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Old 11-26-2018, 07:07 PM   #29
KalCorp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevieturbo View Post

Also, the routing of that oil return does look quite long with little gravity assistance. Ideally each turbo would drain locally to each side, downwards to a low point on the pan/timing cover ( above level of oil in pan )

Routing one of them sideways from one side to the other really is not ideal, but the hose looks to have decent ID
Although also an easy trap for oil if it doesnt run downhill enough
.

I agree and got new better line that won’t bend as easy.

I would like to have each one drain to each side. I have to check is there is room on driver side.

Once it goes to passenger side it does go up little and then back down. It’s not all downhill

I will try to get a picture of it soon



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Old 11-27-2018, 11:56 AM   #30
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it's pretty obvious that with that amount of oil in the cold side, either your turbos are screwed, or more likely there is something ridiculously wrong with whatever you've done with the breather system.

Also noted because one photo shows some sort of attempt at a PCV system, but early on you stated your breathers were vented to atmos. So clearly more misleading or inaccurate information coming.
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Old 11-27-2018, 02:39 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevieturbo View Post
it's pretty obvious that with that amount of oil in the cold side, either your turbos are screwed, or more likely there is something ridiculously wrong with whatever you've done with the breather system.

Also noted because one photo shows some sort of attempt at a PCV system, but early on you stated your breathers were vented to atmos. So clearly more misleading or inaccurate information coming.
Nothing misleading. the Pass side was going to a catch can and then exit port was vented to atmos. Only because oil was coming out when i got on it.

driver side cover was open, and vally. little oil cam out of them.

i did change this after i started to post this.

now the Driver side port and Vally go to catch can and exit goes to one way check and then to intake.

The pass side now is vented to Atmos. working on getting a Full time Vac to can and to a new CSS.

Its running very good now but i wont go over 4.5krpm until i get it all done right.
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Old 11-27-2018, 02:46 PM   #32
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Also would it be better to put in a Electric oil scavenge pump? positive scavenging would be a good thing for turbos right?
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Old 11-27-2018, 03:24 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo View Post
Oil would not be white smoke, and it would stink like ****
By no means am I a turbo expert but...

I would have to disagree. When my scavenge pump fuse popped I was pushing white smoke like I was fumigating the neighborhood.

I bet you are getting too much oil to your turbos or not a big enough oil drain.
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Old 11-27-2018, 04:05 PM   #34
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TT issue, White smoke

Working both breather setup and drain


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Last edited by KalCorp; 11-27-2018 at 05:03 PM.
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Old 11-27-2018, 04:59 PM   #35
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Very much disagree, burning oil is never white, and it always stinks. That's just a simple fact whether some perceive it differently.

If no part of your breather/PCV or whatever is piped so oil can ever find it's way into that cold side plumbing, then it is either the turbos are screwed, or huge oil drain issues ( which again can come back to inadequate crankcase breathing too )

But with turbos mounted high like that, there should never be any need for external scavenging, although as a desperate move it could be considered.

A simple and full 5/8" drain from each turbo to front cover or pan as already mentioned is more than adequate.

IMO avoid all this AN nonsense, as even whilst some might think -10 is 5/8", the actual ID of many of the fittings is even less than 1/2", some even closer to 7/16", just rubbish for this application.

And what you shown as an oil drain running sideways across the engine bay...as already said, that's never a good option.

Keep it simple, good gravity drain and always downhill. Never sideways, and shortest route possible.

And you will need to clean all that oil out, as it could be falsely causing the smoke even if you manage to fix the initial problem.
It takes very little oil to cause a lot of smoke
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Old 11-27-2018, 05:01 PM   #36
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Thanks for all the feed back!




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Old 11-27-2018, 10:23 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevieturbo View Post
Very much disagree, burning oil is never white, and it always stinks. That's just a simple fact whether some perceive it differently.

If no part of your breather/PCV or whatever is piped so oil can ever find it's way into that cold side plumbing, then it is either the turbos are screwed, or huge oil drain issues ( which again can come back to inadequate crankcase breathing too )

But with turbos mounted high like that, there should never be any need for external scavenging, although as a desperate move it could be considered.

A simple and full 5/8" drain from each turbo to front cover or pan as already mentioned is more than adequate.

IMO avoid all this AN nonsense, as even whilst some might think -10 is 5/8", the actual ID of many of the fittings is even less than 1/2", some even closer to 7/16", just rubbish for this application.

And what you shown as an oil drain running sideways across the engine bay...as already said, that's never a good option.

Keep it simple, good gravity drain and always downhill. Never sideways, and shortest route possible.

And you will need to clean all that oil out, as it could be falsely causing the smoke even if you manage to fix the initial problem.
It takes very little oil to cause a lot of smoke
KALCORP, you don't know me but please please listen to stevieturbo. He may be one of the top two of three turbo folks on this forum, ever.... and i know most all of them worth listening to...

