1LE Rear Hub Removal-HELP ASAP

[shu92870]

SO
I cant find in the threads about 1LE rear hub removal

I can get to only 1 of the 3 bolts with a wrench.
I CANNOT get a socket on any of them as the axle is in the way. It has an oversized radius/decreasing into hub.
Makes it impossible to get socket on the bolt.
Ive busted knuckles already and worried about rabbit earing/stripping the bolts.

Am i missing something?

It seems other videos the rear axle has a smaller diameter allowing a socket to be used.

Pics on way.

Reason im replacing is the bearing was making a noise.
I have the axle nut off.
I can push the rear axle in by hand about an inch or so.
Maybe the bearing went bad because im missing the axle thrust washer? Thats my guess anyway?

[oldman14ss]

I had the same problem I jacked up the hub and got to one of the bolts. SS axles are smaller. I ended up taking the upper control arm loose and the toe link at the hub end loose. forget about a torque wrench. I tried and I think I got a couple of them. but I just tighten them. I was going to look for an offset 13mm boxed end wrench. thru snap on or cornwell driver.

[shu92870]

Originally Posted by oldman14ss

I had the same problem I jacked up the hub and got to one of the bolts. SS axles are smaller. I ended up taking the upper control arm loose and the toe link at the hub end loose. forget about a torque wrench. I tried and I think I got a couple of them. but I just tighten them. I was going to look for an offset 13mm boxed end wrench. thru snap on or cornwell driver.

I was hoping that WASNT the answer.

Damn.

SO much for the track day this weekend.

I wouldn't feel comfortable undoing those pieces and not aligning before event.

I was thinking of the 13mm or 1/2 racheting box end or smaller walled/smaller socket. Just too tight.

Damn it.

[oldman14ss]

you don't take them all the way off just at the hub end believe me I know what you're going through. you don't have to completely remov toe link. just that long bolt thru the hub bracket. it was easy after I removed those bolts you can them wobble the hub around . when youre done just put the bolts back in jack up the hub to simulate load and torque to spec.

[oldman14ss]

I also took a big screw driver and pryed the axle back into the punkin for some more clearance. good luck and let me know how it goes. the oldman.......

[Pearlj10]

I agree with OldMan, loosen the UCA and toe link. I thought, like you, that a stubby 13 mm or the like might work but it didn’t. I did have luck with a short 13 mm and swivel socket once those other suspension bolts were loosened. These universal joint sockets look like they’d work even better. Be patient, you’ll get them.

[oldman14ss]

now I recall I got a box end wrench on it and got a cheater pipe and it broke loose. those bolts are like you tighten them so far and they just stop, that's why I just cranked them down . the 3 hub bolts that is.

[oldman14ss]

I tried a swivel socket but it was still too long. probably by a different manufacturer

[shu92870]

Well I made the dash to Autozone.
I bought a set of kinked end wrenches. Or bent more aggressive then standard.
Ive got 2 loosened up enough.
But that third by the toe rod I’ll look at tomorrow morning.

I may see if I can postpone track day for a future date.

I have a lot to update.
Rotors
Pads
Bearings
Stainless Steel lines
Mogul 600 Dot 4 Fluid swap
Try and bleed out clutch

I think I’ll take my time and do my
Headers / clutch n Slave upgrade / tune
Too.

I lost my job so I got time.
Its why I’m trying to do it all myself last minute.

[shu92870]

Do you all recommend leaving a couple full threads into the bearing and hammering on the bolt ends to loosen up the bearing?
Then loosen the bolts all the way out?
Work the bearing out from there?

[shu92870]

Update.
Hells yeah.

Got last bolt undone.
Came out really easy.
Cleaned up too.

Bad news is there was a thrust washer.
Bearing feels ok. Maybe grease came out?
Was really greasy.

Is there supposed to be this much slop in axle without the bearing?

Posted tools I used.

[Pearlj10]

Nice! Thanks for posting the tools used.

[shu92870]

I’m stuck on the last one on other side.
I may have rabbit eared the bolt.
Now what?

[Mgizzle]

The grease is there to prevent seizing of bearing to knuckle. Its not from the bearing. You can undo the link at the knuckle and no realignment needed. Download instructions to installing the GM Performance diff cooling lines, it explains how to drop the entire diff without realignment needed. Its possible.

As far as tick noise, aluminum wheels on big brake rotors like to click. Google "wheel click" and you will see porsche, bmws mercedes cadillac corvette and many others all have aome wheel click. However totally understand being nervous about it.

Bottom line you have to pull the half shaft from knuckle, super easy when you undo a fee knuckle links. You pull on half shaft at diff and it pops out. Then pull shaft from knuckle, some even just rotate knuckle up u til half shafts come out a bit enough for you to remove the bearing bolt, thats the easiest.