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Old 02-02-2015, 06:48 AM   #1
Ice992
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Stabilitrak/Reduced Engine Power

Camaro decided it was time for the Stabilitrak/Reduced Engine Power issue this morning.

Interestingly enough, unlike some of the others that have had this issue, I was able to still drive just fine all the way to work downtown. I just couldn't go over 2k RPMs. Tried onstar, they attempted a remote diagnostic 2x and it failed both times.

Guess I'll have to see if I can get the codes read/reset. Hopefully it's just a sensor glitch and not a real issue. This would happen at 36,500 miles
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Old 02-02-2015, 08:31 AM   #2
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Went out to the parking garage and started it again after letting it sit for an hour or two. Stabilitrak and Reduced Engine notifications are gone, but still have the CEL.
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Old 02-02-2015, 08:47 AM   #3
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their not gunna give you any problems for it being 500 miles over.
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Old 02-02-2015, 09:30 AM   #4
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their not gunna give you any problems for it being 500 miles over.
Headers/Tune void warranty.

I meant just didn't expect the issue at such low mileage.

If I did still have warranty, it always seems issues always occur just out of warranty period
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Old 02-02-2015, 10:23 AM   #5
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I used to have tons of issues with Stabilitrak. The problems with these cars is EVERYTHING is electronic, and so many different things can set off Stabilitrak.

Did your car have a rough start this morning?

If the CEL is still on, take it to O reily's or any auto store and have them read the code. When my stabilitrak would get set off (reduced engine power, misfiring, and backfiring) If I turned it off, let it sit for a few hours, then go to turn it back on, everything would be fine and the CEL would go away after a few cycles of turning on and off. My ended up being a tuning issue with the MAP sensor.
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Old 02-02-2015, 11:11 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by RGRCamaro View Post
I used to have tons of issues with Stabilitrak. The problems with these cars is EVERYTHING is electronic, and so many different things can set off Stabilitrak.

Did your car have a rough start this morning?

If the CEL is still on, take it to O reily's or any auto store and have them read the code. When my stabilitrak would get set off (reduced engine power, misfiring, and backfiring) If I turned it off, let it sit for a few hours, then go to turn it back on, everything would be fine and the CEL would go away after a few cycles of turning on and off. My ended up being a tuning issue with the MAP sensor.
Now that you mention it... I remote started this morning and the initial start did seem a little off. It was kind of rough (like a stutter) and sounded quieter than normal for a cold start. I didn't even connect that as anything until you said that...

Hopefully my issue is similar to yours. (easy to fix lol)
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Last edited by Ice992; 02-02-2015 at 12:53 PM.
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Old 02-02-2015, 02:21 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Ice992 View Post
Now that you mention it... I remote started this morning and the initial start did seem a little off. It was kind of rough (like a stutter) and sounded quieter than normal for a cold start. I didn't even connect that as anything until you said that...

Hopefully my issue is similar to yours. (easy to fix lol)

Let's hope it is! Let me know how it goes.

Good Luck!
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Old 02-02-2015, 02:34 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by RGRCamaro View Post
I used to have tons of issues with Stabilitrak. The problems with these cars is EVERYTHING is electronic, and so many different things can set off Stabilitrak.

Did your car have a rough start this morning?

If the CEL is still on, take it to O reily's or any auto store and have them read the code. When my stabilitrak would get set off (reduced engine power, misfiring, and backfiring) If I turned it off, let it sit for a few hours, then go to turn it back on, everything would be fine and the CEL would go away after a few cycles of turning on and off. My ended up being a tuning issue with the MAP sensor.
Reduced Engine Power light is largely due to battery problems. Have your battery tested for both voltage and Cold Cranking Amps. Post back if you do.
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Old 02-02-2015, 03:00 PM   #9
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Reduced Engine Power light is largely due to battery problems. Have your battery tested for both voltage and Cold Cranking Amps. Post back if you do.

My battery was fine. It was the first thing I suspected when I had my issues. I replaced it anyways with a black top interstate (Winter was coming up) Then I moved on to the spark plus, all were fine (A fray of any kind or a slightly bad connection can cause it) Then I moved on to the harness, no cuts or frays anywhere. Then thought it was bad fuel ( a misfire can cause it too) fuel was fine, cleaned and used octane booster, wasn't the issue.

Eventually just came to the fact that the P0108 (MAP Sensor) code mine was throwing was a tuning error, Originally thought the sensor was just bad. Took it back to my tuner for a re-tune. Then everything has been fine! (knock on wood) it's been a couple months.

Ice992, if you haven't tried the above, I would give it a shot! Cheap to nothing for most of the easy stuff.

Nothing but trial and error is sometimes the only way to go about it.
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Old 02-03-2015, 07:24 AM   #10
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Well, I drove it 5x yesterday after work. The stabilitrak/reduced power issue never came back. On the 5th startup the CEL was gone and it's like nothing ever happened.

I still want to go get the codes pulled. I may pick up a handheld tuner or basic code reader just to have.

I'm still going to get the battery checked also. Being here in Houston where it goes from uber hot, to mildly chilly I've heard others say batteries don't always last as long. Probably going to replace the OEM battery with a dry cell of some sort just for good measure.
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Old 02-03-2015, 07:40 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Ice992 View Post
Well, I drove it 5x yesterday after work. The stabilitrak/reduced power issue never came back. On the 5th startup the CEL was gone and it's like nothing ever happened.

I still want to go get the codes pulled. I may pick up a handheld tuner or basic code reader just to have.

I'm still going to get the battery checked also. Being here in Houston where it goes from uber hot, to mildly chilly I've heard others say batteries don't always last as long. Probably going to replace the OEM battery with a dry cell of some sort just for good measure.

Good to hear! If not, your dealer can read your code history.

That's why I went ahead and changed my battery, Tulsa sees very hot and cold temps year round. Almost had to move to Houston, not sure I would of liked all that triaffc..
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Old 02-03-2015, 11:14 AM   #12
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Was the CEL flashing?
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Old 02-03-2015, 02:46 PM   #13
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This issue just got me today while driving to work. I parked and on/off engine a few time : nothing happen, it is normal now. It scared me. I could like to follow this issue and advise. Cheer.
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Old 02-03-2015, 04:28 PM   #14
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Good to hear! If not, your dealer can read your code history.

That's why I went ahead and changed my battery, Tulsa sees very hot and cold temps year round. Almost had to move to Houston, not sure I would of liked all that triaffc..
Traffic isn't so bad depending on where you work/live. I commute 50 miles round trip everyday and as long as I travel downtown early I'm good. I tend to go in nice and early, so I can go home early too. (Usually)

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Was the CEL flashing?
No it was solid.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tamphuong View Post
This issue just got me today while driving to work. I parked and on/off engine a few time : nothing happen, it is normal now. It scared me. I could like to follow this issue and advise. Cheer.
hope yours isn't anything major! Seems to be an entire laundry list of things that can cause very similar issues.
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