LSA Intercooler Cover Rear Bolt Removal - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

jason78 · 10-27-2022, 09:52 PM

Ok, so I went to removing the intercooler cover tonight and was feeling like the man after I got the 4 rear bolts out, Then I discovered 2 more that make the other look like cake.

So I'm really not interested in drilling out the cowling as I have see some do. I'm hoping the experts can point me to an attachment or tool of some kind that will help make this a little easier. I had someone recommend a Matco A4UB which looks promising, just hoping someone in a performance shop or who deals with these all the time can share some wise tips or other ideas. Thanks

Risingson05 · 10-27-2022, 10:08 PM

You can bend the cowling upward alittle to get to those rear bolts , and using long extension and swivel -or drop the cradle down alittle .. taking off is the easy part ,it’s getting them torqued back down will be the hard part .. My OCD kicks in and have to hit the torque rating for them bolts

I’ve seen hand wrench with a swivel joint on it being used once , but that might be hard to find ..

gbu27 · 10-29-2022, 02:35 PM

The factory manual has you drop the rear of the front subframe / engine mounting an inch or so for clearance. It’s real fun…

SIM GhostrdrZ · 10-29-2022, 04:09 PM

Set the car on jack stands on the front 2 punch weld jack points. That allows the front subframe to actually drop down as specified. I do this on a lift and it’s much easier than on the ground. It still is not fun to get to the rear bolts but it make it possible. I did not want to cut or bend my cowling.

jason78 · 10-29-2022, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gbu27

The factory manual has you drop the rear of the front subframe / engine mounting an inch or so for clearance. It’s real fun…

Sounds like it! I don't have a lift or the confidence level to do that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SIM GhostrdrZ

Set the car on jack stands on the front 2 punch weld jack points. That allows the front subframe to actually drop down as specified. I do this on a lift and it’s much easier than on the ground. It still is not fun to get to the rear bolts but it make it possible. I did not want to cut or bend my cowling.

Thanks! I'll give that a shot. I almost have access from the top rear now, if I could only get a 1/2" or so that would make a huge difference. I've ordered a couple more socket and extension gizmos that should be here next week. I really don't want to cut or drill the cowling.

tartagliazl1 · 10-29-2022, 08:18 PM

Stop making it hard on yourself. Drill the cowl. I can get the lid off in 5 minutes now.

gbu27 · 10-30-2022, 07:40 PM

Yea I shoulda said… I cut spots out, it’s just easier, and no one will ever see it because it’s under the plastic you take off

tartagliazl1 · 10-30-2022, 08:17 PM

I drilled holes above each bolt. Then put body plugs in the holes.

jason78 · 10-30-2022, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tartagliazl1

Stop making it hard on yourself. Drill the cowl. I can get the lid off in 5 minutes now.

Trying to keep that as a last resort. Im very close to having them. At this point its a challenge and I've already ordered some tools so I may as well give those a shot.

bstromback2002 · 10-31-2022, 11:53 AM

I believe I did the reach around with a gear wrench when I did mine or maybe a 1/4 ratchet and a socket.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

roh · 10-31-2022, 09:40 PM

The 1st one I did, I drilled the cowl but I didn't like what it did to the cowl insulation when the hole saw exited thru the backside.

The 2nd one I did, I loosened the subframe bolts & couldn't believe how much easier it was with just a little extra room over the top.

I have a lift so it was easy for me, but if I didn't I think I would still drop the subframe if the car was nice.

1MtnGoat · 11-01-2022, 12:10 PM

When I had my SC replaced under warranty it was 2hr. 40 min. from the time I dropped off the car at the dealer 'till the tech called and said the install was finished. No holes drilled!

ZL1_Chris · 11-01-2022, 04:55 PM

Agreed drill holes

ZMEnow · 11-01-2022, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1MtnGoat

When I had my SC replaced under warranty it was 2hr. 40 min. from the time I dropped off the car at the dealer 'till the tech called and said the install was finished. No holes drilled!

The tech bulletin says to drop the subframe one inch in front, end of bolt in the back. You can be done in under and hour and a half. My supercharger was also replaced in under 2 hours.

10-27-2022, 09:52 PM	#1
jason78 Drives: 2013 ZL1 Convertible Join Date: Oct 2022 Location: Fort Mill, SC Posts: 8	LSA Intercooler Cover Rear Bolt Removal Ok, so I went to removing the intercooler cover tonight and was feeling like the man after I got the 4 rear bolts out, Then I discovered 2 more that make the other look like cake. So I'm really not interested in drilling out the cowling as I have see some do. I'm hoping the experts can point me to an attachment or tool of some kind that will help make this a little easier. I had someone recommend a Matco A4UB which looks promising, just hoping someone in a performance shop or who deals with these all the time can share some wise tips or other ideas. Thanks

