Mine is a 800 CCA battery. Aggressive driving will get the engine and all components pretty warm, and after shutting down, then trying to restart it you could have the "heat soak" issue with the starter due to the bad grounding these cars have. That's why a lot of us have added additional ground cables to our cars, to stop the "hard start" issues when the starter is hot.

[PlymouthBarracuda]

Originally Posted by gtstorey

I would continue to trouble shoot the DTC. If it's still popping it's still a problem. If it doesn't know the position of the crank shaft in relation to the cam, it's going to struggle to start.

DTC is a consequence of the slow rotation of the crankshaft, I think so. Because there are no DTC problems with a cold and warm engine

[PlymouthBarracuda]

Originally Posted by 1JEWLDSSRS

Mine is a 800 CCA battery. Aggressive driving will get the engine and all components pretty warm, and after shutting down, then trying to restart it you could have the "heat soak" issue with the starter due to the bad grounding these cars have. That's why a lot of us have added additional ground cables to our cars, to stop the "hard start" issues when the starter is hot.

I also found 800 CCA battery and going to replace in. Thank you for suggestion

I made a heat shield for the starter. I have put a wire from the transmission case to the starter, sit the starter on the washer that connected to this additional wire. Also made a wire from engine valve cover to the shock strut mount bolt nearby. These all doesn't help.

How you did a ground in your car ?

----

Could bad battery be a reason of this new issue? engine runs roughly (or misfires) and stalls in the morning on cold. The second start always is good.

I have new fuel pump GM MU1959 maybe this is the cause ? But according to the scanner, short-term and long-term corrections are normal

[morepowerjoe]

Originally Posted by PlymouthBarracuda

I also found 800 CCA battery and going to replace in. Thank you for suggestion

I made a heat shield for the starter. I have put a wire from the transmission case to the starter, sit the starter on the washer that connected to this additional wire. Also made a wire from engine valve cover to the shock strut mount bolt nearby. These all doesn't help.

How you did a ground in your car ?

----

Could bad battery be a reason of this new issue? engine runs roughly (or misfires) and stalls in the morning on cold. The second start always is good.

I have new fuel pump GM MU1959 maybe this is the cause ? But according to the scanner, short-term and long-term corrections are normal

Ok, so you need two high amperage cables. One from the chassis (theres a unsed bolt on the passenger side chassis right across from the bell housing) to the transmission bellhousing, and one from the battery terminal to the same place the original ground is connected to the body. There's someone on here that has the cables for sale but don't remember who.

[1JEWLDSSRS]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=pbSCICsau0M



the bald eagle machine is the guy offering the cables.

[RickyC]

Go to your local welding supply store. They will make you cables. Had 2 #1 Copper cables with copper ends done and paid $18.51 tax included.

[PlymouthBarracuda]

Originally Posted by RickyC

Go to your local welding supply store. They will make you cables. Had 2 #1 Copper cables with copper ends done and paid $18.51 tax included.

I found on rockauto any cables I need )

I just can't understand the relation of the hot oil to the bad cranking (or no crank)...
Does hot engine require more battery power and more ground ?