Should I stroke my LS? - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Fignewton · 08-01-2020, 10:06 AM

So the number one rod bearing pulled a Houdini on me

the engine only has 50k on it and I don’t really want to bore it since the cylinders still have a nice looking cross hatch. So my question is this: is there a stroker crank and rod set that I can use with my stock pistons? OR is there a stroker crank that I can use with stock pistons and rods (I don’t mind replacing just the #1 rod)? You can see all of my mods in my signature line below except the cam specs (231/242 113 degree lobe separation, +3 advance, .600 lift on both intake and exhaust) and I think a stroker crank would work really well with what I have in it now. I don’t really need anymore horsepower but I’ll take it. I just really love the sound of a stroked LS

Athletics101 · 08-01-2020, 11:32 AM

Stroke it but only if your doing the work yourself. If you paying someone’s do it, it might be cheaper to just buying a pre assembled short block.

Black_SS10 · 08-01-2020, 10:36 PM

Sure, stroke it. Just be careful on how much. Don't let the pistons come out the hole too much. Piston speed is gonna change.

Fignewton · 08-02-2020, 07:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Athletics101

Stroke it but only if your doing the work yourself. If you paying someone’s do it, it might be cheaper to just buying a pre assembled short block.

I do all of my own work. I just can’t see going through the expense of honing/boring it and new pistons if I don’t have to. It dynoed 459 rwhp before and really that was plenty of power considering I don’t race it.

Fignewton · 08-02-2020, 07:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Black_SS10

Sure, stroke it. Just be careful on how much. Don't let the pistons come out the hole too much. Piston speed is gonna change.

Everything I have read says a 4.00 inch stroke with 6.125 inch rods is the max you can go with stock pistons but it seems like none of the crankshaft/rod combos I can find work with stock pistons. This is where my dilemma lies.

Clarkstar · 08-02-2020, 07:32 AM

You may run into piston to valve clearance issues with that cam, additional stroke and stock pistons. I would buy a rotating assembly with new pistons that have reliefs.

Fignewton · 08-03-2020, 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clarkstar

You may run into piston to valve clearance issues with that cam, additional stroke and stock pistons. I would buy a rotating assembly with new pistons that have reliefs.

Thanks, I was wondering about that. I saw a post earlier where the piston was pushed up out of the block by the crank/rod combination. I figure if I keep digging around on here I’ll find the answers I need. Hell, I can’t do anything for another week or two anyway until the roof is done and paid for. At least then I’ll know how little money I have to spend on my car

Bo White · 08-03-2020, 09:46 PM

Stock pistols can not be reused. Longer stroke will need a shorter piston(3.622 to 4.000) and the longer rod will also call for a shorter piston(6.098 to 6.125).

Bo White · 08-03-2020, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fignewton

Everything I have read says a 4.00 inch stroke with 6.125 inch rods is the max you can go with stock pistons but it seems like none of the crankshaft/rod combos I can find work with stock pistons. This is where my dilemma lies.

Stock block. Anything over 4.000 brings the piston out too far out of the bottom of the stock sleeve for longevity.

Fignewton · 08-04-2020, 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bo White

Stock pistols can not be reused. Longer stroke will need a shorter piston(3.622 to 4.000) and the longer rod will also call for a shorter piston(6.098 to 6.125).

Thanks, That was the kind of information I was looking for.
So would I have to replace the rods and pistons if I went with a forged crank that was stock stroke?

Bo White · 08-04-2020, 07:33 PM

No if your reusing the rods and pistons but while your there might as well go with the whole rotating assembly.

Warship2k15 · 08-09-2020, 06:17 PM

Put a whole new rotating Assy in it and be done.No point in trying to cobble something together.
Just do it right and be done with it.
Unless you have head damage or something else.

Greenhornet2 · 08-10-2020, 12:28 PM

do a stroker forged rotating assembly. Then go FI!

Fignewton · 10-02-2021, 10:53 AM

After over a year of home remodels I finally get to build my engine. I am going to do a 416 stroker kit from Texas Speed. I have no interest in forced induction so that leaves me the question of compression ratio. The kit I'm looking at has -3cc pistons and should give me between 11:1(70cc) and 11.5:1 (65cc). I'm going to have the block decked during machining but it shouldn't take much off. Once it is together I'll have it dyno tuned at Prevatt Automotive.
I think that this setup should be fine since I won't be driving it everyday and I plan on running 91 octane (nobody in Tulsa carries straight gas 93). I don't drag race it but I do play with it and eventually I'll do some autocross and/or track days at Hallett Raceway.

08-01-2020, 11:32 AM	#2
Athletics101 Drives: 5th Gen L99 Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Lake Havasu City Posts: 244	Stroke it but only if your doing the work yourself. If you paying someone’s do it, it might be cheaper to just buying a pre assembled short block. __________________ LSA conversion 2.5 upper 10% lower, L99 converted to LS3. TSP 229/244 cam, TSP LS3 ported and milled heads milled .015,Kooks LT’s no cats, Roto Fab, Borla arak cat back. 3200 stall,Forgestar F14 18’s and drag radials, pedders coil overs, BMR trailing arms & adjustable toe rods, mildly stripped Interior 685/613 on E 610/571 on 91

08-01-2020, 10:36 PM	#3
Black_SS10 SomeguyK Drives: 2010 Black 2SS/RS Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: FL Posts: 1,947	Sure, stroke it. Just be careful on how much. Don't let the pistons come out the hole too much. Piston speed is gonna change. __________________ TMS 427, Dart iron Block, Forged assembly, Frankenstien heads, AGP TT 62/62 BB turbo's, AGP/Fore triple fuel system, Tilton clutch, Holley 1 7/8 shorties, Technostalgia tail lights,Oracle, Aeroforce, MGW shifter,Flowmaster, Pegasus subframe bushings,BMR trailing & toe arms,Z28 UCA bushings,Zl1 rear sway bar,Prothane,BMR,Goodridge brake lines,Ridetech HQ coilovers,3.91,Trutrac,billet caps,DSS axles,HE offest,built TR6060,1LE diffuser,Havoc spoiler,SSclones,20in MRR 017, Pirelli P Zero, Nitto NT555RII More to come.