10-27-2022, 10:08 PM	#2
Risingson05 Drives: 2015 zl1 m6 Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: Alaska Posts: 702	You can bend the cowling upward alittle to get to those rear bolts , and using long extension and swivel -or drop the cradle down alittle .. taking off is the easy part ,it’s getting them torqued back down will be the hard part .. My OCD kicks in and have to hit the torque rating for them bolts I’ve seen hand wrench with a swivel joint on it being used once , but that might be hard to find .. __________________ 791whp 699 ft lbs torque on E30 - ported sc /heads by boost mode racing - PAT G cam /Tune PB:10.7 @133.9

10-29-2022, 08:18 PM	#6
tartagliazl1 Drives: 2013 zl1 vert Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Rochester, New york Posts: 949	Stop making it hard on yourself. Drill the cowl. I can get the lid off in 5 minutes now. __________________ 22% lower/ 2.5 upper/ 2” headers/ cat delete/ x-pipe/ 2 gallon x tank/ 100-3 pump/ fic 850/ dsx aux kit/ 103mm throttle body/ RPM 5” intake/ meth kit/ prometh lid injection/FI interchiller/ 160* stat/ ngk-7/ msd wires/ elite catch can/ tsp cam/ Che trunnions/ ported supercharger/ 1/2” lid spacer/ brick mod/BMR toe and trailing arms/ 751hp 757 tq SAE @17.3lb on a loaded dyno.

10-30-2022, 08:17 PM	#8
tartagliazl1 Drives: 2013 zl1 vert Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Rochester, New york Posts: 949	I drilled holes above each bolt. Then put body plugs in the holes. __________________ 22% lower/ 2.5 upper/ 2” headers/ cat delete/ x-pipe/ 2 gallon x tank/ 100-3 pump/ fic 850/ dsx aux kit/ 103mm throttle body/ RPM 5” intake/ meth kit/ prometh lid injection/FI interchiller/ 160* stat/ ngk-7/ msd wires/ elite catch can/ tsp cam/ Che trunnions/ ported supercharger/ 1/2” lid spacer/ brick mod/BMR toe and trailing arms/ 751hp 757 tq SAE @17.3lb on a loaded dyno.

11-01-2022, 12:10 PM	#12
1MtnGoat Drives: '12 SIM ZL1, 1 of 49 Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Eastern TN Posts: 459	When I had my SC replaced under warranty it was 2hr. 40 min. from the time I dropped off the car at the dealer 'till the tech called and said the install was finished. No holes drilled! __________________ Under Hood - Painted strut bar ends w/custom Polished Stainless mounting hardware, E2 CC, RotoFab CAI, ZL1 underhood decal, Amsoil oil, Black billet strut covers, Metco pulleys, intercooler reservoir, JRE 75 RWHP package. Chassis - Hawk ceramic brake pads, ZL1 wheel decals, Amsoil fluids Interior - A pillar gauge pod w/Aeroforce Interceptor gauges, Polished ZL1 speaker rings, ZL1 mats and console lid, Custom GPS mount Exterior - 3M clear bra, LED driving lights, PIAA Plasma Ion yellow fog lights, Window tint, CF bowties, Technostalgia sequential tail lights

10-29-2022, 02:35 PM	#3
gbu27 Drives: 2013 ZL1 Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: NC Posts: 106	The factory manual has you drop the rear of the front subframe / engine mounting an inch or so for clearance. It’s real fun…

10-29-2022, 04:09 PM	#4
SIM GhostrdrZ Drives: ‘14 Z/28 ‘14 ZL1 M6 vert Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,283 View My Garage	Set the car on jack stands on the front 2 punch weld jack points. That allows the front subframe to actually drop down as specified. I do this on a lift and it’s much easier than on the ground. It still is not fun to get to the rear bolts but it make it possible. I did not want to cut or bend my cowling.

10-30-2022, 07:40 PM	#7
gbu27 Drives: 2013 ZL1 Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: NC Posts: 106	Yea I shoulda said… I cut spots out, it’s just easier, and no one will ever see it because it’s under the plastic you take off

10-31-2022, 11:53 AM	#10
bstromback2002 Drives: 2010 camaro ss Join Date: Aug 2021 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 102	I believe I did the reach around with a gear wrench when I did mine or maybe a 1/4 ratchet and a socket. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

10-31-2022, 09:40 PM	#11
roh Drives: 2013 ZL1 Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Northeast Posts: 72	The 1st one I did, I drilled the cowl but I didn't like what it did to the cowl insulation when the hole saw exited thru the backside. The 2nd one I did, I loosened the subframe bolts & couldn't believe how much easier it was with just a little extra room over the top. I have a lift so it was easy for me, but if I didn't I think I would still drop the subframe if the car was nice.

11-01-2022, 04:55 PM	#13
ZL1_Chris ZL1_Chris Drives: 2015 ZL1 Camaro Join Date: Oct 2022 Location: Largo,FL Posts: 100 View My Garage	Agreed drill holes