He's a little wacky and from across the pond, but he knows of what he speaks....

I have low mount twins and a dry sump for oil scavenging, but there has been many a time in the past Stevie was able to guide me in the right direction.
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Old 12-01-2018, 01:36 PM   #38
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KalCorp,


The leak down test rules out a breach in the piston/ring/cylinder wall, so that is good news.


The gravity drain from the turbos needs full time evacuation to allow free flow as any pressure present will restrict the rate of flow.


-10 is the correct line size you should use, and you will want to verify your aftermarket valve covers have full length baffles underneath or you will not be able to prevent oil ingestion. Only a few aftermarket designs have proper baffling. This is critical.


The best solution for you is an actual belt driven vacuum pump system like GZ Motorsports offers for the LS engines. Used with an adjustable vacuum relief valve your goal will be to maintain 14-15" of constant vacuum. This will also aid in better ring seal and eliminate ring flutter. (Ring flutter generally occurs at higher RPM's and high boost so leak down wont show that).


If you wish to run a proper catchcan system, our E2-X Ultra is the only one designed for your level of boost, and you will need special high pressure/high flow/low cracking checkvalves. And you will need to pull from both the valley which should have the factory fixed orifice to control the rate of flow, and the driverside valve cover. You will also need to install an inline flow restrict or in the vacuum line at the intake manifold vacuum barb. For your application that fixed orifice will need to be 11/64" to 3/16" in diameter. Any larger will result in excessive flow and draw oil through, any smaller and the rate of flow will be to little.


The second outlet from the can can be connected to each turbo (T'd together) by drilling and tapping into the inlet housing of the turbo's themselves as shown here:


Take care to not interfere with the cold side turbine blades. The opening of the barb must protrude into the incoming airflow ideally at a slight angle as the flow past the opening is what creates vacuum for in boost suction, so you do not need an intake tube if you still want to run no filters.


After you have sealed the engine fittings and barbs not being used, you will need to provide for incoming filtered fresh air. This needs to enter the opposite side of the engine as your evacuating from. The yellow you see will also be present underneath the valve covers. This is a result of venting VS evacuating. Leads to accelerated wear and damage to internal parts and is why NO form of Professional Motorsports vents unless the class rules prohibit the advantages of a evac system (Camaro COPO in Stock and SuperStock classes as an example, claimer stock cars as well). In these cases oil is changed after each race to prevent damage. So it is never good in any way to vent as your seeing first hand. So you want filtered fresh air entering the passenger valve cover. This then flushes and replaces the foul contaminant laden vapors your now leaving in the crankcase to accumulate.


Our billet cleanside separator configured with a -10 AN fitting on it will provide this and from the CSS you will run a hose to a remote breather filter.This usually would go to the end of a cone type filter on most turbo and centri builds if a filter(s) is used. This not only provides a good cross flow of the flushing make up air but also is a fail-safe so in the event you do build excessive pressure it will simply escape out of the CSS.


As your in FL, we will also offer to have a R&D firm we use in West Central FL to configure and install all as long as you purchase the system from us free, not charge to you.


Good luck, and let us know if we can assist further.


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Old 12-02-2018, 07:48 PM   #39
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Working on breather/can setup and also flow restrict :-)

Once i get it somewhat stable i will look a new Catch can. Putting Vacuum tap on the filters i found that fit. so this should be good for full time vacuum.

NO room for vacuum pump on this setup. These Turbo's and piping take up everything.
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Old 12-04-2018, 02:35 PM   #40
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TT issue, White smoke

Thought I try the Metco universal push-in breather at 45 angle. Normal one and Any CSS won’t fit.

Its very close to downpipe. I have to check the temp there to see but it should be ok.

Next option is a 10an and hose to off cover filter or breather catch can.





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Last edited by KalCorp; 12-04-2018 at 08:15 PM.
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Old 01-17-2019, 09:26 AM   #41
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I got almost everything to make a new line for Turbo oil drain so they dont merge together.

I got a 3/8 tap for driver side into pan, but it came with a 37/64 drill bit that is 6in long.
I cant find a Circle cutter that is for 3/8 tap that is small to do this!

I Need something like this that works with normal drill and is for 3/8 tap. any ideas?

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Old 01-17-2019, 10:36 AM   #42
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Go to Vortech supercharger's site and and download the instructions to install a Ysi on a 5th gen. In the instructions, you'll see how and where they have you drill the pan for an oil return.

In the parts list, you will also see the bit they send with the kit for the tapping of the pan.

Edit:
Here is the download link and you want to read Part 5 which starts on page 22.

From the parts list, you need a 9/16 Roto Broach and a 3/8 NPT tap (or whatever size tap you want to use that matches the fitting you want to screw in)
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