08-02-2020, 07:32 AM	#6
Clarkstar Drives: 2013 1SS 1LE Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Ixonia wi Posts: 1,456	You may run into piston to valve clearance issues with that cam, additional stroke and stock pistons. I would buy a rotating assembly with new pistons that have reliefs. __________________ 2013 1le- Katech 416 short block, TSP custom grind cam, LOD intake, cnc heads by F.ED., Nick William's 102mm T.B., CORN fed, Pedders coilovers. Performance street alingnment by Justin at Lake Country Alignment and dyno tune by Late Model Throttle. 603 h.p. 495 ft lbs tq.

08-10-2020, 12:28 PM	#13
Greenhornet2 Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS LS3 Whipple Join Date: May 2019 Location: Connecticut Posts: 1,925	do a stroker forged rotating assembly. Then go FI! __________________ Whipple 2.9 CAI ID1050x injectors ZL1 Pump JRE FPCM JMS Voltage booster JRE Rough Idle blower cam BTR .660 springs CHE trunnion kit 1 7/8 Speed Engineering Borla Atak JRE scoop 1.5" lowering springs BMR trailing arms and toe links Cradle inserts 704WHP 603WTQ 93 octane

10-02-2021, 10:53 AM	#14
Fignewton Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma Posts: 65 View My Garage	After over a year of home remodels I finally get to build my engine. I am going to do a 416 stroker kit from Texas Speed. I have no interest in forced induction so that leaves me the question of compression ratio. The kit I'm looking at has -3cc pistons and should give me between 11:1(70cc) and 11.5:1 (65cc). I'm going to have the block decked during machining but it shouldn't take much off. Once it is together I'll have it dyno tuned at Prevatt Automotive. I think that this setup should be fine since I won't be driving it everyday and I plan on running 91 octane (nobody in Tulsa carries straight gas 93). I don't drag race it but I do play with it and eventually I'll do some autocross and/or track days at Hallett Raceway. __________________ Her name is Zellda that way twenty years from now I can tell people about "The Legend of Zellda" Roto-Fab CAI, Comp Cam: 231/242, 113 degree lobe separation, +3 degree advance at .600 lift IN/EX. Melling High Volume Oil Pump, GM Performance Lifters, Rocker Trunion upgrade and Comp Valve Springs, TT Racing Oil Catch Can, Full Tube Headers w/ mid pipes, Cat Delete, Borla S Mufflers, ZL1 Shifter, Mantic 9000 series Twin Disc Clutch, BMR Lowering springs, BMR Toe rods, BMR Trailing arms, Niche Lucerne 20" Wheels, M/T Street Comp 275/40-20 front 275/35-20 rear. Last edited by Fignewton; 10-02-2021 at 06:32 PM. Reason: because I thought of more stuff to add.

08-01-2020, 10:06 AM	#1
Fignewton Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma Posts: 65 View My Garage	Should I stroke my LS? So the number one rod bearing pulled a Houdini on me the engine only has 50k on it and I don’t really want to bore it since the cylinders still have a nice looking cross hatch. So my question is this: is there a stroker crank and rod set that I can use with my stock pistons? OR is there a stroker crank that I can use with stock pistons and rods (I don’t mind replacing just the #1 rod)? You can see all of my mods in my signature line below except the cam specs (231/242 113 degree lobe separation, +3 advance, .600 lift on both intake and exhaust) and I think a stroker crank would work really well with what I have in it now. I don’t really need anymore horsepower but I’ll take it. I just really love the sound of a stroked LS __________________ Her name is Zellda that way twenty years from now I can tell people about "The Legend of Zellda" Roto-Fab CAI, Comp Cam: 231/242, 113 degree lobe separation, +3 degree advance at .600 lift IN/EX. Melling High Volume Oil Pump, GM Performance Lifters, Rocker Trunion upgrade and Comp Valve Springs, TT Racing Oil Catch Can, Full Tube Headers w/ mid pipes, Cat Delete, Borla S Mufflers, ZL1 Shifter, Mantic 9000 series Twin Disc Clutch, BMR Lowering springs, BMR Toe rods, BMR Trailing arms, Niche Lucerne 20" Wheels, M/T Street Comp 275/40-20 front 275/35-20 rear. Last edited by Fignewton; 08-04-2020 at 07:26 PM. Reason: Add info.

08-03-2020, 09:46 PM	#8
Bo White Drives: 2015 Summit White 2SS 1LE Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Vance Alabama Posts: 8,019	Stock pistols can not be reused. Longer stroke will need a shorter piston(3.622 to 4.000) and the longer rod will also call for a shorter piston(6.098 to 6.125).

08-04-2020, 07:33 PM	#11
Bo White Drives: 2015 Summit White 2SS 1LE Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Vance Alabama Posts: 8,019	No if your reusing the rods and pistons but while your there might as well go with the whole rotating assembly.

08-09-2020, 06:17 PM	#12
Warship2k15 Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS Join Date: May 2016 Location: Kissimmee Posts: 158	Put a whole new rotating Assy in it and be done.No point in trying to cobble something together. Just do it right and be done with it. Unless you have head damage or something else.