build journal - '13 2ss/1le [COTW 8/15/16]

[h018871]

good discussion here regarding the brake duct deflectors: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=505806

My OCD was not comfortable with zip ties holding the deflectors in place, so I decided to try to use the 6th gen arms. They are aluminum, much lighter and about an inch shorter (will increase caster)...........both good things. They did need to be modified slightly in order to fit. The piviot bolt hole was smaller than the 5th gen bolt and the bushing was narrower. A 9/16 bit and drill press opened up the hole, I used 3 steps to get the hole opened up to keep it straight, using bits I had (12.5mm --> 13mm --> 9/16). Then made spacers for each side of the bushing, I kept them the same OD as the aluminum center section.
Since the 6th gen arms are shorter, I made plates to lock the pivot bolt in place.

The 6th gen SS cars come with front brake duct deflectors installed, some if not all come with a "track" deflector kit in the trunk.

Part numbers for the 6th gen radius arms: FE4 (SS 1LE): 84051641 (L), 84051642 (R)
I went ahead and got new ball joint lock nuts too (11516382)

Street deflector numbers: 23383583 & 23383584
"track deflector kit": 84145204
Deflector mounting bolts: 11589012

[STONE SS]

Let me know when you get it aligned and what the caster came out to. Did you happen to weigh the arms to see what the weight differential is? Also do they have the same style bushing so I could migrate the inserts I currently have?

[h018871]

The track deflector kit includes smaller backing plates. I don't plan to change them on track days, so the new ones are on! Probably not necessary since the 1LE backing plates are small compared to both 5th & 6th gen SS backing plates.
The mounting holes needed to be just slightly opened up with a rat tail file, apparently the mounting on the 6th gen is slightly narrower.

[h018871]

Originally Posted by STONE SS

Let me know when you get it aligned and what the caster came out to. Did you happen to weigh the arms to see what the weight differential is? Also do they have the same style bushing so I could migrate the inserts I currently have?

The arms come with very stiff inserts, the voids and aluminum sleeves are not the same. The 17 1LE inserts fit the void much better than the 5th gen's did.
I did not weigh them...........but it was quite a bit lighter (not scientific i know)

[krazzyk01]

Originally Posted by h018871

Hit 90K last week...........

Man! And I was crying about hitting 56,000 on my car two weeks ago.
LOL

Rock on!

[hammdo]

Nicely done! Interested in alignment details...

-Don

[h018871]

back from the alignment................ 8.0 on the left and 8.1 on the right. as close to perfect as can be expected.
put a couple of hundred miles on it (275/315 street tires), car felt good. return to center is strong, turn in feels more precise.......even with the staggered tires. may need to tighten up the front sway bar when running the 285 square set. we'll see. the tire has moved forward in the wheel arch, to be expected. it does not rub.

the difference between 5.6 and 8.0 degrees

[h018871]

When changes occur slowly, they are very hard to notice.
Example: my clutch had gotten quite stiff to depress the pedal. I didn't really notice until we put a new one in another 5th Gen. HUGE difference. But my clutch still worked flawlessly and I had no issues. I also noticed that the transmission would grind/clunk going into 3rd sometimes, I thought it may have been me or the shifter bushing was wearing out.

Because of the mileage I felt as though it would be good to go through the trans to add the bronze bushing and rear bearing support (great info from CamaroCracka here http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=394512). It turns out that the 2013 1LE transmissions already have the rear bearing support.............at least mine did.

Once disassembled, the input shaft was bad at the pilot bearing and the splines that the clutch disks slide on were also bad. that explains the hard pedal.
Additionally both 3rd gear & syncros were bad. That explains the 3rd gear crunch that had developed. the rest of the trans was in great shape. Again, since mine is a 2013 1LE trans, the input shaft did not need to be upgraded to a high nickel piece, the factory input shaft is plenty strong. I did go ahead and do both the Cryogenic Treatment on all internals & REM polishing of 1-6 gears and syncronizers.

Soooooo, rebuilt trans, new clutch/slave & throwout bearing. While there, I noticed a slight leak from the top of the engine rear cover and that the pilot bearing was rough. Replaced those too!

[h018871]

I have noticed for some time that the car has a shake in the back when at speed. I mostly dismissed it as tire imbalance and changing balance when at the track. Lately, I noticed the shake on the street tires at TX highway speeds. I have had a spare set of 1LE axles for quite some time, it was time to put them in. I also had a complete spare differential and decided to change the center section and axles while the car was down for the transmission.


The car is back together and I'm breaking in the clutch.
No shake at speed
Clutch pedal is super light, compared to before, now back to stock feel
Transmission shifts smooth

I'm ready for another 100,000 miles! (EDIT) So I thought............

[h018871]

I took the car out for a spirited run with some friends and blew the outer passenger side CV joint on my new (had them for quite a while) axle. Worked with my parts guy to get a replacement. It turns out that the 1LE axles are on galactic backorder......... So, I went ahead and upgraded to Z28 axles because they are available. While there I went ahead and upgraded to the Z28 hubs (25954415 / ACDelco RW20-119). Thx to AG1LE for the tip to search eBay, I got a fantastic deal, so changed all 4.
Discussion here http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=518429

There is a noticable difference in the hubs, but nothing obvious with the axles.

[h018871]

The last several times that the clutch has been bled, the pedal return has been weak/poor. It took many pump cycles to get the pedal back. This started before the trans/clutch maintenance.
I suspected the master cylinder and made plans to replace it. While there I decided to update the pedal assy to the ZL1 version according to a June 2016 TSB.
One of many discussions here http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=456908
Thx to Freddy G for a copy of the TSB

There seem to be several differences with the new assy. The over-center return spring is larger and stiffer, a straight tension return spring w/ bracket has been added and the master cylinder attachment is now a different color plastic. I removed the ZL1 pedal cover and put the rubber one back on.

Bled the system and the pedal was firm quickly. The pedal is just slightly stiffer, not obvious. Engagement is in the same place and seemed smoother last night.........this may have been because it was a warm evening and the fluids got to temp quickly.

[h018871]

Took the car to Cresson, 3.1 mile course this weekend. Thiw was the first time since swapping control arms I got to run the car on the 285 square setup. I've been dailying the car for 5 months, so I am used to the "return to center" feel and no longer notice it. The car felt sure and nimble, I did cord the inner edge of the driver's side front and rear tires. The rear was not too surprising (tire was DONE) but I did not expect the front...........although there are two high speed left handers. Ricochet and Big Bend. I'll dial back the camber ~ 0.5 degrees on the driver's side next time out.
Outside wear on the front tires did not seem as severe as what I'm used to run, TWS (RIP). I'd like to attribute it to the caster allowing more camber as you turn. I'm new to Cresson and freely accept that this is an apples to oranges comparison.

Just my 2 cents (oh yeah, my son ran his '16 ATS-V & we had a blast)

[h018871]

I ran the "track" deflectors, they had bugs on the lower section (indicating they are scooping up air). I pushed the pads to a bit thinner than I normally do, the rotors did not crack. Funny thing though, the outer surface has a slight blue tint to it and the inner looks "normal"

Question for more experienced gurus: Is this because the inner surface gets more cooling than the outer surface? The outer surface cooling air has to pass between both surfaces and doesn't have as much of a cooling effect from the air???


EDIT: cudos out to MACH83 for the tip regarding orientation of the speed sensor wire. Outstanding, thank you sir!
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...8&postcount=34

[hammdo]

Nice! I'm still debating on upgrading to the 6th Gen 1LE Radius Rods vs Caster Locks -- need to see.

I'll be testing the race deflectors next time out. Sounds like you had a blast!

-Don